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Thread: Electric Choke Holley 1-684

  1. #1

    Default Electric Choke Holley 1-684

    Hi, me again. How exactly does the fast idle cam works its way down to disengagement when the engine is warmed up? I find that when I drive somewhere and then start the car again, the fast idle is still engaged. So I turn the car off and pump the gas to get the fast idle to disengage before starting again.

    Another questions, sometimes I start the card cold by pumping the gas to lock the fast idle in, but somehow the car is revving high and stuck with high idle. Is there anyway to avoid this? It's the fast idle screw missing the cam and getting stuck to the right or left of the cam and jammed in there.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    Hi, me again. How exactly does the fast idle cam works its way down to disengagement when the engine is warmed up? I find that when I drive somewhere and then start the car again, the fast idle is still engaged. So I turn the car off and pump the gas to get the fast idle to disengage before starting again.
    No, you have to physically tap the throttle to kick the fast idle cam screw off its current step. That's how an electric choke functions.
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...on-t-idle-down (Related Forum Thread)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...hoke-Butterfly (Related Forum Thread)

    Another questions, sometimes I start the card cold by pumping the gas to lock the fast idle in, but somehow the car is revving high and stuck with high idle. Is there anyway to avoid this? It's the fast idle screw missing the cam and getting stuck to the right or left of the cam and jammed in there.
    You may need to bend/realign the choke linkage.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  3. #3

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    There is a screw. Will that help realign the choke linkage?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Well is it loose? If not, that's not the problem.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  5. #5

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    Here's the picture of the fast idle screw not making contact to the fast idle cam with steps. It's consistently jamming to the side of the cam. The cam usually makes its way down and then the car stalls before being allowed to warm up.

    To me, it feels like that bracket with the fast idle screw is allowed to wiggle left & right too much. I tried tightening the screw (not the fast idle screw, but the other screw from my previous post) on the bottom, but no effect on making better contact with the cam. If I loosen it then I get fuel seeping out. I'm thinking maybe the spring on the bracket with the screw on the bottom must be bad? I know it creates tension on the forward movement, but maybe it creates better alignment also? Here's a better picture to describe the spring I'm inquiring about.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6

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    It looks like it was put together wrong, and screws are supposed to be tight.

    General all the arms/brackets fit on the shafts one or two ways (one way right, second way wrong). The springs are the tricky parts to install. Your second picture with the spring shows the hooked end, not hooked to anything. It's too expensive to bend it into a hook. So the manufacturer would have just used a straight (cheaper) end. Hence why I say it's put together wrong.

  7. #7

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    I took the car to a place I went to a few years ago that works on carbs. They removed the choke housing and straightened the fast idle screw arm. So seems to be starting better now, and they fixed some vacuum leaks, so the idle is a heck of a lot better.

    However, they didn't think it was a big deal, but they mentioned that due to a lean cruise condition during cold startup, there's a slight surge while warming up. They said this might be due to lean cruise circuit or fuel computer controls. They said that would take a lot of more hours and money to diagnose & fix, so I said I would wait on that and see how a big deal this surge is.

    They said just give it some gas while warming up and the lean goes away. Any thoughts? How common is this cruise thing to go bad and how hard to replace?

  8. #8

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    I replaced the computer with a new one, so it must be the lean cruise circuit, right? What is a cruise circuit, and is it something that can be replaced or adjusted? I don't so much notice a surge as much, as the car needs the extra gas for the first minute when cold in order to maintain idle or else it will die. On another note, just sprung a antifreeze leak from the intake manifold gasket. Guess I have to tackle that first.

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