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Thread: New install running very rich.

  1. #1

    Default New install running very rich.

    The AF ratio dances a lot, but typically higher than target towards the lean side, so I think the system is over compensating with fuel, but I'm not sure what is going on. This is a big 482FE dynoed at 594HP...it starts right up and idles as it did with a carb, but it's just spewing black and I stink more than normal...so my wife says.

    My headers are crossover style for Ford GT40, so there's collectors with 4 pipes slip fit. I took the collector off and expanded slightly the tubes to make a tighter seal and used sensor safe, hi-temp sealer to really ensure there weren't any leaks from what I can tell and I don't sense a difference in the rich issue. I am running open pipes with the end being approximately two feet from the WBO2 sensor. Really hoping to get this sorted as this is a lot of time and expense to go backwards.
    Last edited by BigB; 03-26-2013 at 01:32 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigB View Post
    It starts right up and idles as it did with a carb, but it's just spewing black...
    Yes, bellowing black smoke out the exhaust is way too rich.
    Is this only happening at idle and low RPM?
    Also, is the ignition timing synchronized?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ing-Holley-EFI (Synchronizing Ignition Timing)

    I took the collector off and expanded slightly the tubes to make a tighter seal and used sensor safe, hi-temp sealer to really ensure there weren't any leaks...
    Yes, ensure there aren't any exhaust leaks upstream of the WBO2 sensor.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ist-Holley-EFI (EFI Troubleshooting Checklist)

    I am running open pipes with the end being approximately two feet from the WBO2 sensor.
    This is most likely the problem. At idle & low RPM, the WBO2 sensor is reading a false lean condition from being near an open exhaust pipe. This is worse with large race camshafts due to their significant amount of overlap.

    To rectify this, enter Closed Loop Parameters (in System Parameters), and set the "Enable RPM to Enter Closed Loop" high enough to ignore this condition (if using a laptop). You'll then need to manually tune the idle area in Open Loop mode.

    If using the Avenger's hand-held controller, enter the Closed Loop parameters and adjust the "RPM Activation" setting.
    http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...9R10505rev.pdf (Avenger's hand-held controller instructions - read section 20.2.4.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the response. A couple of things I figured out before it started raining again here in the Seattle area...

    You're right about the WBO2 sensor being too close to the end of the pipe...get up enough exhaust speed and the AFR stops dancing around.

    Another problem was my fuel pressure at 23 psi but ECU at 21 psi...though I have not yet been able to test that change or initial closed loop starting around 1400 RPMs. Thanks again for the help.

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