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Thread: Sniper Intermitent No Start

  1. #1

    Default Sniper Intermitent No Start

    New Holley Sniper install. First, serial number says 00000001. Really? I highly doubt I got number 1 in August of this year.

    First installed, started & ran great. Synchronized the timing and off for a cruise I went. Several stops & starts along the way to the local car show. Park at the car show for an hour, start the car to leave and after running for 5 mins the car just shut off and said "Searching For ECU" and every gauge in the monitor screen said "no data". This of course was a Saturday night. Waited patiently for Holley to open on Monday morning and made the call to tech support. Tech says the tune was erased and for me to download the EFI software from the support section, rebuild the tune and load it back into the car. So, I do and the car fires right up! Dazed & confused as to how or why my ECU just lost the tune, I went about my business.

    Few days later, I go to start the car again and while cranking I notice the RPM go from stall to sync and back to stall. Having a MSD magnetic pickup distributor, I decide to check the pickup for operation. I unhook the wires from the dist, jump the wires and remove to check for spark. I have spark and the fuel pump primes. Dammit! I think I have a bad pickup. So I replace the pickup, car starts and runs like a champ again. So today, I go to start the car again and wouldn't you know it. Stall, sync, stall, no start, again. This time I get out my multimeter and check the pickup instead of trusting my quick finding of the jumper wire to check spark. Now I have a good reading coming from the pickup and if I jump the green & purple, I can initiate the fuel pump prime and spark through the MSD box.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    17,643

    Default

    Install a Holley Dual Sync Distributor (LINK). I assume you're aware of the RPM signal problems associated with using a magnetic pickup distributor (Minimum Signal Voltage & Filtering parameters).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  3. #3

    Default

    No, I was not aware of these problems. Could I rewire the EFI using the magnetic pickup going into the CD box, and then grabbing the tach signal from the CD box into the purple wire? I'd rather not buy a $430.00 distributor if there's an alternate wiring method that accomplishes the same thing. Also, any idea why the ECU serial number is 00000001? Seem right?

  4. #4

    Default

    What kind of a car & engine do you have? For the SBC & BBC, there are cheaper alternatives. Additionally, the MSD can be made to work, it's just a lot of effort.

  5. #5

    Default

    Curious, what are the cheaper alternatives you're referring to?

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zacheus23 View Post
    Curious, what are the cheaper alternatives you're referring to?
    GM pioneered TBI-style fuel injection like the Sniper EFI back in the 80s. So you can get a designed for EFI, pre-phased distributor from Cardone as an OE replacement for around $100. Or if you are really cheap, you can get an GM HEI clone from eBay for less than $70 and weld the advance mechanisms shut. Details can be found here: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-e...cost-dist.html

  7. #7

    Default

    Thank you for that. I think I’ll give it a try.

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