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Thread: Wheelie Control

  1. #1

    Default Wheelie Control

    Does anyone have experience using a Banner Engineering infrared distance sensor for wheelie control? Same sensor as sold by Racepak. The sensor is 0-10V output, I hear that it would be fine for a 5V input. Looking for wiring and setup tips.

  2. #2
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    If it's a 0-10V signal output, then you'd use the 20 Volt Type Input in the Inputs/Outputs ICF.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #3

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    I'm interested in this as well. Is this the correct sensor? Q4XFULAF310-Q8

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    If it's a 0-10V signal output, then you'd use the 20 Volt Type Input in the Inputs/Outputs ICF.
    Would I just do a Custom 20V input and scale it to 10V max?

  5. #5
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    Yes, the Custom 20V is for anything over 5V. The Calibration Table information is what you need from the manufacturer's sensor/module instructions.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  6. #6

    Default

    This sensor has 5 wires. Looking to make sure I have it wired correctly:
    12V power
    Common ground
    Analog output 0-10V
    Analog ground
    Shield ground

    12V power went to a clean switched source.
    Common ground went to battery.
    Analog output 0-10V went to custom 20V input.
    Analog ground went to ECU sensor ground J2A A22.
    Does the shield ground go to the ECU or just a battery ground?

  7. #7

    Default

    Hi there. I'm just wondering if you've gotten this sensor to work yet?
    I'm wiring mine up as we speak, and there's only four wires in the connector/pigtail:
    Brown #1 positive
    White #2 analog out
    Blue #3 negative
    Black #4 analog ground
    The screw connector supplied does not have a contact in the 5th cavity to utilize the #5 pin in the sensor.
    Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

  8. #8

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    Here's an idea of how you'd setup the timing pull table.


  9. #9

    Default

    A bit of advice. I don't have a chassis height sensor, but I have a friend that does. Not sure where yours is mounted, but after testing on an F-body the transmission crossmember was found to be the sweet spot. Too far forward the sensor becomes too twitchy. Moving it back gives better “resolution” if you will. He swears by the sensor and has been pretty successful since getting it straightened out.

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