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Thread: Vehicle died, won't restart.

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  1. Default Vehicle died, won't restart.

    Hey there, had my Avenger EFI installed for a long while when last week out of the blue, it died while driving & wouldn't restart. Cranks but won't fire up. Wore my battery down troubleshooting, so I charged it up and even with a vehicle jumping it it wouldn't start, specifically it won't spark the plugs. Got a new coil, no fix. Checked fuel pressure, all good.

    Let it sit for a week and went to start it today with a jump, and it fired right up. Idled a bit roughly to about 130° coolant temp and shut down and won't restart again. Battery voltage is low, but my alternator is good, when running I'm at 14.4V. With jump, it cranks at +13V. What could I be looking at here?

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,716

    Default

    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5760#post45760 (Scroll down to "Typical No-Start Checks".)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    I'd look for a loose ground. Andrew

  4. Default

    Been a while, now coming back to this issue (truck still won't start). I'm charging up my laptop to take out to the truck, but I notice after hooking up the battery and turning the ignition on that the handheld tuner/controller screen is dim. Is this a clue for something I should be looking for?

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,716

    Default

    Which style touchscreen unit do you have? If you have the early style handheld controller (LINK), the new style 3.5" LCD touchscreen (LINK) isn't too expensive, and it's much better!
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Which style touchscreen unit do you have? If you have the early style handheld controller (LINK), the new style 3.5" LCD touchscreen (LINK) isn't too expensive, and it's much better!
    I have the earlier, smaller handheld. It has 4 wires, 2 orange on a plug and a loose white and black. I've verified the white & black are power & ground (and both connections are good).

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5760#post45760 (Scroll down to "Typical No-Start Checks".)
    Reviewed the Typical No-Start Checks (pasted below) and answered in-line to the best of my abilities:
    Is the battery fully charged?
    Yes, I pulled the battery out of my other truck. Avenger EFI sees it as having 13.5V.

    Have you performed a TPS Autoset?
    I have in the past, yes, but not now and not right before it “died”.

    Is the engine cranking fast enough (100+ RPM)?
    Yes.

    Does the Data Monitor display legitimate cranking RPM?
    Yes.

    Does the Data Monitor display legitimate sensor values?
    Yes, so does the laptop for that matter.

    Does a Datalog indicate any RPM Errors?
    Did not perform/capture datalog, but system diagnostic via laptop indicates all systems PASSED.

    Is the throttle blade(s) open far enough to start?
    Need a helper to see that.

    Are the crank & cam sensor/reluctor air gaps set correctly?
    Does not apply to my setup AFAIK.

    Do the crank & cam sensors have power & ground?
    Does not apply to my setup AFAIK.

    Keyed +12V red/white wire powered when cranking?
    Yes.

    Fuel pressure set to proper psi (Actual System Pressure)?
    Yes, I spent plenty of time on this in the past to ensure it was set correctly.

    Are the fuel injectors spraying fuel?
    I don’t think so, not at this point, throttle plates are dry.

    Does the fuel pump prime for 5 seconds at key-on?
    Yes.

    Is the ECU controlling timing?
    Yes.

    Does a timing light indicate there's spark/ignition?
    Can’t get that far.

    What does your ignition system consist of?
    GM Large Cap HEI distributor, coil - all of which were operational for years before it “died”.

    Correct Ignition Type entered in Ignition Parameters?
    Yes.

    Are the spark plugs fuel fouled/wet?
    No.

    Is the ignition timing synchronized with the ECU?
    AFAIK, yes.

    Are you running in sequential mode? If so, check the cam sync sensor.
    No.

    Air or Coolant Temp Enrichment Modifiers erroneously set to 0% or 70%?
    I don’t think so, but it was running for years before it suddenly “died”.

    Is it correctly wired as shown in the wiring manual? (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - LINK)
    Yes, it was running for years before it “died”.

    Disconnect the ECU Main Power Harness for 20 minutes. This "resets" some unusual ECU issues.
    http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...0#post26386690 (Incorrect Digital Falling Signals - 4x Crank & 1x Cam)
    Done, no change.

    NOT DONE:
    • If Data Monitor doesn't display consistent RPM, start troubleshooting the crank sensor.
    If all EFI wiring is correct, I'd record a Datalog and if necessary, a System Log also:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....p-SL-Data-Logs (Sensor Diagnostics & Datalogs)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This! (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read Steps #1-#6!)

    QUESTIONS
    Remind me, what is the minimum voltage the ECU wants to see before it will start the vehicle?
    How do I know my ECU is healthy, not corrupted or damaged? (I don't suspect it is bad but it would be a good test to do.)
    Is there a special way to jump start a vehicle with an Avenger EFI in it?
    Last edited by octanejunkie; 04-07-2019 at 07:01 PM.

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  7. Default

    Found fuel pressure at TB to be low, replaced fuel filters. Now I'm getting 21 psi at the TB, but the truck still won't start. Reran Wizard, no luck. Injectors are not spraying at all. If I pour some fuel into the TB and open throttle blades truck wants to start. What is preventing the injectors from spraying?

    UPDATE: I removed the TB, went back to the old carb & fuel pump, problem solved.

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

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