I've attached which diagram I'm using, and pointed to what I need. I also went to page 15 and boxed in what it said about magnetic pickup.
HP EFI questions
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OK, I think I understand what you're implying.
If you already have the Magnetic Pickup Ignition Harness 558-303: http://www.holley.com/558-303.asp,
then you just need to add a wire to cavity "A", using one of the spare terminals.
However, that diagram you posted is for a magnetic pickup distributor NOT controlling timing.
If this is the case, you don't need the 558-303, because the magnetic trigger wires don't connect to the ECU.
You just need this: http://www.holley.com/558-304.asp, and cut off the small connector because you're not using a GM HEI distributor.
Excerpt from Holley EFI manual:
NOTE - It is not advised to use a magnetic pickup distributor to directly feed the magnetic trigger input of the ECU. If the
magnetic pickup distributor is connected to the ECU via the inductive pickup trigger wires, the pickup/rotor/cap phasing
must be corrected. This operation may require a phaseable cap or rotor or possibly machining to the distributor and is
therefore beyond the scope of most users. Even with the phasing corrected, the electrical noise inside the cap
(due to the high voltage cap & rotor terminals) may be strong enough to cause electrical noise interference.
It is advised to use a crank trigger system or a computer-controlled distributor.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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I need the second part you listed. I'm not plugging distributor into ECU it will plug into MSD. I just need this small adapter to plug into the ignition part on main harness. I can then cut the small end off and wire the yellow/black wire to my tach signal. All the other three wires I will not need. MSD will be controlling timing, I have just got to get an RPM signal to the ECU? This is the reasoning for tying into the tach signal?
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Originally posted by DButler View PostI need the second part you listed. I am not plugging distributor into ECU it will plug into MSD. I just need this small adapter to plug into the ignition part on main harness. I can then cut the small end off and wire the yellow/black wire to my tach signal. All the other three wires I will not need.
The 558-303 harness isn't necessary because the MSD 6AL harness will wire directly to the distributor.
MSD will be controlling timing, I have just got to get an rpm signal to the ECU? This is the reasoning for tying into the tach signal?May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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I finally got my setup running. I have a couple questions, when I checked my sensors everything showed what it was suppose to compared to the Quick Start manual. The manual said the AFR left should read ...heating, but it read initializing. is this correct or is my WBO2 sensor bad? Also, I assumed Holley sent a Bosch sensor because it didn't say on sensor so this is what I programmed my tune to? my universal Holley gauge I have setup for fuel psi was reading correct psi, but when I would give the car gas the bars would go from blue to read and the gauge would read a negative number and then when I left off it would read proper fuel psi. What do I need to do to fix this? Also, the car was rich trying to start I would have to smash the gas pedal some to get it to crank like it was overloading. I have 60 lb/hr injectors because I'm twin turbo. I used the base calibration tune for 36 lb/hr injectors to crank it NA could this be the problem why it is rich on start?
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Originally posted by DButler View PostThe manual said the AFR left should read ...heating, but it read initializing. is this correct or is my WBO2 sensor bad?
Also I assumed Holley sent a Bosch sensor because it didn't say on sensor so this is what i programmed my tune to?
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....=7089#post7089
My universal Holley gauge I have setup for fuel psi was reading correct psi but when I would give the car gas the bars would go from blue to red and the gauge would read a negative number and then when I left off it would read proper fuel psi. what do i need to do to fix this?
Also the car was rich trying to start I would have to smash the gas pedal some to get it to crank like it was overloading. I have 60 lb injectors because I am twin turbo. I used the base calibration tune for 36lb injectors to crank it NA could this be the problem why it is rich on start?
Also do I need to register my product with Holley and where do I do it if I need to?Last edited by Danny Cabral; 06-29-2012, 10:53 AM.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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The fuel psi sensor already showed Holley SS sensor so I left it as is. I don't think my fuel psi is fluctuating because I can kick pump on without car running and it will maintain a constant 43 psi until I turn it off. I'm running an Aeromotive A1000 pump. I don't have it wired into the Holley main harness but this should be a problem should it? I thought this was an option if you wanted the computer to kick pump on and off. I can turn switch on and when pump kicks on it will read 43 psi, when I crank car the bars will flash and then it will read those numbers and when car cranks and tries to idle it will go read 43 psi but when I hit gas it goes negative and flashes all bars. I have 60 lb/hr injectors do I just need change the parameters from 36 lb/hr to 60 lb/hr? Also what do I need to do about fuel psi lower it? Do I need to call my guy who furnished injectors and ask him the proper fuel psi? the gauge has me puzzled. I'm coming from tank with -10 an into a Y-block and from there feeding back of each fuel rail with -8 then in front of rails is feeding -8 to fuel regulator and returning out of the bottom with -8 to tank so I have it plumbed correctly I think. I think it is something with the way i programmed the gauge when I set parameters for the bars.
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Originally posted by DButler View PostFuel psi reads fine on my mechanical gauge I have on regulator, it does go haywire until the bars start to move.
If your wiring is intact, and it's correctly programmed, call Holley Tech (270-781-9741)
or email Tech Service: http://www.holley.com/TechService/TechRequest.aspMay God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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I have a MSD magnetic pickup distributor with 6AL. I want my Holley to control timing and right now I have a yellow wire plugged into the rpm signal. How can I make my Holley control timing with this? Dual sync, crank trigger? Or can I do it without buying anything else? I'd like to do this so I don't have to buy anything else. Let me know and what kind of dual sync if I have to buy one?
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Originally posted by DButler View PostI have a MSD magnetic pickup distributor with 6AL. I am wanting my Holley to control timing and right now I have a yellow wire plugged into the rpm signal. How can I make my Holley control timing with this?
NOTE - It is not advised to use a magnetic pickup distributor to directly feed the magnetic trigger input of the ECU. If the
magnetic pickup distributor is connected to the ECU via the inductive pickup trigger wires, the pickup/rotor/cap phasing
must be corrected. This operation may require a phaseable cap or rotor or possibly machining to the distributor and is
therefore beyond the scope of most users. Even with the phasing corrected, the electrical noise inside the cap
(due to the high voltage cap & rotor terminals) may be strong enough to cause electrical noise interference.
It is advised to use a crank trigger system or a computer-controlled distributor.
Dual sync, crank trigger? or can i do it without buying anything else? i would like to do this so I don't have to buy anything else. Let me know and what kind of dual sync if I have to buy one?
Or you can use a dual-sync distributor, such as a FAST unit, with or without sequential injection (sequential requires a cam sync sensor).
Or, install a crank trigger (such as Holley's DIS or MSD's Flying Magnet) and if sequential is desired, a cam sync sensor from EFI Connection:
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=623
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/58x.aspx (Scroll to end of page.)May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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Originally posted by DButler View PostSay I get the phasing properly done and all, can this physically mess the ECU up?
itself, which could be very harmful to a "loaded" engine (fuel & air) at high RPM.
If not, I may try it and just see, before I spend more money.
If you try it, datalog the results and look for RPM Errors:
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....p-SL-Data-LogsMay God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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