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I have a holley 1460 that i bought a rebuild kit for. After putting it back together and bolting it on the engine (327), I cant get it to idle under 2000rpm. I have tried switching power valves and cant come up with any results. I know a vacuum leak could cause this but the engine itself does not have any vacuum leaks as it runs perfect with other carbs, so the problem is in the carb itself. Where are some common vacuum leaks on the carb I should check for?
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Check the secondary throttle shaft for excessive opening.
Also, ensure the idle speed screw isn't somehow stuck on the fast idle cam.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires. -
Hello, new to the Holley forum. I'm having a similar problem with a Quick Fuel SS-750-AN (4150) after a tear down and reassembly. The carb is on my boat and has very few hours on it (not a worn out carb), but after 2 winters of sitting it required a good cleaning.
During disassembly I did not touch the idle adjustment screw or any other adjustment screws except the 4 corner idle screws which were at 1-1/4 turns out and reset there.
After the rebuild, upon startup it goes to what must be near wide open throttle? Throttle linkage checks out OK, butterflies are all closed, but still stays at a very high RPM. Everything went together just fine. Any ideas on what to look for? Thanks in advance.Comment
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Could you please start a new thread instead of adding to 8 year old threads in the future?
Now everybody else gets to read this, and then gets to your subject.
What engine, camshaft, compression, etc?
What is "High RPM", and what have you done to attempt to slow it down?
Is the throttle body to main body gasket correct?
For the thousands of carbs I've built or rebuilt, I have not had an issue like this.
Hopefully others will chime in. GaryLast edited by Gaz64; 05-19-2020, 06:37 PM.Regards, GaryComment
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First, sorry to tick you off Gary. All the other forums I've ever been on get pissed when you start a new thread without first researching and using an existing thread on the same topic. Second, I have no idea what my engine specs have to do with a carb issue.
Anyway, this morning I final took the carb back apart to verify everything was correct. Ah ha, here's the problem, the fast idle cam assembly was not over the end of the choke rod resulting in the the throttle being hung open when the throttle was opened and released.
Well, this was maybe my 5th carb rebuild, I don't have thousands under my belt, but I have enough experience to know it was something in the carb reassembly and not the engine or gaskets.
Big thanks to everybody on this forum for helping out.Comment
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Good to hear you found your issue. A torch down the throttle bores would have shown that one side was more open. And then the throttle stop screws. GaryRegards, GaryComment
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