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Thread: Installing a VSS Sensor with Holley EFI

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Busa_rob View Post
    I want to use the Auto Meter GPS speedometer interface. It's 12 volt square wave, and has a maximum 16,000 ppm output. How would I configure that?
    I'm not familiar with how the Auto Meter GPS speedometer interface works, but here's how a conventional Auto Meter speedometer is connected: LINK. Holley's Digital Dash will soon have GPS speedometer capability (LINK).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    UPDATE: I had a 558-401 harness, so I installed the second wideband wiring. Along with that, I moved the pins from the J1A connector to the J2A connector, and now I have VSS!

    One thing to note is that if you are trying to read the VSS signal using the laptop software, you must configure the gauge to get a reading from the right input. Once I did that, I was able to see speed on the laptop software. Also, when using the new Digital Dash, the gauge must also be configured to display the proper input. Once that is done, the MPH will be displayed on the dash.
    Hi Andrew, I'm confused with the VSS - IPU Speed/Frequency configuration, could you share your setup for this with "pulses to average" and "PPROT"? Maybe I'm overloaded with taking this all in. Are you using the J1-B11 to excite the alternator? What are your conditions to activate? Regards, Dave

  3. #43
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    The Auto Meter GPS is quite a bit laggy for lack of a better term. While it does output a value, it's not very accurate (especially while accelerating rapidly at any speed), so just keep that in mind. I would try to get it so that the Auto Meter pulses end in a nice round number, for the math to line up.

    As an example:
    If you have a 28" tire, you could use 7 pulses per rotation. A 28" tire rotates 2262.857 pulses per mile, so you could use 7 pulses to average, 7 pulses per rotation, gear 1.0, tire 28" in that example. And then the Auto Meter should output 15840.
    If you have a different size tire, you'll have to play with the math to see if something works out, as a nice clean even number for the Auto Meter gauge to output, or you just have to fudge it by some decimals. LOL.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  4. #44
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    Hi Scott. Where I'm confused, is the PPROT. Is that for what the ECU sees for the tailshaft rotation, or is it for tire rotation?
    I have TR6060 VSS, (17 pulse per rotation I think), 3.7:1 diff ratio, and 285/40ZR17 tires (26" diameter).
    So that's what I put in the PPROT, gear ratio and tire diameter sections, and the ECU works out the rest.
    Ultimately, all I'm trying to do is activate the reverse lockout solenoid to an mph value. Regards, Dave

  5. #45
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    Pulses per rotation is the transmission output shaft/driveshaft rotation pulses.
    So if you're using the TR6060 VSS sensor, it's 17 pulses per rotation of the output shaft of the transmission.
    Put 17 in the pulses per rotation box, put in your 3.7 rear gear ratio, and your 26" tire size, and the ECU does the rest to figure out the MPH.
    I would start with 9 or 10 pulses to average, and if it's too jittery, increase the pulses to average until it smooths out to your liking.
    Last edited by S2H; 02-06-2016 at 11:15 PM.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  6. #46
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    OK, thanks Scott.

  7. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    I'm also curious if this was successful. If so, it's a great solution for HP ECU users (installation LINK). If not, maybe THIS. Another interesting idea: LINK.
    I'm curious if people have had good luck with this? I have a TH400 with electric speed sensor going to Holley HP. I think the Turbo 400 speed sensor is a VR sensor (it's a 2-wire).

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Another interesting idea: LINK.
    Quote Originally Posted by 97laserred View Post
    I'm curious if people have had good luck with this?
    If you're referring to the forum thread link above, read posts #20, #33 & on.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    If you're referring to the forum thread link above, read posts #20, #33 & on.
    I was talking about this setup:
    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...7#post-8836179
    http://jbperf.com/dual_VR/v2_1.html
    I think this would be the cheapest & easiest way to get it to work?

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by 97laserred View Post
    I think this would be the cheapest & easiest way to get it to work?
    I don't know, I've never used it. I have the Dominator ECU (many Hall-Effect inputs). Go ahead & try it.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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