Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 32

Thread: Major issues, started small and got worse.

  1. #1

    Default Major issues, started small and got worse.

    I installed my Sniper EFI a few months back on my Mustang and everything has been fine. I have not had any real issues with it aside from just getting the idle tuning right. I'm running a MSD 6AL-2 Programmable ignition and using the MSD to control my timing.
    Here is my issue. Today, I started the car, back it out of the garage and let it run for a minutes. Out of know where, the idle shoots up for a few seconds, then settles back down. I got into the car and it seemed fine, but then it did again a few minutes later. After that it started doing it more and frequently. I took the car out to the store and it tried to stall at the light. I took it right back to investigate it further. When it happens, I notice the tach starts to dance around erratically, the TPS PID goes red and reads in the negatives, the monitors will real quick flash to red and say "no data" the AFR says "heating", the fuel pressure starts to goes crazy bouncing around. I checked the wiring, no problems there. Now it will start and run for a second or two, then stalls. Also, there is a little red dot next to the TPS PID on the monitor, I never noticed that before.

    EDIT: I totally forgot that I phased my distributor the other day because I was having some hard start/kick back issues when hot. I had not driven the car since then. I decided to put it back to the way it was. I reinstalled the old rotor. (Phasing is pretty far out.) I believe this MIGHT be an MSD issue. My theory is that with it being phased properly, the spark is really strong like its supposed to be and causing and RFI concern. I do have the MSD distributor pickup wires to the MSD box run along with the Sniper EFI wires through the firewall. I think that I don't have this issue with the original unphased setting because the spark it spread out and thus making it weaker, if that makes sense. Anyway, should the pickup wires running from the distributor to the MSD box be run on the other side of the car, not with the Sniper harness? Am I on the right track? The car seems to run perfectly fine with everything put back to way I had it before I phased the distributor.
    Last edited by venomous121; 07-23-2017 at 05:46 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    Try doing a datalog of it acting up so you can get a better idea of what is going on. If you contact Holley Tech they will need one. Jimmy

  3. #3

    Default

    This is a classic case of RF interference, with the negative TPS percentage and the "no data" flashing. The car runs fine with the standard non-phaseable rotor with the ignition setup as "CD Box"?

    I've seen in multiple instances now where the rotor was not phased correctly, and it caused the RF interference. When it's out of phase, the spark has to jump a larger gap and once phased properly everything worked as it should. What were the steps taken to phase the rotor? Here's a video that you may find helpful.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2zfmemVKQE. Matt
    Last edited by Matt; 07-24-2017 at 03:51 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    The rotor is phased correctly for sure, I followed the instructions from MSD on their YouTube page. After messing with it more last night, I noticed that the new adjustable rotors carbon button (the metal conductor that contacts the spring inside of the cap that touches the coil tower), was flat and not at a bent angle like it should be. The spark is jumping the gap when there should be no gap. This has to be the root cause of the problem. It's the only things left and I'm pretty sure that would cause an RFI issue. I'm going to bend the conductor so it contacts the cap and re-install again tonight and see if it fixes it. I'll post my results later on.

  5. #5

    Default

    So I fixed the rotor tonight and got it back in the car. It ran fine for about 5 minutes. Then it started acting up again. I have the rotor lined up centered with the #1 tower. I tried moving rotor tip to the leading edge & trailing edge of the tower, same results. I even moved it to where the stock rotor sits and it still acts up. I reinstalled the regular rotor and the car runs fine. Why would a rotor cause this? It doesn't make any sense to me at all. The rotor I'm using is the 8421, not the 84211---> (the one with the timing marks). Any ideas? I really would like to use the adjustable rotor because I want to start using the Sniper for timing control.

  6. #6

    Default

    I had the same with my MSD adjustable rotor 84211, even when set to factory location it would cause issues. I swapped back to the regular rotor and all good (apart from phasing being out). Maybe something to do with the design of the adjustable rotor. The verdict is to ditch the MSD for the Holley dual sync distributor.

  7. #7

    Default

    I have never tried the MSD, but I did install a Holley Dual Sync a few weeks ago with no problems. I highly recommend it.

  8. #8

    Default

    If you're looking for a cheap, albeit not officially supported, alternative to the Holley Dual Sync distributor, there are knockoff GM big cap HEI distributors available for Ford on eBay. You'll have to phase it manually using a drill & welder (lock up mechanical advance with a spot weld, lock vacuum advance with a screw while phasing the rotor), but it might be worth a try at $60 or so, compared to the Dual Sync distributor's price tag.
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...1445#post91445
    http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-e...nce-angle.html

  9. #9

    Default

    I'm going to give MSD a call today and see if they have any feedback on this. It really sucks because I have everything I need and shouldn't have to buy the Dual Sync. Hopefully they can give me a solution.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr_Grip View Post
    If you're looking for a cheap, albeit not officially supported, alternative to the Holley Dual Sync distributor, there are knockoff GM big cap HEI distributors available for Ford on eBay. You'll have to phase it manually using a drill & welder (lock up mechanical advance with a spot weld, lock vacuum advance with a screw while phasing the rotor), but it might be worth a try at $60 or so, compared to the Dual Sync distributor's price tag.
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...1445#post91445
    http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-e...nce-angle.html
    That's interesting. What makes these unique? Is it because they use a Hall-Effect instead of a magnetic pickup?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us