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Thread: Throttle Cable/Bracket Install

  1. #1

    Default Throttle Cable/Bracket Install

    I've dealt well the the touchy throttle on my '69 Cutlass for a while. Over the summer, I cobbled together some scraps to add a little leverage on the throttle. That solved the touchy throttle, but created another where the throttle wouldn’t come back to idle consistently. Sometimes it would hang around 4-5% throttle. After reading some thread on here about the touchy throttle, I decided to order the Holley 20-14 extension. I must have missed the part about that still needed some modifications. I also added a little extra bend to the return springs to hopefully bring the throttle back to idle. After some modifications to allow my throttle & cruise cables, I reinstalled the throttle body for some tests. Throttle move easy, comes back to idle consistently, but now I can only get about 80% TPS. If I move the throttle bracket back to where I can get 95ish% TPS, it won’t come back to idle. I’m tired of trying to re-engineer something as basic as throttle geometry. Seems from reading the other complaints, I’m not the only one with this issue. So what’s the fix? Thanks.

  2. #2

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    I had to add about an inch to my throttle lever on my Sniper. Basically, I made the lever to mimic a Holley 4bbl carb and was at a loss as to why Holley didn't make the Sniper the same as a carb? I was not always returning to 0-1% TPS when I was done and didn't like wrapping the Sniper springs around again, so I added a very light return spring and manifold bolt bracket and all seems well now. '81 GMC Jimmy, probably real similar throttle pedal to yours?

  3. #3

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    None of the included throttle studs fit my cable. My car has a cable with a large 1/2 hole with a rubber insulator, with a plastic sleeve in the center. I cut the stud off a junk carb and tack welded it to the 20-14 extension. I don’t really want to cut & weld a typical Holley carb bracket to the throttle body. I’m hoping someone has some pictures of what they did to fix this stupid issue.

  4. #4

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    I was not going to permanently modify my Sniper, in case they wanted to exchange it for me if I had to send it in (and I did have to, LOL).
    Basically, I cut the top of a linkage off of a good carb and bolted it to the Sniper linkage using existing holes in the Sniper and new holes in the donor.
    Here is the Sniper. I raised the stud about an inch:


    And the top section with the large hole is what I cut off the carb. And now my throttle pull locates in the large hole. Basically I made my Sniper linkage mimic a carb linkage:


    Here's a Holley video with some options. My Holley carbs on my GMs have always used the top large hole, however, they do not show that being used in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_90OfK1ywlo.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt69olds View Post
    I've dealt well the the touchy throttle on my '69 Cutlass for a while. Over the summer, I cobbled together some scraps to add a little leverage on the throttle. That solved the touchy throttle, but created another where the throttle wouldn’t come back to idle consistently. Sometimes it would hang around 4-5% throttle. After reading some thread on here about the touchy throttle, I decided to order the Holley 20-14 extension. I must have missed the part about that still needed some modifications. I also added a little extra bend to the return springs to hopefully bring the throttle back to idle. After some modifications to allow my throttle & cruise cables, I reinstalled the throttle body for some tests. Throttle move easy, comes back to idle consistently, but now I can only get about 80% TPS. If I move the throttle bracket back to where I can get 95ish% TPS, it won’t come back to idle. I’m tired of trying to re-engineer something as basic as throttle geometry. Seems from reading the other complaints, I’m not the only one with this issue. So what’s the fix? Thanks.
    I hate adding more "stuff" under the hood. So the "fix" I would do is: Remove the throttle pedal under the dash. Then cut & extend the rod that the cable connects to about 1" should do.

  6. #6

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    I ordered a Street Demon 1952 and extended the lever up on the Sniper. I haven't tested it yet, but it adds the bigger hole for the attachment, and moves the pull off lever up. Right now with it on there, it hits my drop base and will not work, so I'm waiting on a flat air cleaner base and see if it clears. I hope this works, the throttle is WAY too touchy, and is very hard to control. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...age/parts/1952

  7. #7

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    Interesting. It states Sniper TBI, but I can't see it being a bolt on? Either way, it looks like a useful part even if it needs modified. (EDIT: NM, I missed that you already have it on.) Any pics? Keep us posted.

    Here's my bolt on extension I hacked off a good spare carb I had. The bolt is the old throttle pivot location:

  8. #8

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    It bolts right in no modification. Here it is attached:
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9

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    Very cool, thanks. I didn't think the bottom would clear the little linkage, apparently I was visualizing it wrong. That part would have saved my old carb from getting cut up, LOL.

  10. #10

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    I solved my issue. I had a couple throttle pedals from parts cars. I cut my lever, cut the lever off a junk pedal an inch longer that what I cut from the original, and welded the two together. Works perfectly. I did have to drill a new hole to move the throttle cable up to match the throttle pedal lever.

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