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Thread: Bucking on light throttle.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009


    Quote Originally Posted by 347Capri View Post
    Danny, is there any way to test individual injectors?
    You can use an injector noid light (LINK), an injector probe (LINK), or even a long screwdriver used as a stethoscope (placed between an injector and your ear, listening to each working injector).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #12


    I'm very interested in whatever advice is given out, as I have a similar issue. I thought my timing might be a problem, as in the trouble spot it's fairly high, but Danny just said that not enough timing tends to make this happen. Can too much timing make it happen? I have a T56 transmission. Andrew

  3. #13


    I had an old mechanical distributor that gave me bucking problems at highway speeds. The centrifugal advance was limited to 34°, but the vacuum advance can was bunged up and allowed over 25° to be added under high vacuum conditions (i.e. cruising). At idle & WOT, it didn't seem to affect the engine much, but when cruising on the highway, it bucked badly. The total timing was probably over 60°. Without vacuum advance, the mixture will still be burning when the exhaust valve opens at the end of the power stroke, and your headers may start glowing red.

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