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Thread: 60-2 Crank Trigger Wheel Kit DISCONTINUED? Now this makes sense.

  1. #1
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    Thumbs down 60-2 Crank Trigger Wheel Kit DISCONTINUED? Now this makes sense.

    I'm making this thread because there needs to be proper disclosure for the people who are wasting entire weekends tuning & troubleshooting a product that is not designed to operate outside of a multitude of conditions. So after going down the rabbit hole and throwing my wallet at my problem twice, I dug up some information on previous threads stating that the 60-2 crank trigger is not suitable for high RPM applications and furthermore in my circumstance externally balanced engines are going to amplify adverse effects on this as well. This is what got my attention searching and troubleshooting.Quoted from another post:

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Yes, I've stated this many times.
    Numerically high count trigger wheels (such as 60-2) usually don't work well on high revving RPM engines.
    Also, it should also be noted that if your engine's horsepower/torque is high enough to "flex" the crankshaft,
    then the 60-2 crank trigger can not be used (due to the sensor's tight air gap being altered out of range).
    If the engine can flex the crankshaft or spins super high RPM, the 4x crank trigger should be used (with Holley's 554-118 Hall-Effect crank sensor).

    Either the sensor air gap is changing under high RPM or the trigger wheel is movinging out of the path of the Hall-Effect sensor.

    You'll likely experience ignition cutting out and seconds later returning to normal.
    Loss of crank signal breaking up and cutting out usually at higher RPM.
    RPM will say "syncing" or "syncng" on Digital Dashes and on datalogs.
    System Logs will show inconsistent crank pulses at higher RPM.
    Issues for me ranged between 6500 & 7500 RPM, yours may vary.

    Possible fixes to retain this equipment (that I have read):
    Fine tune air gap.

    Double up crank trigger wheels.
    DITCH THE 60-2 WHEEL.


    Hopefully this helps anyone running into the same issues with the 60-2 wheel. I do not appreciate how the product was discontinued while consumers are fighting with these issues yet there is no disclaimer on product limitations or known issues on the website. An addendum would be great seeing that they're still selling it. No where on the site or in the instructions does it even brush these issues. In my case, this was the standard BBC trigger kit two years ago when I ordered it. Live & learn.
    Mike Digs
    84 Camaro 25.2C
    548 BBC
    Twin S475
    M5
    850 Billet Atomizers
    Glide

  2. #2

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    WOW!!! That's exactly the same issue we have experienced during last weekends race on our drag race car. We we're searching like idiots and nothing solved the problem. Now this could make sense as we had EXACTLY that issue. Changed sensors, tried different gaps, always the same. BUT it has worked at the first race of the season, that's what we don't understand.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I ran a custom 60-2 crank trigger kit (LINK) for many years on my last Holley Dominator EFI equipped vehicle. It ran perfectly, and never missed a beat. The 60-2 high RPM/high horsepower problems are well documented on this forum for many years. It's the end user's responsibility to choose the proper type of crank trigger kit for their particular engine application. Although I do agree a note could've been posted on the 60-2 crank trigger kit webpages.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #4

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    Thanks Danny. Yes, you're absolutely right, but if you're buying good quality parts like I'd expect Holley to be, and that's why I spent thousands of dollars for their products, you shouldn't have to read Forums before ordering. This makes me angry, but also kind of happy because we didn't really know what caused our problems.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashburner View Post
    Thanks Danny. Yes, you're absolutely right, but if you're buying good quality parts like I'd expect Holley to be...
    It's not a "quality" issue, it's an application issue. Holley's 60-2 crank trigger kit is high quality, and functions perfectly for it's intended application. The 60-2 Kits were discontinued (in favor of 36-1 Kits) due to installation incompetence (long story).

    ...and that's why I spent thousands of dollars for their products, you shouldn't have to read Forums before ordering.
    I didn't read the forum before I decided to install a 60-2 crank trigger kit. I researched its application stipulations (and the crank sensor specifications) beforehand. And I'm the one who first posted the application caveats, due to my research.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #6

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    Will a 36-1 wheel work properly on high horsepower/high RPM engines, or is it really a better idea to go back to a 4x signal wheel?

  7. #7
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    Yes, the 36-1 crank trigger kit will work great for a few reasons (lower tooth count & increased tooth depth for high RPM use, 1/4" thick trigger wheel to prevent misalignment for high horsepower crank flex, better geartooth crank sensor & easier fine thread adjustability). However, the 36-1 crank trigger kit still uses a relatively tight crank sensor air gap (LINK), so if the engine's very high horsepower can flex the crankshaft (possibly sensor/reluctor contact), the 4x crank trigger kit should be considered. Although most big block engines and/or aftermarket racing crankshafts are rigid enough to prevent this.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Crank & Cam Sensor Wiring Tips:
    The 10-pin Ignition Connector has one "Chassis Ground" (loose black wire ground) and two "IPU Grounds" (clean ECU ground). Don't use "Chassis Ground" to ground an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors). It's quick & easy to move the ignition module ground wire from (cavity) pin D "Chassis Ground" to pin C or G "IPU Ground", where it should be.

    If you don't have the actual Metri-Pack terminal release tool, a "safety pin" will work.
    It just needs to be a stiff wire between .030"-.035" in diameter to release the terminal tab.
    Then reopen (bend) the terminal tab before reinsertion, so it will clip (lock) into the cavity.
    http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-6 Micro Terminal Release Pick Tool)

    Also, don't use (cavity) pin E "Switched +12V" from the 10-pin Ignition Connector, to power an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors), unless you've modified the wiring source to connect from pin B20 - EST 12V Output (P1B ECU Connector). This LINK explains why & how to do it.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Sections 2.1 "Pin-Outs" & 13.0 "Wiring Appendix")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    I ran a custom 60-2 crank trigger kit (LINK) for many years on my last Holley Dominator EFI equipped vehicle. It ran perfectly, and never missed a beat.
    We all understand now that OEM & lower revving installations aren't the problem. I've also seen your setup and you are mounted inboard of the balancer. That is ideal and second to being pressed on the crank. These kits all mount to the front of the balancer. Then add a mandrel for fuel pump drive or dry sump and there isnt a snowballs chance in hell that air gap is going to stay consistent IMO.

    The 60-2 high RPM/high horsepower problems are well documented on this forum for many years. It's the end user's responsibility to choose the proper type of crank trigger kit for their particular engine application.
    Danny no offense, but if you're implying that the end user needs to comb through forums to see if something is right for their application that can't be considered reasonable. Holley has a bit of due diligence to do to prevent that. There needs to be application limit parameters detailed in the product description at the very least. At the time I bought mine in 2017 I read the product description and it seemed right for me. I as a consumer, did not know I had to look through the forums to see if this item was going to be reliable for me. If it was suitable for use on a Dominator EFI system wouldn't it likely be subjected to some high rpm/horsepower applications?

    Although I do agree a note could've been posted on the 60-2 crank trigger kit webpages.
    AGREED. I tend to believe Holley is just trying to forget they ever offered this kit sfter all of this research.

    It's not a "quality" issue, it's an application issue. Holley's 60-2 crank trigger kit is high quality, and functions perfectly for it's intended application. The 60-2 Kits were discontinued (in favor of 36-1 Kits) due to installation incompetence (long story).
    The installation incompetence you spoke of earlier seems inaccurate when you consider the end user is basically trying to hit a moving target. (No pun).

    Would Holley consider offering a retrofit for us poor 60-2 bastards to help fix a situation so many people are dealing with? Maybe?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashburner View Post
    Thanks Danny. Yes, you're absolutely right, but if you're buying good quality parts like I'd expect Holley to be, and that's why I spent thousands of dollars for their products, you shouldn't have to read Forums before ordering. This makes me angry, but also kind of happy because we didn't really know what caused our problems.
    I'm beyond happy if this helped someone like you already. I used as many keywords as I could just to save someone some grief cause this issue is not fun to chase. Very defeating I know I packed my car up at the track in a very bad mood after wasting two days chasing the issue. Not to mention disabling rev limiters all kinds of tune parameters just hoping it would go away. But the last part of your message I couldn't agree with more. How was I supposed to know either?

  10. #10

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    It works great for me up to 7500 RPM making 1000+ HP.

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