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Thread: No Spark

  1. #1

    Default No Spark

    Over the past couple months, I’ve been having a harder & harder time starting the car. Before I would just pump the gas once, turn the key and the car started. Then I started having to crank it a couple times before it started. Then it got to the point where I cranked for several minutes and sometimes it would start and other days I just gave up. Now it never starts at all.

    I have the Ready-To-Run distributor for the Ford 289 and MSD coil. I have 12.5V at battery terminals when not starting the car. I have 12.5v at (+) coil with ignition in the On position. I have 10.6V at battery terminals when cranking. I have 10.5V at (+) coil in start position. I also have 10.5V at (-) coil in start position. I also have 10.6V at the “I” post on the starter relay when cranking. I checked the coil and have the correct impedance for primary & secondary windings. I’ve swapped out the battery and the coil and no change. I pulled a plug and looked for spark (with plug grounded) while cranking and I’ve got nothing. Is there a way to test the signal coming from the distributor to the coil or test the ignition module? Thanks.
    Last edited by 65_comet; 05-27-2019 at 07:52 AM. Reason: Clarity

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 65_comet View Post
    Is there a way to test the signal coming from the distributor to the coil or test the ignition module? Thanks.
    https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_pickups.pdf (Scroll down to "Testing", page 2.)
    https://documents.holley.com/frm3356...to_run_add.pdf (Supply Voltage Addendum)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you. Assuming I need to pull distributor out of engine to get to those wires?

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Default

    No, remove cap & rotor and adapter plate.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks Danny. I have the adapter plate off. The wires disappear below through a black U-shaped grommet. Should I be able to pry the piece up?

  6. #6
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    Default

    I'm not familiar with that exact distributor construction. So you better contact MSD Tech Service (LINK) if you're not competent with distributors.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #7

    Default

    It’s the 8352 Ready-To-Run ford distributor. It doesn’t appear I can get to the other end of these wires. Under the bottom plate is the ignition module they plug into. I’ve got an email into tech service as you suggested. Hoping somebody who is familiar with this distributor could weigh in. Been reading as many of the existing posts to figure out how.

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