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Thread: Loose wires with 558-117 Main Harness

  1. #1

    Default Loose wires with 558-117 Main Harness

    I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the 558-117 or instructions for it. The generic instructions don't say what to do with the loose red wire (coil power) on the 558-117 harness. Should it just be hooked up to the battery with a 20A fuse like the other red wire? The reason I ask is because the coils can pull more than 20A and that power has to be coming from somewhere. If it is all coming in through the red wire then it seems like I need a larger fuse.

    The big wire coil kit instructions say to use a 40A relay or even two 40A relays depending on dwell time. Should the 558-117 be setup the same way? There is a 40A relay in the harness, but I'm not sure where the 40A feed is coming from. If it's coming in via the red wire then does that need a 40A fuse on it? (Be nice if instructions or wiring diagrams were available for this harness.)

  2. #2
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    The Holley EFI 558-117/558-118 Universal MPFI/CNP Main Harness is wired just like the Holley 558-104 Universal Main Harness (LINK - Section 13 Wiring Appendix) and the Holley 558-307 Universal CNP Harness (LINK).
    The wire size modification pertains to the CNP coil sub-harness, not the CNP main harness. You can use Holley's already modified 558-318 "Big Wire" CNP coil sub-harness (or the Holley 556-128 CNP V8 Kit).
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...-For-CNP-Coils (Related CNP Relay Info)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

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    Danny, does the I/O connector on the main engine harness plug into the J2A connector harness? It fits together, but I can't find any info on it.

  4. #4
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    If you're referring to the Holley 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness, it's "plug & play" into the main harness.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10516.pdf (Holley 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness Instructions)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

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    I also have the 558-117 harness. For the loose wires, specifically the red wires (battery, coil & fuel), do they need to be hooked directly to the battery? Or can I hook them to a 12 volt junction box?

  6. #6

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    Holley recommends hooking directly to the battery, but if you have an excellent connection to breaker switch or power post, which is also connected to the battery, then you'll be fine.

  7. #7

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    Thanks. I should also clarify.
    I have the battery in the truck, with a NHRA battery disconnect switch.
    I was thinking of hooking the main power and ground directly to the battery.
    And then the loose power wires (coil & fuel pump) to the power distribution block (which is from the switched side of the disconnect).
    I was hoping this way, when I shut off the switch, it kills the engine.

  8. #8
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    Originally Posted by Holley Technical Support:
    The red/white switched wire is on the disconnect. The red & black main power harness are connected directly to the battery. The red/white will shut off the unit if the emergency disconnect switch is turn off.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral:
    FYI: If you install a battery disconnect switch, ensure it breaks the positive side of the battery, not on the negative side.
    And don't start the engine with the battery charger "on" (unless it's a trickle charger). It's all in my LINK in this forum post.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by LB9GTA View Post
    Thanks. I should also clarify.
    I have the battery in the truck, with a NHRA battery disconnect switch.
    I was thinking of hooking the main power and ground directly to the battery.
    And then the loose power wires (coil & fuel pump) to the power distribution block (which is from the switched side of the disconnect).
    I was hoping this way, when I shut off the switch, it kills the engine.
    The small red wire is the kill wire. When you switch that wire off then the EFI system shuts off including the ignition and fuel. NHRA rules can be an issue for how you wire up an EFI system. That's kind of a separate discussion so you might search on that or start a new thread on how to wire an EFI system to work properly and comply with NHRA rules. NHRA want the master disconnect to interrupt all power distribution, but Holley wants the ECU connected to the battery at all times. I don't know how Pro Stock guys wire their cars. Maybe NHRA looks the other way or maybe they are actually killing power to the ECU with the master disconnect? I always bypass the master disconnect when I install EFI, but I don't usually have to deal with aggressive NHRA tech inspectors.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyF View Post
    The small red wire is the kill wire. When you switch that wire off then the EFI system shuts off including the ignition and fuel.
    You can do that, but disconnecting the 14 AWG red wire only kills the fuel pump, fuel injectors and certain ignition types only (ignition coils - LSx, MOD & HEMI). The ECU remains powered on, which could be useful. The red/white wire is the actual ECU on/off switched (keyed) +12V signal. This also feeds switched +12V power to the 10-pin ignition connector.
    https://images.holley.com/271r960a-1.jpg (Holley EFI MPFI Main Harness Diagram)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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