May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.
Danny, do you have a link for where to buy a crimp tool for the Delphi Metri-Pack 150 connectors? Thanks.
• I use the same tool for crimping Metri-Pack, Weather-Pack & SuperSeal terminals (ECU connectors).
This crimping tool is my favorite, is inexpensive, and works very well:
http://www.whiteproducts.com/tools.shtml (T-18 Metri-Pack/Weather-Pack terminal & seal crimper)
• If you don't have the actual Metri-Pack terminal release tool, a "safety pin" will work.
It just needs to be a stiff wire between .030"-.035" in diameter to release the terminal tab.
Then reopen (bend) the terminal tab before reinsertion, so it will clip (lock) into the cavity.
http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-6 Micro Terminal Release Pick Tool)
• If you're also working with Weather-Pack connectors, the terminal release tool is a necessity:
http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-3 Weather-Pack Terminal Release Tool)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...0&cat=0&page=6 (Nice kit from Innovate Motorsports)
• I always use the 16/18 AWG (1.0-0.80 mm²) terminals for Metri-Pack 150 and Weather-Pack connectors.
If using the smaller diameter 20/22 AWG wire (in a 16/18 AWG terminal), simply strip off twice the amount
of insulation you normally would, and fold it in half into the larger terminals for proper size crimping.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html (AWG to mm² Wire Conversion Table)
EDIT: I added some pertinent tool information.
May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.
Thanks again Danny.
This is confusing:
"Resonant Sensor
The proper frequency for a Resonant (1-wire) sensor is mostly dependent on the sensor design itself. The engine and chassis also can alter the best frequency selected. So it is required to find this information in a service manual or other source if a Resonant sensor is used.
The following is a recommended starting point for two common GM Resonant 1-wire sensors:
ACDelco PN 213-3521, GM PN 12589867 – Commonly used on 1998-2006 GM LSx engines. Baseline Frequency – 11.1 kHz
ACDelco PN 213-324, GM PN 10456288 – Used on Late 80’s GM engines. Baseline Frequency – 5.2 to 6.5 kHz"
The Standard Motor Products KS7 sensor replaces GM 10456288 - but can't find frequency data for it?
Is it the same 5.2 to 6.5 kHz or should I stick in the HP EFI value of 10.5 kHz (GM 10456288)?
Engine has been run at dyno without these sensors and gave 449 HP @ 5300 r/min and 475 ft lbs @4400 (with mechanical water pump and alternator installed).
Total advance at WOT is set to 34 degrees. I would like to have knock sensors up and running properly - just for safety reasons.
Last edited by Pertti Koskinen; 02-16-2014 at 07:24 PM.
'81 El Camino, SBC 383, Trick Flow 195 heads w/64cc CNC chambers (milled to 62cc), 12 cc dished pistons, 9.9:1 comp ratio (8.1 dynamic), Edelbrock Air-Gap, Dynatech headers (1 3/4 primaries), small cap HEI, Holley HP EFI, Comp Cams XE274HR (230/236 deg@.050" lift), MSD Super Conductor 8mm spark wires, NGK R spark plugs, TCI TH2004R transmission, 3.73 rear (10-bolt w ARP studs, solid sleeve, 28 spline Regal axles, Eaton TrueTrac diff, SSBC disc brakes), Hotchkis suspension.
That segment of the post is from the Holley EFI "Help" Contents, not me. I don't agree with their baseline frequency.
It's your responsibility to ascertain the correct frequency for the knock sensor(s) you choose to use.The Standard Motor Products KS7 sensor, replaces GM 10456288 - but can't find frequency data for it?
Is it the same 5.2 to 6.5 kHz or should I stick in the HP EFI value of 10.5 kHz (GM 10456288)?
If unable to find the correct frequency, just purchase the GM 10456288 knock sensor (Link), since we're sure of its data.
May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.
Hey Danny, I picked up a couple of the same sensors that you did. When using a 1-wire sensor(s), are you just ignoring the ground the instructions list?
"Holley EFI systems work with either a 1-wire or 2-wire knock sensor. Application specific harnesses will have the correct knock sensor connections installed on the harness. A Universal harness comes with a 3 pin Metri-Pack connector. If a knock sensor is added, it should be connected into this connector:
A21 – Knock Sensor #2 Input (Pin A)
A29 – Knock Sensor #1 Input (Pin B)
A18 – Sensor Ground (Pin C)"
93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400
May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.
I guess I was skimming the post and missed it this time. Thanks.
93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400
May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.