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Thread: Transmission Temperature ECU Input

  1. #141
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    Just to be clear, the Auto Meter 2259 sensor is not any longer than the 1/8" NPT threads.
    It simply takes the place of the existing factory OEM 1/8" NPT pipe plug, so it's not an issue.
    Also, the Ford AOD transmission always has fluid psi in the main line pressure test port, even in
    Park/Neutral (LINK). However, as S2H mentioned, not all transmissions do, so be aware of this.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  2. #142

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    Hi. So I have the temperature sensor in & setup the table. It's on input #2. I set the min/max for the gauge. How about the min/max for the sensor? I set it the same. I'm currently just using my laptop and haven't installed the Digital Dash yet. I can't figure out how to make the transmission temp show for monitoring & datalogging purposes.

  3. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by HotRodLincoln View Post
    I set the min/max for the gauge. How about the min/max for the sensor? I set it the same.
    Yes.

    I can't figure out how to make the transmission temp show for monitoring & datalogging purposes.
    Configure the Data Monitor, Data Logger, Gauge Panel, etc.
    Enter the Data Monitor/Datalogger Edit screen ("E" button at top left corner),
    and "drag & drop" the custom channels over to the Data Screen/Log View lists.
    You need to scroll to the right to select the custom created channels.

    Custom I/O will appear on the Digital Dash list when synced to your ECU. Enter the "Customize" mode (function screen).
    Scroll all the way down the "Value To Monitor" list for your custom created transmission temperature input.
    Read page 13, "Adding Gauges", in reference to adding a gauge to the Digital Dash. The "channel" list is Step 3, page 13.

    Appendix A (Above the listed channels on page 42 & 43.)
    Below is a list of 283 values that can be monitored. Any user programmed I/O values will
    appear in the list, in addition to these once the Dash has been connected to a Holley ECU.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10746rev1.pdf (Holley 553-106 Digital Dash Instructions)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  4. #144

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    Danny, thanks for the tip on the Auto Meter 2259. I like the fact that it is 1/8 NPT rather than 3/8 NPT like the TX3 sending unit. This thread is 5 years old and most of the questions seem to revolve around how to program the custom sending unit into the EFI software. Maybe there needs to be a video that shows people how to customize their software or something.

    I haven't decided on my project if I should just buy a couple of TX3 sending units along with 3/8 NPT bungs and weld them into the transmission pan and the oil pan, or go with the smaller Auto Meter 2259. I guess the TX3 is easy to program since it is a pull down on the menu as long as you have room for the bung on the pan. Also, the ground path seems a little more certain with the TX3 since it goes back to a sensor ground pin. The self ground on the 2259 might be the cause of some of the questions in this thread.

  5. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyf View Post
    This thread is 5 years old and most of the questions seem to revolve around how to program the custom sending unit into the EFI software. Maybe there needs to be a video that shows people how to customize their software or something.
    I can't imagine why. My post #1 is very explicit (especially the "Recap" & "Notes").

    Also, the ground path seems a little more certain with the TX3 since it goes back to a sensor ground pin. The self ground on the 2259 might be the cause of some of the questions in this thread.
    If the engine isn't well grounded, they'll have bigger problems than one Auto Meter sensor. I've been successfully using this sensor for many years.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  6. #146

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    For the real penny pinchers out there, the Standard Motor Products TX3 is $18 at Summit, but FAST sells their CTS for only $13. I've used the FAST 307003 CTS on a few engines, and it appears to me to be the same exact part as the Holley CTS and the TX3. My guess is they all come from the same factory, although I do not know who the actual manufacturer is.

  7. #147

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    Hey Danny, I hooked up my 2259 sensor as instructed, but at full engine temp (195°F water temp), I'm only getting around 115°F oil temp? I installed it in oil cooler plate, any ideas?

  8. #148
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    That's seems about right if you're just idling (even when the engine is at full operating temperature). The temperature starts to rise when you start driving.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  9. #149

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    OK, I wasn't sure since it's not on the road yet. Thanks for your response.

  10. #150
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Dayton, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    That's seems about right if you're just idling (even when the engine is at full operating temperature). The temperature starts to rise when you start driving.
    Especially if your cruise RPM is below your stall speed.
    93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400

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