Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31

Thread: Sniper Cutting off with HyperSpark install.

  1. #1

    Unhappy Sniper Cutting off with HyperSpark install.

    I've had great success with my Sniper unit for most of its life so far, and it ran great before. The old setup had an HEI distributor with NO timing control from the Sniper. Recently I decided to upgrade to the HyperSpark so I can control ignition and have my ride run even better. Long story short its been huge frustration. I've called Holley a couple times but figured I'd make a post for some extra insight. Right before I installed the HyperSpark system my TPS on the Sniper went out and was going all over the place with no throttle. I was able to borrow a friends TPS for the time being which fixed the problem. Once I installed the HyperSpark system I turned the car to on position, updated firmware, then went through Wizard to add HyperSpark system. It then asked my to cycle key and the Sniper never came back on. I never even tried to start the engine. I checked fuses and wires and tried updating firmware again but wasn't able to talk to the Sniper through handheld or computer. Eventually sent it to Holley and told them about the TPS as well. They replaced the ECU and said it passed all test but when I got it back the TPS was still messed up. I switched it out for the friends TPS again and redid firmware and Wizard and boom it started right up. After a couple mins it randomly died at idle. I checked timing and it was correct. I took it for a drive and the Sniper randomly goes dead for a split second and comes right back on fine. (Handheld blinks error on all sensors). Turned it off and tried it again and it was fine until a couple mins later and it did it again. I tried unplugging things to diagnose the problem with no avail. After this happened a couple more times I decided to take a datalog and go home. The datalog starts from idle and I make my way home and it cuts out and the engine dies once again. I coast to a stop and stop the datalog and then try and start engine again and now it cuts on and off quick enough where it will barely start and wont even run. when it cuts off it also somehow affects timing because it can backfire when it cuts off for the split second. I couldn't even get it started with moving wires around or anything. I also noticed the Sniper reset some of my settings when it cut out as well. so I got towed home and posted here. I checked the datalog as well( with minimal experience with them), but the odd thing I notice is that the log looks quite odd at the end and I don't see the part where the engine stopped. I installed the HyperSpark following the instructions to the best of my ability. HyperSpark box negative and positive power cables directly connected to battery cables. HyperSpark box red switched and distributor pink switched spliced together and connected to old HEI switched 12V wire. And finally HyperSpark white wire to white wire on Sniper output harness. The extra output harness wires all capped at the end if I need them for future use. The HyperSpark coil I mounted on a bracket that is bolted to the cylinder head so it does not mess with anything else. I also have a separate tachometer connected to the brown tach wire on the Sniper output harness and input #2 yellow wire going to a switch that goes to ground. I've also attached the datalog I talked about. Hopefully someone can help me get her running good again.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2

    Default

    Almost sounds like your losing constant 12V power or a bad ground. Mine went on & off intermittently and the result was not a pure enough 12V source, so I installed all 12V directly to battery and a switch to turn on & off problem solved.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ont. Canada
    Posts
    1,454

    Default

    It looks like you may have some random EMI. Look at your RPM trace. At the end when it shuts off, the trace goes into the negative time scale.

  4. Default

    Your datalog indicates your AFR is unplugged. Check that your WBO2 is connected and functioning. At the negative time periods in your log, the AFR suddenly indicates a reading of 0, then changes to Heating. At the same point in time all external sensors on the Sniper present Hi or Low Errors. TPS shows 533% and 0 RPM. Then they recover 2 or 3 samples later and the AFR returns to unplugged. The datalog presenting a negative time reference indicates the Sniper restarted enough to drop its position in time. (No RTC in the Sniper, but from startup it should maintain a positive time and not revert to negative time.) This is possibly noise, but you could also have a faulty sensor or wiring that might cause the Snipers internal sensor/control voltage rails to dip momentarily. You've indicated a troublesome TPS prior to the ignition system being changed. Can you bench test both the suspect and good TPS with a multimeter to determine if the TPS is genuinely faulty? Or was the TPS symptom the only one observed while other sensors had an issue at the same time?

    As you've recently changed it over, are you able to swap your original ignition system back in to test if the problem remains? (Last thing changed, first thing checked.) But I'd be looking at the unplugged sensors myself. With the new installation, did the coil location change from old? Wiring paths same or changed? Relocate your ignition coil, coil wiring and ignition leads further away from the Sniper housing and any other wiring. Any wiring that does pass close to other wiring should be at 90° to prevent induced voltages. Gary.
    1970 XW Fairmont (presented as a GT Falcon Replica), 351 Cleveland with Aussie 302 2V closed chamber heads. Edelbrock F351 2V dual plane intake manifold. Camtech CT21544 (234/238@050", 570/579lift, 2600-6200rpm quoted range, 110lobes) 1.73:1 roller rockers. AOD Transmission. Ford 9" 3.5 Diff ratio. Pacemaker #PH4050 2v Tri-Y extractors to 2.5" Hi Flow V-Tex merge pipe with dual 2.5" exhaust through Hooker Aero Chamber Mufflers. Holley Sniper EFI 4150 Super Sniper 650 with HyperSpark Ignition.

  5. #5

    Default

    The datalog clearly indicates you have EMI issues. Any time you see negative values on the time axis, that is EMI. Likely what happened is when you installed the HyperSpark you moved some wiring around so while you may not have had EMI before, you do now. When you have EMI like that it can cause all sorts of false readings from your sensors which explains the TPS & WBO2 anomalies. Also, the ECU resets itself like a reboot almost which explains the stalling.

    To troubleshoot, start with the basics. Grounding is often a big issue. You MUST have a ground cable running directly from the engine block to the battery. You also want a ground from the engine to chassis and battery to body. This will greatly cut down on EMI. Next, the Sniper positive and negative must go directly to the battery.

    Tell us how you wired your 12V trigger wires? When you added the HyperSpark that added a trigger for the CD box and a trigger to the distributor. How those are wired can really affect things. Best practice is to power those and the Sniper pink trigger via relay. I have all three of mine stacked on a single relay. It works but it is even better if you can separate the Sniper trigger on its own relay. Next, try to keep your coil, coil wire and spark plug wires away from the ECU and the Sniper wiring. Where did you mount the HyperSpark coil? You're on the right track to getting things resolved. It will just take a little time with the wiring.

  6. #6

    Default

    Best policy with a Sniper is to keep all ignition related wires on one end of the engine and run the Sniper wires off the other end of the engine. Keep everything as far as way from each other as possible. Use dedicated power lines for the Sniper. The instructions say all of this, but a lot of people don't seem to understand that it's critical. Many of the Sniper problems reported on this forum are actually caused the user not following the instructions when wiring up the Sniper. It's probably the most common error on the forum.

  7. #7

    Default

    Alright I was able to try it again today. Before I even connected the battery back up I went over the power wires and grounds making sure there was no resistance between battery terminals and the plug that goes into sniper and the same for the HyperSpark. I made sure coil wires were not close to anything and I took my white RPM coming from the Sniper to the HyperSpark and made it so it was not close to anything else. I forgot to mention in my previous post that the WBO2 sensor was unplugged for the datalog. I had it unplugged to make sure it was not shorting internally and causing the Sniper voltage to drop. And for the TPS sensor how exactly would you check them individually to make sure they are working? When the original TPS was acting up it was well before I made the switch to the HyperSpark. When I was moving wires around and out of the way i did find that the Sniper coil negative wire was still spliced into the tach wire from long ago, so I capped the coil wire to make sure it wasn't connected to anything anymore. I started it and it started pretty well but the Sniper started dying after about 30 seconds of idling. After that it would constantly cut off & on to where it would barely or not even start and I took a datalog of this if it's needed. I then made sure my switched 12V wires to HyperSpark and Sniper were good by temporarily running them directly to the battery and I had the same problem. I noted that the Sniper will not cut off and on with just power on, it only does it when engine is rotating. So I disconnected the HyperSpark box and cranked the engine and didn't cut on and off at all. I then connected the HyperSpark box and disconnected RPM signal from Sniper and no problem again. So it only will cut off and on when the ignition is running. The ignition box LED never goes red either which is good. So overall no change still.

  8. #8

    Default

    Gregs69rs, I have the Sniper 12V switched wire going to ignition key, and the CD box and distributor 12V switched wires are spliced together and are fed via a relay. I tried running all three switched 12V wires directly to battery to make sure they are all getting good power and there was no change. The coil is mounted to the front of the cylinder head and the closest thing to the ECU is the distributor itself.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ont. Canada
    Posts
    1,454

    Default

    Measure the alternator for AC output. And run the engine with the belt off and the alternator disconnected.

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks for the updates Jesse. What about your battery grounds? Can't emphasize enough how important it is to have a heavy ground cable direct from the battery to the engine block.

    I did not have good luck with the Sniper switched wire going to the ignition terminal in the fuse box. I'd recommend moving it back to the relay. Also, not sure I understand what you mean by "I noted that the Sniper will not cut off & on with just power on, it only does it when engine is rotating." If you turn the key to the run position does the system not boot up & prime?

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us