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Thread: Transmission Wiring TCC Lockup

  1. #1

    Default Transmission Wiring TCC Lockup

    I'm having trouble getting TCC Lockup working correctly on my 4L60E. I have an indicator light programmed in my Digital Dash to indicate converter lockup and only see it come on when I apply the brakes. Reading the instructions, it states "Brake Switch (Gray) – Wired to the brake light switch. This must be installed to a +12V source (as most brake light switches are). This input is used to unlock the torque converter when the brakes are applied." I assume this means to wire to the brake light side of the switch, so when brakes are applied the gray wire gets +12V applied? Wiring to the other side of the switch would apply +12V all the time, no matter the brake pedal position. Am I understanding this correctly? Any help as always is appreciated. MIKE

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by vette09 View Post
    I assume this means to wire to the brake light side of the switch, so when brakes are applied the gray wire gets +12V applied?
    Yes, +12V only when brakes are applied.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the quick reply. I have +12V on gray wire, until I hit the brakes and then nothing. Any reason why this would cause the fuel pump to turn off. Starting to test new engine combination and had problem with it stalling when I stopped. Datalog showed it lost fuel pressure then pick back up after foot was off the brake. I'll fix the gray wire and report back. Thanks again.

  4. #4

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    Amazing what correct wiring and some fuel will do! Fixed gray wire and TCC works perfect. Adding some fuel fixed fuel pressure issue. 10 gallons don't go as far as it used to.
    Would it be possible to use the other wire as a crude brake sensor? Constant +12V until brakes are applied, then goes to 0V when brake is applied. I have plenty of Inputs.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by vette09 View Post
    Would it be possible to use the other wire as a crude brake sensor? Constant +12V until brakes are applied, then goes to 0V when brake is applied. I have plenty of Inputs.
    The "other" brake switch wire is a constant +12V when you're on or off the brake pedal. You can run the same brake switch wire (as the gray wire) to an Input for your brake sensor Input.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  6. #6

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    The "other" wire goes to 0V when brake is applied. Thought it would be easier to use than splicing into new gray wire.

  7. #7

    Default

    Bringing up an old thread as I'm curious on this as well. I don't see my TCC come on with my 4L80E either. And I'm wondering if mine has the same issue. The pigtail harness I have on the brake switch has +12V key on regardless of pedal position. The other wire, which has the gray wire connected, has +12V with key on. Depressing brake pedal, goes to 0V. Is this correct? Or should it be 0V until brake is depressed then seeing +12V? I believe it's the latter.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 72tutone View Post
    The pigtail harness I have on the brake switch has +12V key on regardless of pedal position.
    Well that doesn't seem right.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  9. #9

    Default

    It's a pigtail with two connections. The kit came with two wires. A red for key on, +12V, and the other is a purple wire which is to connect to the TCC connector. Which in my case is the gray switch from the Terminator X Max. So key on +12V on the red wire. The purple wire (gray) also has +12V. When you depress the brake pedal it goes from +12V - 0V. Release pedal, back to +12V. Pic attached for the brake light switch. My case, this is a Gen III. So TCC wire to the purple.

    UPDATE: I think I found the issue.
    Brake Switch Signal - For automatics with lockup converter, the PCM needs signal when brake pedal is pressed. However, the signal needed is opposite how you're brake lights work. The PCM wants +12V constant on this wire when brake IS NOT pressed, and OPEN Circuit when the brake IS pressed. If you vehicle was equipped with a lockup transmission to begin with, you probably already have the proper normally closed switch mounted by your brake light switch. If you do not, you can use a relay to perform the same thing. On most relays, there are 5 terminals, 2 of them turn the relay ON when provided ground/power. There are then a normally open leg and a normally closed leg on the relay and a supply. By feeding +12V on the supply leg, and hooking the Brake Switch Signal wire to the normally closed leg, you'll now have the correct signal for the PCM. When the brake is pressed, +12V flows to brake lights, tap into this wire, and run it to the relay to turn the relay on. This will cause the normally closed leg to become open, thus turning OFF the +12V signal to the PCM. When you release the brake pedal, the relay will turn OFF, and then feed +12V to the PCM. Thus, my standard way is backwards from how Holley wants it.
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