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Thread: 550-400 TBI stalling when stopping, and I need a replacement part.

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  1. #1
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    Default 550-400 TBI stalling when stopping, and I need a replacement part.

    After years of stalled progress, I'm finally getting my project vehicle going. So far it's mostly going well, but I'm having a problem. It starts & runs mostly just fine. The problem arises when I'm coming up to a stop. If I gradually brake and roll up to the stop, everything works fine. But if I brake hard, it has a tendency to stall.

    It's a mild AMC 401 V8 with an RV cam connected to a 700R4 transmission. I have the lockup torque converter working as it would in a factory GM car, with the vacuum switch and brake switch in place. So the lockup torque converter is unlocking properly. It's set to an idle speed of around 600 RPM and it will occasionally drop below that. Sometimes it catches itself and surges a little (which can be disconcerting when you don't expect it). But sometimes it will stall out. It restarts just fine. Part of the problem is that the handheld controller is basically dead. The LCD screen is shot and it doesn't appear to be working at all. So I can't monitor the system or change any settings. Is there any way to get just the replacement handheld or do I need to just eat the cost of getting a computer & handheld (554-116)?

  2. #2
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    All you need is the new 3.5" LCD Touchscreen unit (LINK).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    All you need is the new 3.5" LCD Touchscreen unit (LINK).
    I ordered the touchscreen and it showed up today. Got the firmware pushed back to the version that will talk with my ECU (0.4x) and I was able to poke around and see all the settings. But I'm trying to figure out what setting(s) I need to adjust to deal with my stalling issue. Do you have any suggestions of what to try?
    My first effort will be to just simply turn the idle speed up. It's set at 750, but I'm going to try notching it up a little to see what effect that has on the system as a whole.
    EDIT: Would I benefit from an ECU firmware upgrade? If so, which ones would be compatible with my ECU/TBI setup?
    Last edited by grimmjeeper; 09-16-2017 at 04:38 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by grimmjeeper View Post
    But I'm trying to figure out what setting(s) I need to adjust to deal with my stalling issue. Do you have any suggestions of what to try?
    In the Holley EFI software (LINK), look at where the live cursor moves to on the Base Fuel & Timing Tables.
    Determine if it's stalling due to a lean or rich condition, and manually tune this area of the Base Fuel Table.

    EDIT: Would I benefit from an ECU firmware upgrade? If so, which ones would be compatible with my ECU/TBI setup?
    First inform us of which EFI software/ECU firmware version you're using:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5760#post45760 (Determining EFI Software/ECU Firmware Versions)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5
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    Have you properly set the throttle shafts? If the throttle shafts are closed too much and it's using too much IAC to hold your Target Idle Speed, it can act up like you are describing. I shoot for a IAC Position of between 0%-10% at idle.

  6. #6
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    Jul 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    In the Holley EFI software (LINK), look at where the live cursor moves to on the Base Fuel & Timing Tables.
    Determine if it's stalling due to a lean or rich condition, and manually tune this area of the Base Fuel Table.
    I haven't had a chance yet to test it on the road. I'll do that when I can.

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    First inform us of which EFI software/ECU firmware version you're using:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5760#post45760 (Determining EFI Software/ECU Firmware Versions)
    ECU firmware:
    Serial number (I can send it if you need it.)
    Date Code 20111222
    Version 0.0.397
    Profile #1

    Controller firmware:
    Device type 10
    Device firmware 0.0.46
    The ECU is untouched (as far as new S/W) since I bought it 5 or so years ago. The controller had the 0.0.46 available from the factory and I changed it from the default 4.x that it was set up with.

    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    Have you properly set the throttle shafts? If the throttle shafts are closed too much and it's using too much IAC to hold your Target Idle Speed, it can act up like you are describing. I shoot for a IAC Position of between 0%-10% at idle.
    That I haven't done. I went & checked it. At the default of 750 RPM, it was at 35%. I set it up to 850 RPM and it was at 42%. So I guess adjusting the throttle is in order before I do anything else. I did notice that the engine runs smoother when set at 850 RPM.

    For reference here's the engine specs:
    AMC 401 ci V8 bored over .030".
    Stock heads, valves & exhaust.
    Comp Cams 10-201-4: 212°/212° @ .050" duration with .477"/.477" lift at the valve. Stock stamped rocker arms.

  7. #7
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    Jul 2016
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    Colorado Springs, CO
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    I'm using the 553-108 controller. You suggested I buy it in your first response to this thread. The original controller that came with my Avenger (not Terminator) died and won't turn on. That's what started this whole thread. And I know it can update the ECU. What I need to know is, where do I find the files to put on to the 553-108 SD card so that I can update the ECU.

  8. #8
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    Dec 2009
    Location
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    Contact Holley Tech Service (LINK).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #9
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    Ont. Canada
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    If I remember correctly, but don't quote me, I think the 3.5" touchscreen has the V4 firmware on it already.

  10. #10
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    Colorado Springs, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    If I remember correctly, but don't quote me, I think the 3.5" touchscreen has the V4 firmware on it already.
    Only for the touchscreen. It doesn't have any ECU firmware on it.

    So I had some time today and spent a bit of time going through the whole setup. Found a few things that were off like my injector settings, so I started over with a clean setup for the 550-400. I dialed up the throttle adjustment at the throttle body and went through the TPS setting Wizard a couple of times. The IAC at idle is mostly staying below 10%. And if it's above when I come to a stop light, it's no more than 12 or so.

    Better news is that it didn't even hint at stalling when I went through my test loop of highway & city streets. The RPM did drop into the 600s a couple of times coming up to a light, but the IAC kicked up and it tried to hover right around 750, which is the Target Idle Speed.

    I did notice that the IAC does kick up to 30% when cruising down the freeway. But the A/F ratio stayed right in the neighborhood it was supposed to be in, so I guess that's normal. I'm going to keep driving it this week. I'm sure that it has a lot of Learning to do yet to get itself completely dialed in. But I think for the moment, I've solved the stalling issue.

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