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Thread: Need some help please.

  1. #1

    Default Need some help please.

    So for one, I can’t get the rotor to line up with the #1 tower on the cap. It’s the Holley dual sync distributor. It’s off by a quarter inch. Secondly, every time I go to crank the engine, the handheld turns off. Help please, thanks.

  2. #2

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    I wouldn't sweat the exact location of the rotor. I too was concerned that it was off, but I had followed the directions twice with the same results. When it was all said & done, mine ran fine. You need a key on power source for the unit that stays hot while cranking, so your handheld stays on.

  3. #3
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    I know you won't like this, but if you don't like where the rotor is pointed then pull it out and rotate it where you want, and drop it in again. And just what Zmann said, your source is no good where you have it now.

  4. #4
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    Yes, ensure the Switched +12V red/white wire (pink wire - Sniper EFI) is powered in the "Run" and "Crank" key positions.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  5. #5
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    If you don't like where your rotor is, get one of these: https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...ies/parts/8421

  6. #6

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    When you do the initial dual sync distributor adjustment using the onboard lights, the rotor & distributor housing relationship is set by the the light. An adjustable rotor or pulling the distributor out and resetting it won't help change the "proper" rotor to tower set position.

  7. #7
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    Interesting. I don't have a dual sync distributor. Good information Zmann.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zmann View Post
    When you do the initial dual sync distributor adjustment using the onboard lights, the rotor & distributor housing relationship is set by the the light. An adjustable rotor or pulling the distributor out and resetting it won't help change the "proper" rotor to tower set position.
    I second this. Think about it. The rotor is screwed to the chopper vane. You can't change the "mounting". The Hall-Effect sensors are non-adjustable.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zmann View Post
    When you do the initial dual sync distributor adjustment using the onboard lights, the rotor & distributor housing relationship is set by the the light. An adjustable rotor or pulling the distributor out and resetting it won't help change the "proper" rotor to tower set position.
    Changing the tooth the distributor runs on, will not change the rotor phasing, but using an adjustable rotor allows you to change the rotor to cap phasing. I needed one on my MSD & Accel distributors.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jboy43 View Post
    So for one, I can’t get the rotor to line up with the #1 tower on the cap. It’s the Holley dual sync distributor. It’s off by a quarter inch. Secondly, every time I go to crank the engine, the handheld turns off. Help please, thanks.
    Is the rotor lined up before the terminal on the cap? Looking at the instructions and video for setting up the Dual Sync Distributor, it's done with the crank at 50° BTDC, so the rotor would be 25° before the terminal on a regular distributor. I'm sure Holley already phased the rotor in the Dual Sync Distributor let's say 15° advanced, so that would give you 10° or about 1/4 inch on the distributor housing. Most engines would run no less that 10° timing and no more than 50°, so a 40° spread, since the distributor turns at half engine speed, that works out to 20°. So at an idle of 10° engine timing the rotor is 10° past the cap post. At 30° engine timing, usually near maximum power, the rotor would be centered on the cap post. Under light throttle with the engine timing at 50°, the rotor would be 10° before the cap post.

    From what I have seen on the board the handheld sounds like a loss of power during cranking. I seem to remember something else also causing it, but cannot find mention of it now.

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