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Thread: Kill Switch Install

  1. #1

    Default Kill Switch Install

    I want to install a Kill switch to hopefully slow down a car thief.
    What is the best way to install a kill switch with the Holley Sniper EFI installation?
    Should I install the switch to kill 12V to the starter solenoid?
    Should I Install the switch to kill 12V to the fuel pump or Sniper "Pink" wire?
    I could also kill the timing trigger signal to the Sniper EFI unit?
    I typically like to kill at least two sources, so if the thief finds & jumpers one the car still will not start.
    I know this will not stop all theft, but it will slow them down. Thanks, Paul

  2. #2

    Default

    You can also make a bogus Base Fuel Table to load from the handheld display for when you're parked.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    18,698

    Default

    Yes, I was thinking the same thing. The 3.5" LCD Touchscreen can also change complete Config Files/Global Files by storing them on the SD Card. So you can even do something with the Ignition Parameters.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  4. #4

    Default

    I wouldn't want to be loading files every time I parked. I would suggest any one of these that you listed:
    Should I install the switch to kill 12V to the starter solenoid?
    Should I Install the switch to kill 12V to the fuel pump or Sniper "Pink" wire?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    18,698

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zmann View Post
    I wouldn't want to be loading files every time I parked.
    I agree, not all the time. I'm thinking if he's parking his car in a questionable area for some event or for a longer than usual time.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  6. #6

    Default

    Starter is easily jumped with a screwdriver. I'd go with a kill switch on the power to the distributor first, fuel pump second.
    '73 K5 Blazer, built 350 SBC 375 HP/425 TQ, 12" F/18" R suspension travel. Deaver springs with King shocks, D44/12 bolt, 3.73 gears, lunchbox locker F/Auburn Posi R, crossover steering, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Vintage Air system, PRP suspension seats, lots of custom work, all built by me.

  7. #7

    Default

    I load the DEAD file for parking overnight or in a questionable area. Otherwise, it's click the kill switch or a club. Multi-pronged defense.

  8. #8

    Default

    Sorry to hijack your thread. But I had a similar question on how should I wire a kill switch to the pink wire?

  9. #9

    Default

    You put a switch inline with the pink wire preferably a hidden or keyed switch. That switch can be used to break the circuit on the pink wire, that would normally complete after the ignition is turned to on. Or you can use it as the only power source to the pink wire instead of the ignition switch (that's what I do).

  10. #10

    Default

    Thank you for the help.

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