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Thread: Sniper Cutting off with HyperSpark install.

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    Los Angeles
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    399

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    The datalog you took where you are depressing the gas pedal looks fine. I would take a good look at your trigger wires. I would never hook up them to the HEI source. I would always hook them up directly to the ignition switch, and have the Sniper pink 12 volt wire all by itself.

    You need three grounds, engine to chassis, engine to negative battery, and battery to chassis. Having all three of these will help out.

    Also, my understanding of your wiring maybe a little off. You need to have the Sniper directly to the battery negative & positive, and not to a separate positive & negative post that is hooked up to the negative & positive of the battery. It needs to go directly to the battery and not some sort of junction.
    Last edited by RPnova; 04-25-2019 at 05:01 PM.

  2. #22

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    Alright I feel like were making some progress. I was able to completely redo some wiring and made my grounds exactly like that video. I also did as you guys said and moved the sniper and HyperSpark power cables from being connected to the battery cables to being connected directly to the battery posts. I also separated the green and purple cam signal wires from most of the other wires. Started the car and it seems to be doing better. I took a datalog where the problem only occurred once and it seems to look better than previous datalogs. I let it idle for a solid 10 minutes with no problem as well so I'm thinking about driving it tomorrow to see how it does over a longer time. I also tried again to make the problem happen by moving wires and spark plug wires around while its running and by turning radio and fan and headlights on, but I couldn't get the problem to happen intentionally. Also, thank you guys a bunch for explaining data points and how to read the graph more, very helpful. If I understand it correctly, the ECU Config File is automatically saved to the SD card every time it's in the handheld? The only reason I ask is I looked at my Config File that's on the SD card and I remember setting idle timing at 16° but its at 15° on the Config File, also I've got a main rev limiter set at 5800, but it's set at 20000 on the Config File just wondering, but either way I noticed my timing table has much to be desired and is no where near a smooth curve like the fuel graph. How would I go about making a better timing table? With fuel you've got the AFR to look at but with timing I'm not sure how I should go about it especially since you could damage the engine pretty easily with timing. Ive included the datalog and Config File off of the SD if anyone wants to look at what I'm talking about.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  3. #23
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    Oct 2017
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    Los Angeles
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    I'm glad you're making progress. The GCF is not automatically saved to the SD card. You must download it from the ECU in order to view the GCF from your computer via the SD card. Also, I'd let the car get nice & warm, and the let the car idle for 20 to 30 minutes (provided your cooling system is good to make sure the car does not act up and leave you stranded). If it does not act up in that time period I'd say your good to go.

  4. #24

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    OK, success with all of your guys help! I've driven the car for a solid couple weeks with no issues. The thing I did last which seemed to eliminate the problem, was where I went through each plug wire and found that some were arcing only slightly from the wire to the crimped on connector inside the boot. The plug wires are Pertronix wires and are only about a year old, but the upgrade in ignition must have made this issue in a couple of the wires affect the whole EFI unit. I shortened the bad wires and recrimped the terminals and made sure each wire had a good Ohms reading. The problem went away almost completely, so I got some good valve cover mount wire separators so the wires do not even touch the engine and I haven't had the problem happen since and I'm searching for some even better plug wires to fit my application, as these have not worked well with the HyperSpark setup. So in short for anyone having similar issues my EMI problems were produced by faulty or not good enough plug wires for the HyperSpark system. The symptoms were even more amplified due to not grounding the engine & chassis the exact way Holley recommends for its EFI system. Thanks everyone again for the help and success!

  5. #25

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    Excellent news you got it sorted and found the fault (always good).

    I recently changed over to an MSD distributor and needed new plug wires. I went to the local O'Reilly and got a cheap set ($20). Talking to the guy behind the counter he was raving about the quality of the MSD wire sets ($100?). Well now I know my system works, I might just invest some money in a good quality wire set, if anything to avoid future EMI issues like you had. Anybody any feedback on the MSD wires?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,089

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    I've never any problem with MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor spark plug wires. Holley EFI users also have great service with FireCore50 spark plug wires. Also, FireCore50 spark plug wire sets are known to transmit far less electrical interference than others (low resistance and impregnated with ferrite molecular compound used to absorb RFI/EMI).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #27

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    FireCore50 wires are the only thing I use on EFI engines. I'm sure there are other brands that also work, but FireCore50 builds custom wire sets and they usually ship in a couple of days, so I have zero reason to use anything else.

  8. #28

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    I have one doing about the same thing. It started cutting off right after I installed a Pro Billet dist and CD box (MSD). It started fine and ran long enough to start to come down to target idle just shut off. Restart and as it idled below 900 it cut off. It would keep doing this until it reached 160°F or you could hold it above 1000 RPM it would keep running. When it reached 160°F, it ran fine until the next cold start and do it all over. I raised the idle timing to 25° BTDC and leaned the Target AFR for idle and cruise by .5 and it kept running. This time I was about a half mile down the road and it just quit running. It restarted and went a few hundred yards, quit then huge backfire out the exhaust and came back to life. It did that for a couple days and hasn't quit since. Problem now it has started what feels like a lean miss that comes & goes making it surge at light cruise. It also has an intermittent miss at idle. Hard acceleration to WOT, the thing is a beast. I'm lost as to what to try next or what to expect. I've been looking for RFI, but not finding anything there either. Here are the specs: SBC 383 stroker, 9.5 compression, Comp XR270HR cam, aluminum heads with dual-plane and Sniper with timing controlled by computer. '93 C10 SWB, 700R4 and 3.73 rear.

  9. #29

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    JIMBR549 have you tried looking for EMI in the Sniper datalogs?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,089

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    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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