Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 31 to 39 of 39

Thread: Bad WBO2 sensor?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ont. Canada
    Posts
    1,454

    Default

    I see your IEA is at 0. Did you make any changes to it to see what affect it had?

  2. #32

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    I see your IEA is at 0. Did you make any changes to it to see what affect it had?
    I do not know what this is. Where do I find it?
    89 Mustang GT
    Dart Block 363 with Borg S475 Turbo
    Holley Dominator EFI with 7" Digital Dash

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,105

    Default

    The Injector End Angle is found in the System ICF (Engine Parameters or Injector Phasing screen). However, it's not your intermittent problem anyway.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #34

    Default

    I finally got a chance to spend a little bit of time with the car last night. So I got in the car, fired it up and it ran, but not crisp like it supposed to be. I pulled it out of the garage and let it idle. I gave a few revs every now & again and it was lean popping, but not as bad as it normally did. I let the car get to full operating temp (which is 185°F). I kept looking at my IAC Position, and it was stuck on 35% (normally it sits at 0% at hot idle), which I know is wrong but never really gave me a problem. I revved it a few more times and I can tell the engine isn't happy. So I screwed the throttle blade in a 1/4 turn or so. The IAC Position started to drop. I turned the car off and did a TPS Autoset. Fired the car up and it ran much better. I let it sit and idle for awhile and revved it now & then, and the lean pop went away. I tried to mess with the throttle blade screw by making small tweaks to get that 5% IAC, but I just could not. One more TPS Autoset and off for a test drive I went. Car ran perfect. I put roughly 15 miles on the car and turned the car on & off multiple times.

    I'm still skeptical about the entire situation. I'll head back over where I keep the car in a few days and see how it does again. Is it just me or does anyone else want to pull their hair out sometimes because of these cars. Ugh, I went for three or so more weeks of a car not wanting to run and laboring to stay running, to running good till fully warmed up then going to crap, to making a small 1/4 turn throttle blade adjustment and being able to drive it for 15 miles with no issue. Only complaint I have now is that the car is idling high and is not following target idle. No idea how to get the IAC to control my idle like it's supposed to.
    Last edited by Joeyman; 09-21-2017 at 08:24 AM.
    89 Mustang GT
    Dart Block 363 with Borg S475 Turbo
    Holley Dominator EFI with 7" Digital Dash

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,105

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joeyman View Post
    So I screwed the throttle blade in a 1/4 turn or so. The IAC Position started to drop. I turned the car off and did a TPS Autoset. Fired the car up and it ran much better. I let it sit and idle for awhile and revved it now & then, and the lean pop went away. One more TPS Autoset and off for a test drive I went. Car ran perfect. I put roughly 15 miles on the car and turned the car on & off multiple times.
    Of course, you can't choke the engine like that.

    I tried to mess with the throttle blade screw by making small tweaks to get that 5% IAC, but I just could not.
    Only complaint I have now is that the car is idling high and is not following target idle. No idea how to get the IAC to control my idle like it's supposed to.
    This is a clue. Determine why this is happening, and you'll find the problem.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (General IAC Information - Read "IAC NOTES")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    * Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting *
    Sometimes the throttle blades are so far off adjustment, turning the idle speed screw triggers the IAC Hold Position.
    If this happens, the throttle blades will require a baseline setting without the IAC valve altering this adjustment.
    This must be accomplished with the engine at hot idle. Be careful of dangerous fan and belt driven components.
    With the air filter previously removed, block off the IAC air inlet port with your finger or a strong piece of tape.
    While temporarily ignoring the IAC Position, adjust the idle speed screw to the Target Idle Speed RPM (in Idle ICF).
    Turn engine off (remove tape). With the key-on/engine-off, perform a TPS Autoset. Cycle key off & restart engine.
    Now only a minute adjustment will be required to achieve an IAC Position of about 5%. Perform a final TPS Autoset.
    I would like to do this here. I struggle with understanding what hole I must tape off? That's what is confusing to me. Am I suppose to remove the IAC from the throttle body?
    89 Mustang GT
    Dart Block 363 with Borg S475 Turbo
    Holley Dominator EFI with 7" Digital Dash

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,105

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joeyman View Post
    I struggle with understanding what hole I must tape off? That's what is confusing to me.
    If you don't know what the IAC air inlet port is, you'll need someone to help you.

    Am I suppose to remove the IAC from the throttle body?
    No.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #38

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    If you don't know what the IAC air inlet port is, you'll need someone to help you.
    I'm having a brain fart. I understand now. I'll just remove the cold side piping, tape off the hole up inside the throttle body, reassemble all the cold side stuff and begin adjusting the idle speed screw. I'll report back to you all. Thanks for all the help.
    Last edited by Joeyman; 09-21-2017 at 02:30 PM.
    89 Mustang GT
    Dart Block 363 with Borg S475 Turbo
    Holley Dominator EFI with 7" Digital Dash

  9. #39

    Default

    So Saturday 9/23/17 I went over and fired the car up just to see how it was doing. I had successfully drove the car for 10-15 miles on 9/20/17. Well low & behold it was running badly again for no reason at all. I struggled to even back the car up into the storage building (lean condition).

    I went back on 9/24/17, armed myself with a tool box and some duct tape to block off the IAC. After putting the tape over the hole and reinstalling the cold side, car wouldn't start whatsoever. I tried to tweak the throttle blade position several different times, also TPS Autoset along with it. NO LUCK. So I took the tape off put everything back together, and after several tries the car fired up ran like crap, to eventually running good and idling almost perfect. Only thing that stuck out is that in the Learn Table idle area was reading -17.

    I backed the car up locked the door to the storage unit. I have an appointment with dyno tune shop for Oct 16th. I GIVE UP!
    89 Mustang GT
    Dart Block 363 with Borg S475 Turbo
    Holley Dominator EFI with 7" Digital Dash

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us