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Thread: HP EFI questions

  1. #21

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    Also, do I need to register my product with Holley, and where do I do it if I need to?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DButler View Post
    The manual said the AFR left should read ...heating, but it read initializing. is this correct or is my WBO2 sensor bad?
    Yes, that's fine.

    Also I assumed Holley sent a Bosch sensor because it didn't say on sensor so this is what i programmed my tune to?
    Yes, the Bosch wideband O2 sensor is the "default" sensor.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....=7089#post7089

    My universal Holley gauge I have setup for fuel psi was reading correct psi but when I would give the car gas the bars would go from blue to red and the gauge would read a negative number and then when I left off it would read proper fuel psi. what do i need to do to fix this?
    Is the fuel pressure actually fluctuating like that?

    Also the car was rich trying to start I would have to smash the gas pedal some to get it to crank like it was overloading. I have 60 lb injectors because I am twin turbo. I used the base calibration tune for 36lb injectors to crank it NA could this be the problem why it is rich on start?
    Did you update these fuel pressure/injector changes in the Engine Parameters ("Actual System Pressure" & Fuel Injector Info)?

    Also do I need to register my product with Holley and where do I do it if I need to?
    http://www.holley.com/TechService/Wa...gistration.asp
    Last edited by Danny Cabral; 06-29-2012 at 10:53 AM.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #23

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    The fuel psi sensor already showed Holley SS sensor so I left it as is. I don't think my fuel psi is fluctuating because I can kick pump on without car running and it will maintain a constant 43 psi until I turn it off. I'm running an Aeromotive A1000 pump. I don't have it wired into the Holley main harness but this should be a problem should it? I thought this was an option if you wanted the computer to kick pump on and off. I can turn switch on and when pump kicks on it will read 43 psi, when I crank car the bars will flash and then it will read those numbers and when car cranks and tries to idle it will go read 43 psi but when I hit gas it goes negative and flashes all bars. I have 60 lb/hr injectors do I just need change the parameters from 36 lb/hr to 60 lb/hr? Also what do I need to do about fuel psi lower it? Do I need to call my guy who furnished injectors and ask him the proper fuel psi? the gauge has me puzzled. I'm coming from tank with -10 an into a Y-block and from there feeding back of each fuel rail with -8 then in front of rails is feeding -8 to fuel regulator and returning out of the bottom with -8 to tank so I have it plumbed correctly I think. I think it is something with the way i programmed the gauge when I set parameters for the bars.

  4. #24

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    Fuel psi reads fine on my mechanical gauge I have on regulator, it does go haywire until the bars start to move.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DButler View Post
    Fuel psi reads fine on my mechanical gauge I have on regulator, it does go haywire until the bars start to move.
    Oh, you're referring to the Holley Universal Gauge: http://www.holley.com/553-100.asp
    If your wiring is intact, and it's correctly programmed, call Holley Tech (270-781-9741)
    or
    email Tech Service: http://www.holley.com/TechService/TechRequest.asp
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #26

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    I have a MSD magnetic pickup distributor with 6AL. I want my Holley to control timing and right now I have a yellow wire plugged into the rpm signal. How can I make my Holley control timing with this? Dual sync, crank trigger? Or can I do it without buying anything else? I'd like to do this so I don't have to buy anything else. Let me know and what kind of dual sync if I have to buy one?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DButler View Post
    I have a MSD magnetic pickup distributor with 6AL. I am wanting my Holley to control timing and right now I have a yellow wire plugged into the rpm signal. How can I make my Holley control timing with this?
    Excerpt from Holley EFI manual:
    NOTE - It is not advised to use a magnetic pickup distributor to directly feed the magnetic trigger input of the ECU. If the
    magnetic pickup distributor is connected to the ECU via the inductive pickup trigger wires, the pickup/rotor/cap phasing
    must be corrected. This operation may require a phaseable cap or rotor or possibly machining to the distributor and is
    therefore beyond the scope of most users. Even with the phasing corrected, the electrical noise inside the cap
    (due to the high voltage cap & rotor terminals) may be strong enough to cause electrical noise interference.
    It is advised to use a crank trigger system or a computer-controlled distributor.

    Dual sync, crank trigger? or can i do it without buying anything else? i would like to do this so I don't have to buy anything else. Let me know and what kind of dual sync if I have to buy one?
    A small-cap GM HEI distributor will give you computer controlled timing (a good decision with a forced induction engine), but not sequential capable.
    Or you can use a dual-sync distributor, such as a FAST unit, with or without sequential injection (sequential requires a cam sync sensor).
    Or, install a crank trigger (such as Holley's DIS or MSD's Flying Magnet) and if sequential is desired, a cam sync sensor from EFI Connection:
    http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=623
    http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1183
    http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/58x.aspx
    (Scroll to end of page.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #28

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    Say I get the phasing properly done and all, can this physically mess the ECU up?
    I'll probably go GM small cap. Just curious if it will physically mess the ECU up.
    If not, I may try it and just see, before I spend more money.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DButler View Post
    Say I get the phasing properly done and all, can this physically mess the ECU up?
    It doesn't necessarily damage the ECU, however, it can cause the ECU to "reset"
    itself, which could be very harmful to a "loaded" engine (fuel & air) at high RPM.

    If not, I may try it and just see, before I spend more money.
    Some people have successful results, but others do not.
    If you try it, datalog the results and look for RPM Errors:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....p-SL-Data-Logs
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. #30

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    Which harness is needed to connect to distributor?

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