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Thread: No spark, Ford 2.3L TFI.

  1. #1
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    Default No spark, Ford 2.3L TFI.

    Getting no spark on my Ford 2.3L turbo. New TFI module, cap, etc. Passes the MSD white wire tap test. I'm wondering if I should have it setup a different way in Ignition Parameters? I currently have Ford TFI 8 cylinder selected. Should I be doing a Custom setup for the Ford 2.3L? System Log reads crank signal, but nothing for cam.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4banger View Post
    I'm wondering if I should have it setup a different way in Ignition Parameters? Should I be doing a Custom setup for the Ford 2.3L?
    No, there's only one selection for the Ford TFI application.

    System Log reads crank signal, but nothing for cam.
    A Ford TFI distributor System Log indicates a crank signal, but a flatline cam signal. It will however, indicate a Cam A/D voltage.
    Crank & Cam A/D means Analog To Digital. It's the actual signal voltage. Try charging the battery, if you haven't already.
    The Ford TFI distributor's Hall-Effect PIP sensor is the crank sensor, and the TFI module transmits crank & cam sensor signals.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3
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    It does show the flatline cam signal. Battery is charged. Will check the Cam A/D.
    Well installed another new rotor, seems to be getting spark at the plug. Still not starting.
    You can download the datalog at: http://www.4bangerturbo.com/logs/07211504.SL
    UPDATE: Long story short, I had the injectors set to High Impedance when they are Low Impedance. All good now. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    You're welcome. Thanks for the update.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5
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    Well it kicked for a min or so. Now back to no spark. I purchased the car not running and with an SDS ECU setup. The SDS requires you to drill into the PIP setup. Guessing that's what's bad and causing my intermittent spark issues. I think I have another distributor somewhere, maybe I'll look for it and try it. But I ordered the 36-1 wheel setup someone makes for the 2.3L (PyroPete) and will go from there. Need to look into wiring a connector for cam signal now.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4banger View Post
    The SDS requires you to drill into the PIP setup. Guessing that's what's bad and causing my intermittent spark issues.
    Replace the ignition module with a genuine Ford Motorcraft TFI ignition module.

    But I ordered the 36-1 wheel setup someone makes for the 2.3L (PyroPete) and will go from there.
    EDIT: If installing an aftermarket crank trigger kit, you won't need the TFI ignition module.
    Also, the TFI distributor's Hall-Effect PIP sensor can be converted to a cam sync (LINK).

    Need to look into wiring a connector for cam signal now.
    Just need any three cavity harness connector for +12V, Ground & Signal (LINK).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Replace the ignition module with a genuine Ford Motorcraft TFI ignition module.
    Tried that with no luck. I do have another one laying around I could try, but figured why waste my time as I ordered a wheel to convert it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    If installing an aftermarket crank trigger kit, you won't need the TFI ignition module.
    Also, the TFI distributor's Hall-Effect PIP sensor can be converted to a cam sync (LINK).
    Just need any three cavity harness connector for +12V, Ground & Signal (LINK).
    I'll check out the link. I would love to just get rid of the TFI & related parts. I was thinking of just doing the Untimed Sequential for now, and not using a cam sensor. Was also thinking of drilling my cam gear for a magnet.

  8. #8
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    Hello Danny. Since I plan to convert to LSx coils and a 36-1 wheel setup, which wiring harnesses would you suggest? Will a 558-102 work on a 4 cylinder? I currently have the 558-104 & 558-306. To get the coil pack wiring that would connect to my factory LS1 sub-connectors, would I have to run pins all the way back to the J1b connector?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4banger View Post
    I currently have the 558-104 & 558-306.
    The Holley 558-306 will work just fine for crank & cam sensor wiring. Read step #6 for wiring: http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read Steps #1-#6!)

    To get the coil pack wiring that would connect to my factory LS1 sub-connectors, would I have to run pins all the way back to the J1b connector?
    Yes, a non-LSx main harness is wired like this: LINK.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    If you already have or you're purchasing a new Holley EFI non-LSx main harness:
    The Holley 558-307 CNP main harness is for Holley's Coil-On-Plug smart coils and LSx ignition coils (nine terminated loose wires into J1B).
    If using Holley's 556-112 CNP coils, the Holley 558-318 CNP coil sub-harness is also required (or the Holley 556-128 CNP Big Wire V8 Kit).
    For LSx coils, Holley 558-307 CNP main harness plugs into two GM 12579355 CNP sub-harnesses or Holley 558-321 LSx coil sub-harnesses.
    If you had a Holley EFI LSx main harness, you wouldn't need the Holley 558-307 CNP main harness or the 558-318 CNP coil sub-harness.
    https://www.holley.com/products/igni...nd_components/ (Holley EFI Coil-Near-Plug Ignition Components)
    https://www.holley.com/products/igni.../parts/556-128 (Holley EFI 556-128 Coil-Near-Plug Big Wire V8 Kit)
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/558-117 (Holley EFI 558-117 Universal MPFI Coil-Near-Plug Main Harness)
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/558-118 (Holley EFI 558-118 Ford Universal MPFI Coil-Near-Plug Main Harness)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...3038#post33038 (Detailed Crank Trigger & CNP/DIS Conversion Information & Reasoning)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. #10
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    Hello Danny. Is it possible to use a factory 2-wire Hall-Effect sensor used in some 2.3/2.5 engines from the Ford Ranger? On a side note, for my T/A, do you know of a 3/4" to 12MM adapter for the Hall-Effect sensor? Thanks, Brian

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