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Thread: 30 minute drive then stalls

  1. #1

    Default 30 minute drive then stalls

    I've had the Atomic EFI installed for several months but it hasn't had more than 50 miles put on it in that time. The system is installed as a return-less PWM located externally below tank level about two feet from tank. The engine is a 327ci, mild cam, automatic in a '65 Corvette. Ignition is a MSD 6AL connected to a protronix ignitor in the stock tack-drive distributor (no points). I've used this exact ignition for years in a '66 427 Corvette on the mainland with no issues. I do not have timing control installed, vacuum advance is currently blocked off (need the proper fitting for ported vacuum). Advance is set at idle around 12 degrees BTDC.



    My symptoms are: the car starts and runs fine for 30 minutes/miles or so and maintains engine temps between 180 and 200 degrees F. When I slow down at that point the engine "starves" and the effect is loss of fuel delivery. I don't have the extension for the handheld so can't say whether or not the fuel pump has shut down or not (it sure acts that way). I'll roll to a stop and can turn the ignition on and hear the pump come up to pressure. But, starting is impossible until everything cools down below 150 degrees. Wait times between system failure and ability to restart range between 1 and 2 hours. Then the condition will repeat itself within another 20 miles. My last planned 1-hour drive took closer to 5 hours with plenty of time sitting on the shoulder of the road. Starvation conditions seem to worsen if I get stuck in traffic under 45 mph. I think at higher speeds I'm pushing enough fuel through to keep things cooled off and probably airflow keeps the road temps from affecting the pump temperature as much.



    Driving temperatures here in Hawaii (the Big Island) are between 70 and 84 degrees F. The last drive was closer to 75 degrees when the system shutdown.

    I think my options are 1) put the pump in the tank, 2) switch to a return system and away from PWM, and 3) do both.



    If I switch to an in-tank pump, what have you found to be the best, most reliable choice?



    All recommendations welcome.



    TAP...

  2. #2

    Default 30 minute drive then stalls

    Nice ride TAP:

    You won't regret going with a return set-up and mounting the pump in the tank. I went with the Aeromotive Stealth in tank set up as I wanted to use the original tank. Very happy I did.

    As far as the timing, again, you would be happy with allowing the Atomic to control all of your timing curves... It's awesome!!



    Good Luck...

  3. #3

    Default 30 minute drive then stalls

    TAP... wrote:

    I've had the Atomic EFI installed for several months but it hasn't had more than 50 miles put on it in that time. The system is installed as a return-less PWM located externally below tank level about two feet from tank. The engine is a 327ci, mild cam, automatic in a '65 Corvette. Ignition is a MSD 6AL connected to a protronix ignitor in the stock tack-drive distributor (no points). I've used this exact ignition for years in a '66 427 Corvette on the mainland with no issues. I do not have timing control installed, vacuum advance is currently blocked off (need the proper fitting for ported vacuum). Advance is set at idle around 12 degrees BTDC.



    My symptoms are: the car starts and runs fine for 30 minutes/miles or so and maintains engine temps between 180 and 200 degrees F. When I slow down at that point the engine "starves" and the effect is loss of fuel delivery. I don't have the extension for the handheld so can't say whether or not the fuel pump has shut down or not (it sure acts that way). I'll roll to a stop and can turn the ignition on and hear the pump come up to pressure. But, starting is impossible until everything cools down below 150 degrees. Wait times between system failure and ability to restart range between 1 and 2 hours. Then the condition will repeat itself within another 20 miles. My last planned 1-hour drive took closer to 5 hours with plenty of time sitting on the shoulder of the road. Starvation conditions seem to worsen if I get stuck in traffic under 45 mph. I think at higher speeds I'm pushing enough fuel through to keep things cooled off and probably airflow keeps the road temps from affecting the pump temperature as much.



    Driving temperatures here in Hawaii (the Big Island) are between 70 and 84 degrees F. The last drive was closer to 75 degrees when the system shutdown.

    I think my options are 1) put the pump in the tank, 2) switch to a return system and away from PWM, and 3) do both.



    If I switch to an in-tank pump, what have you found to be the best, most reliable choice?



    All recommendations welcome.



    TAP...

    My first recommendation would be to not use ported vacuum for the vacuum advance. Use manifold vacuum (full time). Read this: (Especially the part about ported vacuum near the end. http://www.camaros.org/pdf/timing101.pdf

    If you hear the fuel pump when you try to start it, then it probably is working. You can check by turning on the key, and then, since you don't have the extension cable, you could get out and look at the fuel pressure status on the hand held. You should see some fuel pressure.

    Often, ignition coils fail when they get hot, but work again when they cool down. That would be high on my list of things to check.

    Good Luck!

    Gerry

  4. #4

    Default 30 minute drive then stalls

    Tap,

    The pump supplied with the Atomic Master Kit is submersible. Aeromotive offers a universal in-tank pump mount kit. You may use the Atomic fuel pump with this kit.

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