Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Fouling Plugs

  1. #1

    Default Fouling Plugs

    438W F1A ProCharger, Holley Dominator, 160 lb/hr injectors, COP, cam sync, crank trigger. Dual WBO2 sensors. I had a base tune to start the car which wasn't an issue, but after letting the car warm up so I could check my fans and top off coolant, the plugs are black soot and I believe start to misfire. I've got my idle area in the Learn Table down to where it's not changing much +/- fuel. Should I turn down the Learn % down a bit it the idle area, or should I start with it running to pull some fuel out of idle area, then change the Learn?

    The air/fuel ratio reading bounces around 13.8 at idle. I've sealed up my collectors and have added locking bolts to most my exhaust e.i. headers/collector. I'm pretty sure I have a good cam/crank signal after doing some System Logs.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,889

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 438wStang View Post
    Should I turn down the Learn % down a bit it the idle area, or should I start with it running to pull some fuel out of idle area, then change the Learn?
    When the Learn Table values stop making significant changes, the ECU is finished self-tuning. You can then Transfer Learning To Base, which then allows you to blend the Fuel Graph so it's smooth. When the engine is tuned & running well, you should decrease the Closed Loop and Learned Compensation Limits % to lock in a good tune.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7370#post47370 (Learn Table - Read this thread, especially posts #2, #6 & #11.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks, I took some good notes from that thread. One more thing, about the Coolant Temp Offset; if my mechanical Auto Meter temp gauge reads 180°F and the reading to the ECU display is 165-170°F, I would then set the offset to 15°F + or - to make up for the difference? Trying to get my fans to come on at the right temp and I've always trusted the Auto Meter gauge for years prior to EFI swap.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,889

    Default

    No, I'd replace the coolant temperature sensor with one that reads correctly. My Holley 534-10 CTS is accurate. I've also heard good reports from using a Standard Motor Products TX3 CTS (LINK & LINK).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Could it be the position they're mounted in the intake? Super Victor intake. The Auto Meter has always been on the front port (pass side) behind the thermostat. The other sensor to ECU is located front port (driver side). I'll grab another sensor to try anyway as well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,889

    Default

    Since they're both in the front coolant crossover, they should read near identical.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #7

    Default

    True enough. I'll try the sensor swap and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for your input.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,889

    Default

    You're welcome.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #9

    Default

    While scrolling through some other threads I saw someone ask Resistor Spark Plugs Vs Non Resistor. What's the difference between them and what effect do they have on the engine? I just checked my plug box and I'm using NGK V-Power "non-resistor" (R5671A-9), should I be switching to Resistor style?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,889

    Default

    You should use resistor type spark plugs with an EFI system, to suppress electrical noise/interference.
    (Unless it's a race only application and the non-resistor plug is the only heat range & dimensions available.)
    Also, certain spark plug wires (such as FireCore50), transmit far less electrical interference than other
    brands (low resistance and impregnated with ferrite molecular compound used to absorb RFI/EMI).
    http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh....php?t=1325290 (Additional Information - Doug F., Chief EFI Engineer @ Holley)
    NGK also offers spark plug resistor caps to use with non-resistor type spark plugs:
    http://www.ngksparkplugs.co.za/produ...resistor-caps/ (NGK Spark Plug Resistor Caps)
    http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/files...lug_Covers.pdf (NGK Spark Plug Resistor Caps)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us