If your crank or cam sync unit isn't transmitting a signal, troubleshoot the cam sensor, wiring, reference voltage & ground, reluctor,
alignment, air gap (LINK), radial run-out problems (LINK), etc. If a regular datalog indicates an "RPM Error" when scrolling through
the problem area, then it's time for a System Log to confirm which sensor flatlines. FYI: Crank & Cam A/D means Analog To Digital.
It's not the +5V reference supply voltage. Troubleshooting 3-wire Hall-Effect sensors:
http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint3_1.pdf (Understanding/Troubleshooting Hall-Effect Sensors - "Troubleshooting", Page 2)
Record a System Log to verify crank & cam sensor signals. Check mark the "RPM", "Crank" & "Cam" channels. Look for a uniform,
uninterrupted crank or cam sensor signal pattern. The crank or cam sensor signal should never flatline (no pulse) or indicate an
RPM "Error" anywhere. Also, fully charge the battery and ensure the engine is cranking fast enough, at least 100+ RPM. Another
common issue, is trying to analyze a compressed view of a long System Log. Zoom In for detail - click & hold at one point of the
datalog, and drag & release to another point nearby. It's best to record short System Logs/Datalogs that capture the problem.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....s-amp-Datalogs (Datalog & System Log Information)
Originally Posted by Holley "Help" Contents
Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
This information above, is also found in the Holley EFI software; click on "Help", "Contents" & "Crank & Cam Sensor Setup".
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....=7592#post7592 (Datalog & System Log Information)
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...__statuses.pdf (Sensor Diagnostics & Statuses)
http://documents.holley.com/crank-camsensorreq.pdf (Crank & Cam Sensor Requirements)
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...re/CamSync.jpg (Pictorial diagram of a 4x crank trigger and 1x cam sync.)
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...0#post26386690 (Incorrect Digital Falling Signals - 4x Crank & 1x Cam)
http://documents.holley.com/199r10898.pdf (Holley EFI 36-1 Crank Trigger Kit Instructions)
http://documents.holley.com/199r10562.pdf (Holley EFI 60-2 Crank Trigger Kit Instructions)
http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint3_1.pdf (Understanding/Troubleshooting Hall-Effect Sensors - "Troubleshooting", Page 2)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ons-Holley-EFI (FAST Dual Sync Distributor Wiring & Setup Instructions)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....nition-Harness (Cadillac Northstar Ignition/Coil Pack Wiring)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7990#post47990 (Wiring Modification To Pin B20, "EST +12V Output")
Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
The following information is only if you decide to put timing marks on the damper (#1 cylinder TDC identification & 30° example):
If necessary, use a spark plug hole type piston stop & degree wheel to first establish TDC, then make a damper mark at 30°.
FYI: This procedure can also be used to correctly install/position a crank trigger kit/cam sync unit at 60°, 180°, 195°, etc. (Link).
If using spark plug type piston stop, some people remove rocker arms from #1 cylinder to avoid the risk of valves contacting tool.
Also, remove all spark plugs for easy turning force (no compression) to prevent damage from harsh piston-to-tool contact.
There's nothing wrong with installing a timing tape. Just ensure it's the correct one for your diameter damper.
You don't necessarily need a timing tape, because both timing synchronizations can be performed with one timing mark.
Multiply the damper diameter by 3.14159 (Pi), then divide by 360°. The answer is the distance in inches for one degree.
For a 30° timing mark, multiply this value by 30. Cut out this distance on a strip of paper to avoid a straight line measurement.This is the difference between "Digital Falling" and "Digital Rising". Digital Falling is much preferred:Originally Posted by Holley New ECU Documentation
I've data logged the difference on the same Hall-Effect sensor, and Digital Rising had RPM errors.
Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
Just some reference notes pertaining to crank trigger adjustments:
The crank sensor sliding bracket, now does the task that turning the distributor once did.
With a crank trigger, turning the distributor only adjusts rotor phasing.
MSD has a good video on why rotor phasing is important:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM (MSD Tech - Rotor Phasing Video)
http://documents.msdperformance.com/8644_tb.pdf (MSD Rotor Phasing Document)
Excerpt from Holley EFI manual:
NOTE - It is not advised to use a magnetic pickup distributor to directly feed the magnetic trigger input of the ECU. If the
magnetic pickup distributor is connected to the ECU via the inductive pickup trigger wires, the pickup/rotor/cap phasing
must be corrected. This operation may require a phaseable cap or rotor or possibly machining to the distributor and is
therefore beyond the scope of most users. Even with the phasing corrected, the electrical noise inside the cap
(due to the high voltage cap & rotor terminals) may be strong enough to cause electrical noise interference.
It is advised to use a crank trigger system or a computer-controlled distributor.
Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
Ignition Timing Cylinder Sequence Verification
Ensure the Firing Order is entered correctly in Ignition Parameters (System ICF).
Before the initial start, disconnect the fuel injector harness and verify
at least, the first four cylinders in the firing order using a timing light.
If your cylinders are firing in 90° intervals BUT in the wrong sequence,
the coil harness is connected wrong (at the ECU or at the coil packs).
Hopefully you have a fully degreed balancer or at least markings every 90°:
1st cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 0° (or 15° - add whatever your cranking timing is)
2nd cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 270° (or 285° - cranking timing added)
3rd cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 180° (or 195° - cranking timing added)
4th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 90° (or 105° - cranking timing added)
5th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 0° (or 15° - cranking timing added)
6th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 270° (or 285° - cranking timing added)
7th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 180° (or 195° - cranking timing added)
8th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 90° (or 105° - cranking timing added)