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Thread: Bucking on light throttle.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,109

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    Quote Originally Posted by 347Capri View Post
    Danny, is there any way to test individual injectors?
    You can use an injector noid light (LINK), an injector probe (LINK), or even a long screwdriver used as a stethoscope (placed between an injector and your ear, listening to each working injector).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #12

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    I'm very interested in whatever advice is given out, as I have a similar issue. I thought my timing might be a problem, as in the trouble spot it's fairly high, but Danny just said that not enough timing tends to make this happen. Can too much timing make it happen? I have a T56 transmission. Andrew

  3. #13

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    I had an old mechanical distributor that gave me bucking problems at highway speeds. The centrifugal advance was limited to 34°, but the vacuum advance can was bunged up and allowed over 25° to be added under high vacuum conditions (i.e. cruising). At idle & WOT, it didn't seem to affect the engine much, but when cruising on the highway, it bucked badly. The total timing was probably over 60°. Without vacuum advance, the mixture will still be burning when the exhaust valve opens at the end of the power stroke, and your headers may start glowing red.

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