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Thread: Help! 1993 Ford Mustang

  1. #1

    Default Help! 1993 Ford Mustang

    I have a 1993 Ford Mustang with a 306 in it, with a Vortech supercharger on it. It was dyno tuned, so it still has the factory OBD1 ECU on it. The ECU has an SCT chip on it, and if I change anything on the car, I'll have to drive forever to have it tuned again, due to the fact that no one can tune OBD1. I'm looking for a user friendly system. I'm not apposed to changing the intake, injectors, etc., but I want my gauges to work. What would you all suggest? I would love to see what the car is doing!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by william griffin View Post
    ...but I want my gauges to work.
    The instrument dash panel in those cars is not ECU controlled. UPDATE: See post #4 below.

    What would you all suggest?
    Holley HP EFI ECU & Harness Kit (Universal Ford 550-606/550-606N).
    One has the Bosch WBO2 sensor, and the kit with the "N" suffix has the NTK WBO2 sensor.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ension-Harness (Wideband O2 Sensor Information)

    Most people find this document very helpful:
    http://documents.holley.com/efi_sele...chart62914.pdf (Holley HP & Dominator EFI Component Selection Guide)
    With the Dominator EFI, everything is sold separately. Use Summit Racing's shopping cart for a total price.
    The HP ECU only has four Inputs & four Outputs. If you need more than that, you'll need the Dominator ECU:
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...useanddiff.pdf (Holley HP & Dominator ECU Differences)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you for the help. With the kits that you've suggested, all of my factory gauges will work properly?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    19,283

    Default 5.0L Fox Mustang - Tachometer, Coolant Temp, Oil Pressure Gauge

    Yes. The instrument dash panel in those cars is not ECU controlled. The gauges are wired to separate sending units, not ECU sensors.
    The speedometer, voltmeter & fuel level gauges are not affected by the Holley HP/Dominator EFI installation, so they remain functional as is.
    Cruise control, neutral safety switch, inertia switch/fuel pump wiring* also aren't affected by the Holley EFI installation, so they remain functional as is.
    The Tan/Yellow wire is the tachometer RPM signal, and has a 4-wire soldered junction at S102. So connect the Holley EFI pin A28 tachometer output
    (10-pin Ignition Connector, cavity "H", Blue/White wire - LINK) anywhere along that Tan/Yellow wire routing using a single Weather-Pack connector.
    https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...3#post-9099093 (Ignition System Wiring Diagram)
    Use a double Weather-Pack connector for the retained instrument panel coolant temperature & oil pressure sending unit wires (#10 & #11 below):



    Click image for larger version. 

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    NOTES:
    I recently installed a Holley Dominator EFI system in my 1992 Ford Mustang GT (LINK) with a mostly stock 5.0L engine & AOD transmission. The engine idles great, and all my factory instrument panel gauges work properly. (I installed the following upgrades at the same time: Accufab IAC Adapter (LINK), Holley EFI Digital Dash & 3.5" TSLCD (LINK), Holley EFI 554-102 fuel & oil pressure transducers, Holley EFI 556-115 36-1 Crank Trigger Kit, Pioneer 872010 Street Performance vibration damper, Holley EFI 556-101 Waste-Spark DIS & MSD 8852 Pro Race Boot Kit, MSD 85221 Cam Sync unit, Holley EFI 522-488 48 lb/hr fuel injectors, Holley EFI 554-100 dual NTK WBO2 sensors with Innovate Motorsports HBX-1 heat sink bunk extenders, dual knock sensors (LINK), Frostbite FB169 radiator with Spal 30102130 dual 12" electric fans & relocated stainless steel overflow tank (LINK), Optima 9004-003 Red Top battery, WAI 160 amp Ford 3G alternator (LINK) & SVE 4 AWG charge cable kit (LINK), LMR SVE cold air intake kit (LINK), Auto Meter 5292 Hall-Effect VSS & 2259 trans temp sensor, Pypes shorty headers (LINK)/X-pipe (LINK)/mandrel bent 2.5" dual exhaust (LINK), all emissions equipment deleted, etc.) Next year, I'm removing the engine & transmission, and building a 363" FRPP BOSS short block (LINK) with Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 190cc cylinder heads (CNC Competition Ported-LINK) & top end kit. The AOD automatic transmission will be a LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM stall torque converter, with a B&M 81002 Hammer shifter.

    1) The Holley Dominator ECU fits in the stock Ford ECU location, without any body modifications. Right now, this is the only picture I have. It's not very good, but you can see the Dominator ECU in there: http://s41.photobucket.com/user/dcf1...yqirp.jpg.html (Dominator ECU Installation). Remember, the OEM Ford ECU has to be removed along with the enormous 60-pin ECU connector to allow room to fit the Dominator ECU. The cut Ford ECU harness is then routed downward out of the way, behind the kick panel trim cover's push pin mounting point. Ensure the +12V powered wires capped off at the end of the Ford ECU harness. The Dominator ECU secured in place by 3 of the 4 Dominator ECU mounting points. The fourth rear top mounting eyelet is positioned in free space, and needs a short piece of fuel hose wire tied to it because it barely touches the curved body panel at that location (LINK). The Dominator ECU is positioned sort of on top of where the Ford ECU would be. Meaning it doesn't lay flat against the recessed body panel area (there's air space around the Dominator ECU). It's behind the passenger trim kick panel, right where the OEM Ford ECU is/was (not the firewall). You also have to cut the two protruding lower door hinge bolts (the extra threaded length that sticks out too far). Very easy to do with a die grinder. You're not unbolting anything, and there are no body modifications! The rear lower mounting point requires a 7/16" long plastic spacer (again, very easy). The passenger trim kick panel is reinstalled and fits as it normally does. Although, the very thick insulation has to be removed from the plastic kick panel trim cover.

    It's a very good fit, and even the Holley USB cable clears the door sill cavity. And you can still disconnect & connect the ECU connectors too. The Holley EFI main harness from the ECU connectors, tucks nicely in the door sill cavity (the lower plastic push pin retainer for the kick panel trim cover needs to be cut/shortened). The Dominator ECU must be positioned as far forward (toward firewall) as possible. The front lower mounting eyelet determines the entire ECU installed location, due to the curved body panel at that location. The amazing thing is the huge blower box that's in the way of the Dominator ECU installation, is very easily removed in less than five minutes! It's two screws at the bottom, one bolt at the top (behind glove box, that flips down to gain access), one vacuum hose disconnect, and one 2-wire disconnect (blower motor). This blower box is huge, and when easily removed, it provides vast total access for the Dominator ECU installation and the interior side of the firewall harness grommet! TIP: I relocated the main power harness (LINK) fuse holder about a foot further away from the ECU connector, so it's located in the engine compartment side of the firewall grommet for easy access. I did this by simply extending the ECU end of the main power harness (LINK). Of course, the Holley EFI main harness (LINK) & main power harness (LINK) are both easily routed through the firewall hole for the rubber grommet. Obviously, the center hole of the rubber firewall grommet must be enlarged, and the grommet cut on one side for removal & reinstallation. (If you prefer to modify a new one: LINK.) The Holley EFI main harness (& system relay) is routed down under the ECU, then crosses over the front of the ECU at its thin side, then wire tied with the remaining Ford EEC harness, through the firewall. The Holley EFI main power harness is routed up above the ECU, and wire tied along with the OEM Ford ECU Power Relay harness. A Fox body Mustang has to be the easiest Holley EFI installation ever!

    2) I even made a custom Holley EFI loose wires connection point, using the OEM Ford ECU Power Relay. It provides a great quick connect for:
    ...My CTEK trickle charger wires (battery + & −).
    ...Holley EFI loose ground black wire.
    ...Holley EFI loose switched +12V red/white wire.
    ...Holley EFI loose fuel pump green wire*.
    ...Holley EFI loose +12V battery/fused red wire. (I chose to route the Holley EFI loose +12V battery red wire to the battery separately, because I have an engine compartment single cavity Weather-Pack disconnector on it.)
    That's all four essential Holley EFI loose wires: http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 13, Wiring Appendix). So up to six wires (including trickle charger) are instant quick connect into the OEM Ford ECU Power Relay socket. This greatly simplifies the Holley EFI main harness & trickle charger installation. I wanted it to serve a purpose, since it would otherwise be unused when removing the OEM Ford ECU. This should be sold by the aftermarket: http://s41.photobucket.com/user/dcf1...yfzyh.jpg.html (Custom Holley EFI Loose Wiring Connector).

    In order to make this, disconnect the OEM Ford ECU Power Relay so you can modify it on a work bench. Carefully pry the black square cover off the brown socket base; it's glued on. Drill the appropriate size hole in the top center of the cover and install a wiring grommet. Remove the mechanical relay guts, being careful to leave enough metal material to solder the four wires onto the remains. (The ground wire splits off into two wires; grounding the Holley EFI loose ground black wire and the trickle charger negative. The +12V battery wire splits off into two wires; powering the Holley EFI loose +12V battery/fused red wire and the trickle charger positive.) The CTEK trickle charger includes their Comfort Indicator/Connector, so cut the two eyelets off and solder these wires on. The Holley EFI loose switched +12V red/white wire connects to the Ford ECU Power Relay red/light green wire terminal. The Holley EFI loose fuel pump green wire* connects to the Ford ECU Power Relay red wire terminal. Then attach a four cavity connector for the four essential Holley EFI loose wires. On the '91-'93 Ford Mustangs, the OEM Ford ECU Power Relay wire colors are:
    ...Red/Light Green = Switched/Keyed +12V.
    ...Yellow (2) = Battery +12V, hot at all times.
    ...Black/White = Negative Ground.
    ...Red (2) = +12V power to Ford Fuel Pump Relay's coil (and Ford ECU, fuel injector power, IAC motor, MAF sensor & various emissions solenoids).
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif ('91-'93 EEC Wiring Schematic)
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif ('88-'91 EEC Wiring Schematic)
    The '88-'91 Ford ECU Power Relay & Ford Fuel Pump Relay is wired the same way, but the wire colors are different.
    *The OEM Ford fuel pump relay's coil negative wire must be grounded, because Holley EFI +12V powers a fuel pump with its loose green wire. This is easily accomplished by simply cutting off the light blue/orange wire at the 60-pin Ford ECU connector (terminal #22 - LINK) and grounding it at the body ground screw under the Ford ECU & harness (see above picture), with a short wire a few inches long and an eyelet ring terminal. (Remember, the large 60-pin Ford ECU connector must be cut off anyway, and this wire is located right there.) So after reconnecting the modified OEM Ford ECU Power Relay (which powers the Ford fuel pump relay's coil positive wire), the entire fuel system wiring is completed. Yes, it's that easy. You don't even have to touch the fuel pump relay at all (in the engine compartment or under the driver's seat on earlier model years), or any of its related wiring anywhere else on the vehicle.

    3) I installed Holley EFI 556-101 Waste-Spark DIS with an MSD 8852 cam sync unit and an MSD 8852 Pro Race High Temp Boot Kit. (CNP coils are harder to fit in these cars because there's no room above the valve covers, and I love waste-spark DIS!) I fabricated a beautiful Holley waste-spark DIS coil pack bracket (for a stock Fox body Mustang 5.0L engine). It's positioned right next to the A/C compressor & above the power steering pump. The DIS coil pack bracket attaches to the two outside A/C compressor mounting bolts (so slightly longer bolts are required), and a threaded & rubber tipped height adjustment/support bolt is attached to the power steering pump bracket. The engine oil dipstick & power steering reservoir cap are still accessible. There was a perfect empty space for the DIS coil pack, so I utilized it, and it looks like it's installed that way from the factory:
    http://s41.photobucket.com/user/dcf1...0iatk.png.html (Driver Side)
    http://s41.photobucket.com/user/dcf1...1adzc.png.html (Pass Side)

    4) I installed a Holley EFI 556-115 36-1 Crank Trigger Kit, and a Pioneer 872010 Street Performance Damper (because the outer ring is fully degreed including 90°, 180° & 270° markings). I installed the 36-1 Crank Trigger Kit without moving all other belt driven components forward 1/4". I did this by machining 1/4" off the damper snout (front crank seal end), so it's positioned 1/4" deeper, and fabricating a 1/4" thick spacer for the crank bolt end. The length of the damper's crankshaft hub must remain the same; meaning the 1/4" of material removed from one end, must be added to the opposite end.
    FYI: The very end of the lower radiator hose at the water pump, needs to be shaved just a little bit. I'm referring to the little flared end caused by the tightened hose clamp, that contacts the trigger wheel just a tad. It's an easy 30 second task with a Dremel tool. The hose clamp can remain in tact (as long as the screw head isn't facing down), and there's no need to drain the coolant. Also, the OEM Ford 5.0L timing pointer (LINK) does need to be shortened to fit under the Holley crank sensor bracket. I accomplished this by cutting about 1/2" off each mounting leg, and reattaching each overlapping leg with two 1/8" stainless steel rivets. After addressing these two minor issues, it's a perfect easy installation!

    5) Since these vehicles already have an A/C WOT Cutout Relay (Holley names it "A/C Shutdown"), you might as well use it if your vehicle is so equipped. The Pink/Yellow wire is already located at the 60-pin Ford ECU connector (pin #54). It provides a ground signal for the A/C WOT Cutout Relay's coil negative terminal. Holley EFI will perform the same task. Check mark A/C Shutdown in the Holley EFI software (Basic I/O - System Parameters), select a Ground Output Type in Inputs/Outputs (still in the System ICF), and Pin Map it to an available "G" (Ground) Output Type pin.

    Holley EFI also has an A/C "IAC Kick" function, so the A/C compressor doesn't cause a momentary drop in idle RPM when it's turned on. The Black/Yellow wire is already located at the 60-pin Ford ECU connector (pin #10). It provides a +12V A/C signal for the Ford ECU. Holley EFI will perform the same task. If you have electric fans, you might as well use this too. The Holley V5 EFI software/ECU firmware finally added an A/C activation option for the electric fans. Check mark A/C "IAC Kick" in the Holley EFI software (Basic I/O - System Parameters), select a +12V Input Type in Inputs/Outputs (still in the System ICF), and Pin Map it to an available "H" (+12V) Input Type pin. See below for more information.
    Quote Originally Posted by Holley EFI V5 EFI Software Update Overview
    Fans/Pumps/AC
    A checkbox is now available for Fan #1 & Fan #2. This ONLY appears if the A/C "IAC Kick" input is selected
    & used. When the A/C IAC Kick input (an input triggered when Air Conditioning is active), the user has the
    option to have one or both of the fans automatically come on, independent of engine coolant temperature.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...teoverview.pdf (Holley EFI V5 EFI Software Update Overview - Pages 7 & 8)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A quick plug for "Herm's Hack Shack" (LINK). Most '87-'93 Ford Mustang parts are still available new. However,
    if you need an obsolete or used part, this place has very good service. His eBay seller rating is 99.8% positive
    feedback. He also has a five star rating on Facebook. His prices are very reasonable, and shipping is quick.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

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