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Thread: Excessive battery voltage, TPS floating & rich fuel.

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    172

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    Quote Originally Posted by SatherCS View Post
    Are you saying that the loose black wire is connected to the same point as the alternator, or are they both connected to the engine block, but in different places? Also, the 10 AWG wire from the frame to the battery seems redundant. Since there are two points that go to to the battery, there's a potential for a voltage difference on the 1 AWG wire from the block to the frame, especially if the wires have slightly different internal resistance.
    The loose black ground wire is connected at the same place on the block as my alternator ground wire. Here's where I got this ground idea: https://www.holley.com/blog/post/efi...d_and_voltage/.

  2. #42

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    I think in the link you posted, they're talking about a full frame car which has three main sections where grounds are connected to. Number 3 from the link provided talks about having one ground wire from the battery to the block, another ground wire from the frame to the block, and then one from the body to the battery. In a full frame car, all of these are separated by rubber bushings (usually). In a unibody the frame & body should be connected as long as there is no significant rust in the spot welds. Your car from the factory would've had only the firewall to back of head connection, and the battery to block connection. This way, the electricity only has one way to get back to the battery. I'm not saying the way you have it is wrong, but if you have confidence that the 1 AWG wire from the block to the frame has a good connection to the whole body, then you might try temporarily disconnecting the ground strap at the firewall and the 10 AWG wire to see if that makes any difference. As for the loose black wire, the instructions say that it shouldn't share a ground point with anything else, so you could try moving that to its own bolt hole on the engine.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    172

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    I THINK it's resolved. I’ve had about 10 good starts in two days with no sensors going berserk. Here were my last steps:
    1. Pulled the loose EFI ground off and put it on the head, so it's alone.
    2. Moved the MSD ground & power wires off the battery, so they aren't shared with the EFI ground & power anymore.
    3. Still have the grounds from battery to block, block to frame, frame to battery. Also have the intake to firewall ground.
    4. I ended up moving the coil back to the original location.

  4. #44

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    It's good to hear that. Do you think it was more with the MSD ground being directly at the battery, or the loose wire that was causing the sensors to go crazy?

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    172

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    I would've liked to have done one thing at a time to be certain, but I didn't have the time and I knew both of those changes couldn't hurt anything. I’m confident that all of the shielding, thicker cables and cleaner contact surfaces helped too.

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