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Thread: Result of Ethanol in your Holley

  1. #1

    Default Result of Ethanol in your Holley

    Have had issues with my Holley 4160 (80457-5 2626). Wish I new what year it was made Sept. 19, 1976 or Sept 19, 2006?
    Anyway, couldn't keep it idling, engine would stall. adjusted the air/gas mixture, idle screw. Changed inline fuel filter, carb filter. Added a Fuel Pump Regulator & Gauge. Checked all vacuum lines, adjusted floats Primary & Rear.
    Attempted to change out needle & seat, as well as adjust the Primary float, so I opened the Primary Fuel Bowl; the float was a little off, as it's an internal side mount has the internal adjustment, I did the adjustment using a needle nose pliers on the tab plate, needle & seat were fine. However, noticed the crud inside the bowl. So, I also removed the metering block and wow, it was infiltrated with crud (see pics).
    Probably the best tip came from a Holley Tech over the phone: "Clean out the idle & main Air Bleeds". I used a "Duster" (for your PC keyboard) to blow it out, sprayed carb cleaner directly in the air bleeds. Of course scrapped out all the ethanol crud. Car now runs stronger than it ever had before.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    My car is a 1964 Chevelle SS 327/300 (probably higher HP with cam, headers, MSD distributor, etc.) Only 15,600 miles on it. Car sits in the garage all winter, only occasional rides in the country. Anyway, glad to have become so intimate with my Holley carb, NEVER will I use any gas containing ANY percentage of Ethanol. Thought you'd want to know, Ethanol sucks. JimboSS

  2. #2

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    Well, it doesn't look like it corroded the castings. That's a plus! Russ

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Chicago IL
    Posts
    1,952

    Default

    It's a common Problem, and is not just an issue with carbs. It also happens to EFI as well.
    The issue is that Ethanol is a hygroscopic fluid, it absorbs water (it's actually the way you test ethanol content in fuel).
    It's already corrosive on its own, but the water acts like an activator and makes it even more corrosive.

    There are a few things you can do to help.
    Use only stainless or plastic tanks with no foam inside of them.
    Use only stainless or PTFE fuel lines (not standard braided steel covering rubber).
    Make sure your fuel filters are a stainless steel mesh, not paper or other filter elements.
    Don't let the vehicle sit for more than a day with the ethanol in the lines.
    If you do have to park it, be sure to flush the fuel system out with regular pump gas.
    Whenever you do drive it, make sure you get the engine good & hot to help burn off moisture from the system.

    Otherwise in the end, you wind up with a bunch of gunk in your system.
    Which just means that you will have to clean things more often, and I mean very often.
    Also, anywhere you have a rubber gasket, plan on replacing it every time you have to take things apart to clean them.
    Rubber gaskets & o-rings will swell up from the ethanol and will not seal properly or correctly when you try to put them back in.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  4. #4

    Default

    VERY informative. I will change out fuel lines as you suggested. Thank you.
    As I wrote in my "issue", I will never use Ethanol in this car again.
    Fortunately, the gas tank was replaced with a stainless steel tank.
    Took the car for a country ride yesterday, I'm breathing a lot better, it ran perfectly.
    JimboSS

  5. #5

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    Sorry to say, but there's ethanol in just about every gas pump across America. Standard "gasoline" is pretty much 10% ethanol, unless you're willing to buy gas in cans or drums. Russ

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Chicago IL
    Posts
    1,952

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    Yes, but in a 10% quantity maximum, it's not such an issue. It doesn't cause the issues that 85% ethanol does.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,073

    Default

    Yeah, we use 10% ethanol gasoline here all the time, never a problem.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #8

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    Sorry, you're NOT correct. Just Google "Non Ethanol Gas stations", you'll have the option to type in your local area. My small town has three local gas stations that sell non-ethanol gas. The price is anywhere from 60 cents to a buck higher, however, well worth it. It's also between 91-93 octane. A classic car from the 1960s will love it. Thank you. JimboSS

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,073

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JimboSS View Post
    Sorry, you're NOT correct. Just Google "Non Ethanol Gas stations", you'll have the option to type in your local area.
    Who are you responding to? I didn't state there weren't any non-ethanol gas stations. (However, I did check, and there aren't any in my area.)
    I'll say it again, and I stand behind my statement, "We use 10% ethanol gasoline here all the time, never a problem."

    The price is anywhere from 60 cents to a buck higher, however, well worth it.
    It's not worth it for me, and I'm not driving any further for it. 10% ethanol gasoline is never even a concern of mine.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. #10

    Default

    It's definitely not worth it for me to drive 3 hours just to get ethanol free gas in my area. Especially when you only get maybe 1 MPG more out of it. I've never had a problem with E10, even in my cars which sometimes sit for 6 months or more. In fact, I know a person who works at an ethanol refinery near me, and a lot of the people who work there run straight ethanol in their cars, old or new.

    You just have to make sure your fuel lines can support ethanol like S2H said, and that your fuel system is clean because the ethanol will dissolve & pickup any old gasoline gunk or non ethanol-safe rubber, and deposit it in your carb or injectors.

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