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Thread: Magnetic & Hall-Effect Crank/Cam Sensor Setup

  1. #111
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    The Holley EFI WBO2 sensors are already equipped with them: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...ension-Harness (Holley EFI WBO2 Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, R134a A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  2. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by APDAUS View Post
    You got me there, please explain the Calibration Resistors and where they wire in.
    On my NTK WBO2 sensor, the resistors were wired less than 2" from the connector. Just make sure you don't "accidentally" discard them when wiring a new connector.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Seven wire NTK WBO2 sensor connector:
    A...blue
    B...yellow
    C...brown - Calibration resistor in a shell, 2" down from connector. (Early NTK sensors had a shorter harness without these two brown wires.)
    D...brown - Calibration resistor in a shell, 2" down from connector. (Early NTK sensors had a shorter harness without these two brown wires.)
    E...black
    F...white
    G...gray
    H...(not used)

  3. #113

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    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to wire from the 554-100 sensor to the J1A plug, so hopefully a simple process.

  4. #114

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    Quote Originally Posted by APDAUS View Post
    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to wire from the 554-100 sensor to the J1A plug, so hopefully a simple process.
    Another Dominator EFI Pin-Out Question. J1A pin 28, it's described on the documentation as "EST/Spout Output". First, can I have the definition of that EST? Spout output? I'm hoping to use this pin-out to +12V power crank & cam sensors. Am I correct in this broad assumption?

  5. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by APDAUS View Post
    First, can I have the definition of that EST? Spout Output?
    EST - Electronic Spark Timing. Spout Output, Google it. It's different for various engine models.

    I'm hoping to use this pin-out to +12V power crank & cam sensors. Am I correct in this broad assumption?
    No, that's pin J1B-B20 & J2B-B20, EST 12V Output (LINK).

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Crank & Cam Sensor Wiring Tips:
    The 10-pin Ignition Connector has one "Chassis Ground" (loose black wire ground) and two "IPU Grounds" (clean ECU ground).
    Don't use "Chassis Ground" to ground an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors). It's quick & easy to move the ignition
    module ground wire from (cavity) pin D "Chassis Ground" to pin C or G "IPU Ground", where it should be.

    If you don't have the actual Metri-Pack terminal release tool, a "safety pin" will work.
    It just needs to be a stiff wire between .030"-.035" in diameter to release the terminal tab.
    Then reopen (bend) the terminal tab before reinsertion, so it will clip (lock) into the cavity.
    http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-6 Micro Terminal Release Pick Tool)

    Also, don't use (cavity) pin E "Switched +12V" from the 10-pin Ignition Connector, to power an ignition module
    (or crank & cam sensors), unless you've modified the wiring source to connect from pin B20 - EST 12V Output
    (P1B ECU Connector). This LINK explains why & how to do it.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Sections 2.1 "Pin-Outs" & 13.0 "Wiring Appendix")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, R134a A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  6. #116

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    Thank you. Also, do you think it's wise to use the J1-B20 to also power the CAN plug I'm wiring in, or just leave a clean +12V ECU source for the crank & cam sensors?

  7. #117
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    As I stated in my last post, the Dominator ECU has two B20 EST 12V Outputs, so use one for your crank & cam sensors.

  8. #118

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    Thanks for your help Danny. I appreciate it. I was only planning to use plugs J1A & J1B at this stage and one wideband O2 sensor. I'm aware of the J2 set +12V option. I want the car to be interchangeable with a HP ecu for testing, etc.
    Last edited by APDAUS; 07-27-2021 at 10:44 PM.

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