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Thread: New Sniper install. Fuel issue, crank issue & direction question.

  1. #1

    Default New Sniper install. Fuel issue, crank issue & direction question.

    Just put a Sniper EFI on my '67 Bronco with a 289/C4, MSD 6A ignition. I've initially set it up with the purple wire connected to the MSD tach output to allow the MSD box to handle timing. Issues:

    Fuel: Inline pump on frame rail. After pressurization & starting, no visible leaks. The next day, the garage stinks of gas. Still no visible leaks and all clamps look tight. The only thing I can think of is that I moved the fuel inlet to a different port and I did not put any tape on the 'non-AN' male side that plugged into the Sniper. Could that lack of tape be allowing fuel to seep out causing the smell?

    Crank: (I think I may have sorted this, but will ask anyways.) I hooked the pink wire up to the connection that would have gone to the old voltage regulator, which is supposed to be hot on run & crank. I will turn the ignition to on, the unit powers up, but when I crank, the handheld seems to 'reset'. I'm assuming there is a momentary loss of power in between run & crank that causes it to reset. I believe I sorted out an ignition source that will not have the loss of power and allow it to stay, or is it normal for the device to reset during crank?

    Direction: Even with the MSD, my intent was to have the Holley control timing. I was going to purchase a dual sync distributor, but they were on back order and I had approval from my wife for the purchase; thus I was spending the money initially. Once I resolve the current issues, should I just leave well enough alone until I get the dual sync distributor, or is it worth it to lock out my current MSD system and let the Holley take over now? I would love to get rid of the MSD box under the hood and clean up some wires, but I also don't want to over complicate the situation. Thoughts?
    Thanks, Dan

  2. #2

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    I'll see if I can help some.
    Fittings: Both fittings on the Sniper should be -6AN fittings, so not sure which fitting you're talking about, unless you are missing something. The AN fittings should not need any tape. Smell could be coming from the tank vent.
    Cranking: The system should never reset when cranking. If it does, then you need to find a different source for the switched 12 volts. I don't thing the regulator is a good source.
    Holley says to get the system running first before using timing control. I'd do that. I did. After I had about 2500 miles on the system, I started setting things up for timing control. But I had issues/bad parts. So I was at least able to revert back to no timing control and keep her on the road, until I get things sorted out.
    '73 K5 Blazer, built 350 SBC 375 HP/425 TQ, 12" F/18" R suspension travel. Deaver springs with King shocks, D44/12 bolt, 3.73 gears, lunchbox locker F/Auburn Posi R, crossover steering, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Vintage Air system, PRP suspension seats, lots of custom work, all built by me.

  3. #3

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    Good call on the tank vent. Other than that, next time you let it sit and smell fuel, pull your air cleaner and take a whiff inside the throttle body. If a fitting was leaking, it would rear its head when the pump was on and likely spray if it was on the pressure side. Your handheld should absolutely not reset while cranking, you need to find a better power source. Get the dual sync distributor, IMO it's just so much easier & better.

  4. #4

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    On my car ('70 Cougar), I used the green-red wire in the voltage regulator harness which came directly from the ignition switch. I've had no problems using that wire for the key-on signal, even before I upgraded to a 3G alternator. I found a wiring diagram for the '67 Bronco, and it looks like the green-red wire serves the same purpose in both vehicles, and comes directly from the ignition switch. If you suspect you're losing voltage on the wire temporarily, you might try testing the ignition switch for internal continuity between run & start. Here's the wiring diagram I found: http://www.bronco.com/graphics/diagrams/66-67ign.gif

  5. #5

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    Just updating that I utilized a relay with two different triggers. Both the I post on the starter relay, and the back of the ignition switch. No more 'resets' during the cranking process.

    As for the fuel smell, I believe it was the fill vent hose getting cracked (it's old) during moving everything around during install. Now to let this baby Learn. Still get some exhaust smell, but I'm hoping that's lessened with time (that and my son needs to stop putting the accelerator to the floor every time he takes the Bronco out). Now to decide if it's worth it for the Dual Sync Distributor, or do I just stay with my MSD 6A CDI box.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by bannind View Post
    Now to decide if it's worth it for the Dual Sync Distributor, or do I just stay with my MSD 6A CDI box.
    You can use your 6A CDI box with the Holley Dual Sync Distributor.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  7. #7

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    If I don't have to, I'd rather not run the MSD 6A. It was from a time when my rig was setup for a different purpose than it is now. Now all I want is a reliable start & run, with a clean engine bay. If it isn't going to improve performance, I won't be changing over to the dual sync distributor, and will just leave the MSD in place.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by SatherCS View Post
    On my car ('70 Cougar), I used the green-red wire in the voltage regulator harness which came directly from the ignition switch. I've had no problems using that wire for the key-on signal, even before I upgraded to a 3G alternator. I found a wiring diagram for the '67 Bronco, and it looks like the green-red wire serves the same purpose in both vehicles, and comes directly from the ignition switch. If you suspect you're losing voltage on the wire temporarily, you might try testing the ignition switch for internal continuity between run & start. Here's the wiring diagram I found: http://www.bronco.com/graphics/diagrams/66-67ign.gif
    In your posted gif: #16 comes from the ignition switch. #262 comes from the fender mounted starter solenoid. They both combine in a plug to make a "true ignition" wire for the coil.
    You can clearly tell that the starter solenoid is "special" (#262 and the cable that goes to the starter are connected, only when cranking). When the wrong "type" of solenoid is installed, it causes the vehicle to not start sometimes.
    This is how Fords do their ignition wire in older vehicles. They don't have a run/crank wire at the ignition switch. They artificial make it under the hood.

  9. #9

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    I know the coil wire has two wires so that there 's enough voltage during cranking to fire the original ignition, that one I believe he was using for the MSD box keyed 12V wire. If you look at wire #904, that is the wire that tells the voltage regulator to turn on and has full 12V in run & crank, because it is not running through the resistor wire like the ignition is. This is the wire I use, and is the wire I think bannind was using before he made the relay system.

    Also bannind, I thought the Sniper came with a coil driver? You can use that if you don't want to use the MSD with timing control, even if you don't go with the Dual Sync distributor. I will say one thing about the MSD or any CDI style box, it is definitely true that they will fire fouled plugs more easily than an inductive style single coil ignition. I ran into that problem a couple of weeks ago in my '91 TBI 350. I had removed my MSD to try and figure out some fuel consumption problems, and was running on the factory setup. After a couple days of just starting & moving it a couple feet, the factory ignition couldn't fire the plugs. I still had the MSD in the engine bay, so I put it back on and it fired right up (even with me flooding the engine).

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    I always recommend using a CD ignition box with distributor type ignition systems. Here's why: LINK.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

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