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Thread: Need help identifying a carburetor.

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
    235

    Default Need help identifying a carburetor.

    I have what looks like an aluminum Street Avenger. Numbers on the choke tower are:
    18172224
    80712
    3534

    Can anyone can verify the CFM?
    I really couldn't find it in the parts list I downloaded.
    Tech support is an over an hour wait, told me to call back and hung up on me, LOL.
    Google had an eBay add that called it a 670 cfm.
    The guy I got it from said it was a 750 cfm.
    I don't know. Help?
    Richard
    1969 C-10 SWB Step
    355 Small Block
    700R4 Trans, 2500 stall & 3.73 gears

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
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    1,544

    Default

    The guy said that because he doesn't know, or guesses 750s sell better. Your carb is 670 Street Avenger. Production date would be 353rd day of 2014. Gary
    Regards, Gary

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
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    235

    Default

    Thank you sir. I figured it was a 670. Either way, I still made out well on the deal. Since they are $470 new, I was at less than half of that on our swap deal. Still looks new.
    Richard
    1969 C-10 SWB Step
    355 Small Block
    700R4 Trans, 2500 stall & 3.73 gears

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
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    Default

    Good to hear you got a good deal. Gary
    Regards, Gary

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
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    Default

    Gary, since this a 2014 carb, and it's obviously been sitting around for a while. I hooked it up and it idles fine, but has a little stumble on tip-in off idle. Typically I would think that's accelerator pump, but I can visually see it dripping gas out of the venturi during the stumble. It revs fine once it stops dripping. It's not a lot of gas, or for very long maybe three seconds worth. In your opinion, would a leaky power valve cause that? I just haven't had a lot of time to mess with it. Was hoping someone could narrow down my search when I do.
    Richard
    1969 C-10 SWB Step
    355 Small Block
    700R4 Trans, 2500 stall & 3.73 gears

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
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    Default

    Any carb sitting for that long needs a kit put through it, including a dip in a acid bath, and/or some carb cleaner blasted through the passages with compressed air. It may well have a lazy power valve. The jetting could be not a match to the engine size.
    What engine is this fitted to now? I would check the air bleeds in the choke tower for foreign particle entry. Gary
    Regards, Gary

  7. #7

    Default

    Not to hijack this thread, but I've used the "carb calculator" that's on the Holley site, and it says I should have no more than a 490 cfm. This is for a 340 c.i. Plymouth. Is this not correct?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Default

    My personal opinion, and many others will agree.
    Depends on few factors, including state of tune.
    A 340 in motorhome is vastly different to a 340 in a strip car.
    A 340 in mild street car can run a 670 vacuum secondary, about 2 cfm per cubic inch.
    You could run a 570 if you are very mild.
    What are your vehicle details, camshaft, compression, weight, differential ratio, etc.? Gary
    Last edited by Gaz64; 07-10-2019 at 08:58 PM.
    Regards, Gary

  9. #9

    Default

    Well, it's in a 1970 Duster, 8.75 rear differential with 3.91s. Compression ratio is stock, Edelbrock heads, 4-speed, XE268 cam. Can't say what the weight is.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Default

    The thread has deviated so it might be better to start a new thread.
    I would be running at least a 670 vacuum secondary.
    There are guys out there running 950DPs on 355s. Gary
    Regards, Gary

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