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Thread: 55 Tbird, AOD Transmission, Stalling at stopping

  1. #61
    msdtech1955 Guest

    Default 55 Tbird, AOD Transmission, Stalling at stopping

    also, updating that distributor so you can control timing and fuel , just like a modern car does .....this distributor update would really help idle and decel with your set-up. Remember, controlling all variables for better results ( fuel -air-timing) .









    question , why are you trying to adjust that idle to "factory specs" ? remember , back in 55 ..that motor can equipped with a smaller cfm carb....where as the atomic is 970 cfm .



    So , realistically...that motor will not idle @ 700 rpms.









    msdforms@msdperformance.com







    Latitude: 31.730125
    Longitude: -106.29673








  2. #62

    Default 55 Tbird, AOD Transmission, Stalling at stopping

    MSDTech1955 wrote:

    also, updating that distributor so you can control timing and fuel , just like a modern car does .....this distributor update would really help idle and decel with your set-up. Remember, controlling all variables for better results ( fuel -air-timing) .









    question , why are you trying to adjust that idle to "factory specs" ? remember , back in 55 ..that motor can equipped with a smaller cfm carb....where as the atomic is 970 cfm .



    So , realistically...that motor will not idle @ 700 rpms.





    I have noted often that the car runs a Mallory distributor as it provides a tach drive for the cable driven tach. Msd offers a dizzy for this engine, but no tach drive.

    At one time I thought that a adapter box was available that converted electronic signals from the coil/dizzy to cable just for this reason. However unable to find such.



    Have considered replacing tach with a 'face modification' tach that would permit Msd dist. Trying to maintain stock appearance of the car. Atomic pretty much fulfills that role.

    I do agree with your statement that Msd at 970 cfm is substantially a better breather than the old Holley. However 970 cfm is at full throttle with an engine with the cubic inches, cam , intake, and heads to allow, not at idle where the issue exists.

    It appears that I have missed the section of marketing info or technical data documentation that suggests that I should not expect car to idle at 700 rpm. Are you now suggesting that Atomic will not duplicate the performance of a 50 year old 'teapot' Holley carb in idle characteristics? I suspect that attention to firmware/software could deal with this.







    msdforms@msdperformance.com







    Latitude: 31.730125
    Longitude: -106.29673








  3. #63

    Default 55 Tbird, AOD Transmission, Stalling at stopping

    I have not read through this thread for a while but I just went back to the beginning and noted two things.

    1. You are quite the rude SOB on a forum designed to offer help.

    2. you have never stated your end goals.

    I can say that after reading the entire thread again, I understand the frustration and I don't think expecting the system to at least run as well as a stock carb is out of line. That said, it's not a stock carb and many of the systems on this vehicle will never work correctly unless you upgrade or modify them to work with the Atomic.

    The fact that the firmware update helped is wonderful news, however the way that you presented this SUCKS. You are or were a programmer so you know that stuff happens and you can't get it right every time. Personally as I've said in many of these threads, I don't upgrade the software until I have a need and even then I don't use the latest unless there is a feature I can't live without. I have been working as a systems, network and now datacenter admin for over 30 years and can promise everyone here that this is the most sane method of attacking updates/upgrades.

    Now back to the thread.
    The tach drive is a nice to have in my opinion. Cable driven tach's have not been made in quite some time due to constant failure. This fact alone makes avoiding a distributor upgrade in order to preserve this "feature" a bit odd. I understand that you did not choose the Atomic but since this is in place I would figure that you would want it to perform the best it possibly can. If I had the ability to update one simple thing in my car (simple for me, I suppose would be better since I don't know or assume anything on your ability) to get my motor running more user friendly and perhaps better than ever before, I would already be under the hood. A retro tach is so common these days that there are companies all over the place that can convert your tactile tach to an electronic one.

    I don't see where anyone answered your question about idle speed settings here either. I cannot speak for the as designed spec but I can say that I noted that my settings on the dash are very close if not exactly what my car does in gear after it is up to operating temps. So I assume (yeah I know) that is the target condition of the idle setting. So assuming this is as designed it sounds like your car is doing what it is supposed to do. I can tell you that, much like your configuration and results, when my atomic did not control my timing, I had issues of surging and an apparent seeking to reach my set idle. I changed to the Atomic controlling timing and the car was much smoother, no surging, no more idle or off idle quality issues and it was a pleasure to get in and go. I have heard this to be the case with many of the people on this forum as well. So much so that when I install these for others, I don't even tell them there is the option to not allow the Atomic to control timing.

    The only other thing that stands out to me and I don't believe this is what is going on but it sounds this way in your posts, is that you state you adjust the blades for idle settings. I assume you are really adjusting for proper IAC and then adjusting the handheld for idle targets and not really watching a tach while adjusting the butterflies like you would on a carb. If this assumption is not right, then there are additional comprehension issues here.

    I can tell you from experience here that the guys at MSD, Joe, Vic, JD and the rest have one goal in mind. That is just to do what is needed to make their product the best it can be and hopefully enable older cars to perform like an off the showroom model. A daunting task when people only want to use part of the system.

    We can't tell you what to do with your car. We can only convey our experiences and tell you what has worked for us.

    I think some of the answers that you are looking for are a bit on the conceptual level at times and maybe not on the level of the support guys.

    I suggest you do as you said and once the weather breaks put a couple hundred miles on it in mixed traffic condition and see what kind of performance you see. If it is acceptable or at least close to what you want. If not I see two choices at this point. Remove the Atomic and install a carb, or change the distributor and let Atomic work its magic. In either case there is investment. On what is your choice but from my point of view, I would much rather be driving my car then fighting a system that could be better for so long. How you get there......up to you.

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