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Thread: New HP EFI engine, not starting, no spark.

  1. #1

    Default New HP EFI engine, not starting, no spark.

    Hello I'm a first time HP-EFI user and having a no start as result of no spark. I have already verified a lot so believe I am likely missing something in my calibration. I'll start with the application details and follow with the calibration, log files, and checks I have made. hopefully someone will see the error of my ways...

    Marine, Berkeley jet application
    - Twin turbo with internal waste gate, not boost controlled by ECU
    - Draw-through throttle body feeding the compressor inlets
    - Compressor outlets to aftercooler (water to air) mounted on 4 barrel intake
    - Water jacketed exhaust manifolds, custom turbo adapters including WBO2 ports, water cooled exhaust elbows, exiting through transom tips with removable mufflers

    Crate motor: LSx 376 B15
    GM sensors included on crate motor:
    - Crank – 58 pulse
    - Cam – 4 pulse
    - Knock – 2 wire, 2 sensors
    - CTS – 2 wire
    - OPS – 2wire
    Plugs: AC Delco 12621258 included with crate motor
    Control system: HP EFI H550-607N
    Coils: MSD82648 LS truck coil
    Plug wires: MSD LS custom
    Throttle body: Holley EFI P/N 112-587, 4-barrel style
    Per the datasheet:
    - IAC – Chrysler style
    - MAT – GM Style
    - TPS – typical 0-5V
    Other sensor & gauges:
    - Holley MAP 0-3.5bar 510-554-134
    - Holley fuel pressure 0-1bar 510-554-102
    - Tach driven by ECU, blue w/ white wire
    - Speedo, GPS
    - Loose sensors driving analog gauges: oil, temp, fuel level
    - Boost: mechanical gauge
    - Volt gauge connected to key on
    Intake: Holley P/N 300-136
    Injectors: Bosch EV6
    Fuel system:
    - Primary water separating filter upstream of the fuel pump
    - Fuel pump: Earl’s 1200890ERL
    - Regulator: Earl’s 12846ERL, with intake reference
    - Filter: Earl’s 162-554

    Wiring details:
    Main harness: 271R962A
    - A few modifications made to relocate connectors
    o Mostly removing the looming, repositioning the connectors, looming and taping
    o A few wires were cut in the process and reassembled with solder and heat shrink
    Power harness is connected directly to the battery positive and negative
    - Positive is fused at the battery
    Loose leads:
    - 12V Switched (red/w) - is powered by a dedicated relay
    o The key switch is low current and drives a few relays and dash lights, one of the relays being the switched power to ECU
    - Relay Ground (black) - is connected to a ground buss – bus is wired directly to the battery with ~24” # 10 wire
    - 12V Battery (red) - is connected to a bus which also provides power to the fuel pump, the bus is wired to the battery with ~24” #10 wire
    - 12V Fuel Pump (green) - drives a fuel pump relay
    - Tachometer (blue/w) – connects to tach
    Starter connections:
    - Engine ground is ~ 12” 2/0
    - Starter positive is ~ 36” 2/0
    A separate harness provides connections for the analog gauges, starter crank signal, and aftercooler pump

  2. #2


    Guess I need to figure how to upload the Cal and log files.

    Here is what I have checked so far. since all sensors are giving reasonable values and I see cam and crank signals in the system log I have been focusing on the wiring.
    Here is what I have tried. I have reset the TPS as required and verified that I get a valid TPS signal.

    Disconnected the battery for over 30 min with my desired cal (LSx ignition) – No spark
    Reflashed the Version 5 firmware
    Tried desired cal – No spark
    Tried cal with custom ignition without knock and cam sensors – three variant (EST 5V, DIS waste-fire, DIS Coil-On-Plug) – No spark

    I checked the system log:
    - Speed, crank, cam all look good
    o Speed may look a bit odd as # 8 plug is out.
    - The only thing fishy is the EST Spout is staying at zero
    o The tach is coming off zero but looks low, however hard to tell as only 200 RPM/div scale
    Here are the interesting voltages:
    Battery AGM:
    - 12.2V Key-off
    - 12.0V Key-on fuel pump running
    - 12.1V Key-on fuel pump off
    - 10.8V Cranking
    The switched power (red/white)
    - 0V Key-off
    - 12.0V Key-on fuel pump running
    - 12.1V Key-on fuel pump off
    - 10.6V Cranking
    Injector/coil/FP relay (red) - this is connected to a bus which also powers the fuel pump
    - 12.2V Key-off
    - 11.8V Key-on fuel pump running
    - 12.1V Key-on fuel pump off
    - 10.6V Cranking
    - I also dedicated a wire directly to the battery and still no start
    The fuel pump (green)
    - 11.7V Key-on fuel pump running
    - 0V Key-on fuel pump off
    - 10.5V Cranking

  3. #3


    Holley checked out the ECU and did not find any issues. I checked (Ohms tested) the P1B to: injector, IAC, and odd & even coil connectors - all connections are per the wiring diagram. I ran dedicated 10 AWG ground wires from my block ground connection to the coil harness connections on the heads. The block ground has a short 2/O connection directly to the battery negative. Any help how to upload the cal file and log files?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009


    Quote Originally Posted by Sutphen View Post
    Any help how to upload the cal file and log files?
    Read first paragraph: (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read Steps #1-#6!)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

  6. #6


    I resolved this issue. It was the coil sub-harnesses. LS1 & LS2 are pin-outs are mirror images. Re-pinned the harnesses and now all is well.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	LS1 vs LS2 coil.jpg 
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