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Thread: Vehicle died, won't restart.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    20,522

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    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    True! Please, what is the MINIMUM voltage the Avenger needs to see from the battery to operate?
    I think it's about 8 volts.

    The reason I ask about jump starting is that if I try to crank the truck two or three times, battery voltage drops significantly. I don't want to keep having to pull the battery to recharge it and would rather do so in the car, or ala jump start if possible.
    So jump start it if you need to.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. Default

    Thanks. Truck still won't start, even with a jump. I'll focus on ignition components next and try fresh fuel.

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    20,522

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    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    Thanks. Truck still won't start, even with a jump.
    I know, I didn't think it was the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    GM Large Cap HEI distributor, coil - all of which were operational for years before it “died”.
    I'd troubleshoot that internal ignition module first. If using a GM small cap HEI distributor, a genuine GM ignition module should be used.

    Defective ignition modules - common problem with MSD 8366 distributors.
    Replace the ignition module with a genuine GM ignition module.
    (This same rationale applies to Ford TFI distributors too.)
    ‒ Ignition module for MSD 8366 Pro-Billet Distributors:
    GM 19179578
    ACDelco D1943A
    http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...CO_D1943A.html
    http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...EI_modules.jpg
    ‒ I'd also verify the GM HEI module polarity is wired correctly:
    https://forums.msdperformance.com/sh...0681#post10681
    http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm
    ‒ Apply heat sink (thermal conductive) paste on the bottom of the module before installing it.
    Often times, dielectric grease is wrongly used and will lead to an overheated (failed) module.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    I know, I didn't think it was the problem. I'd troubleshoot that internal ignition module first. If using a GM small cap HEI distributor, a genuine GM ignition module should be used.

    Defective ignition modules - common problem with MSD 8366 distributors.
    Replace the ignition module with a genuine GM ignition module.
    (This same rationale applies to Ford TFI distributors too.)
    ‒ Ignition module for MSD 8366 Pro-Billet Distributors:
    GM 19179578
    ACDelco D1943A
    http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...CO_D1943A.html
    http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...EI_modules.jpg
    ‒ I'd also verify the GM HEI module polarity is wired correctly:
    https://forums.msdperformance.com/sh...0681#post10681
    http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm
    ‒ Apply heat sink (thermal conductive) paste on the bottom of the module before installing it.
    Often times, dielectric grease is wrongly used and will lead to an overheated (failed) module.
    Thanks for this, Danny, I suspect the same. Switching back to a regular HEI distributor because that's what I have on hand. My handheld is almost useless. How can I reprogram the ECU with my laptop to remote computer controlled ignition setting?

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    20,522

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    How can I reprogram the ECU with my laptop to remote computer controlled ignition setting?
    The Avenger, Terminator & HP ECUs are the same. Read last framed information: http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read Steps #1-#6!)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. Default

    Read & followed steps. Configured ECU for coil. Installed coil-in-cap HEI distributor (was good when replaced with computer controlled distributor) - still won't start. While cranking, RPM is 350-400, but the throttle blades don't open and injectors don't spray. Is there an easy way to go back to square one with factory default ECU setting? Is it worth it? How do I do that?
    Last edited by octanejunkie; 04-14-2019 at 06:12 PM.

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  7. Default

    Found fuel pressure at TB to be low, replaced fuel filters. Now I'm getting 21 psi at the TB, but the truck still won't start. Reran Wizard, no luck. Injectors are not spraying at all. If I pour some fuel into the TB and open throttle blades truck wants to start. What is preventing the injectors from spraying?

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