Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 29 of 29

Thread: Sniper With Pertronix

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    18,662

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by supertruck View Post
    There really isn't one. This is '67 wiring. The screw terminal on the back of the ignition switch doesn't provide power when cranking.
    The ignition switch must have a wire that's powered in "run" and "crank" key positions leading to the ignition system.
    The ignition switch can't start the engine, if there isn't a circuit that's powered in the "Run" and "Crank" key positions.
    The easiest way to find this wire, is to look at the wiring schematics in a factory shop manual or even a Haynes manual.

    I don't mind using a relay. I'm a little surprised the supplied harness with the Sniper EFI only has a relay for the fuel pump, not the whole works.
    It's not necessary. https://forums.holley.com/showthread...6659#post26659 (Related Forum Thread - Posts #6 & #8)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  2. #22

    Default

    Your fender mounted starter relay is missing, wired wrong, or the wrong one. Your crank signal comes from that relay. It connects with the ignition wire from the key switch. Then you have both of those wires connected to the coil's positive. Ford has done this for many years.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    18,662

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by supertruck View Post
    Either way it's a tap off a circuit and I really don't want to go off the ignition circuit. I don't mind using a relay.
    The switched +12V pink wire (Sniper EFI) is just an on/off signal to the ECU. It's not drawing any amperage.
    I know that's not why you're considering the relay, but it's fine to splice into the ignition switch circuit.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  4. #24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    The switched +12V pink wire (Sniper EFI) is just an on/off signal to the ECU. It's not drawing any amperage.
    I know that's not why you're considering the relay, but it's fine to splice into the ignition switch circuit.
    Thanks Danny. In response to your earlier post, and this one, yes of course, there's an ignition circuit coming off the key. On my '67 Ford truck body, it's the red/green wire. Ironically I had intended to wire into it, but chose the brake light warning circuit because I tested it, and it was not the ignition wire, which I was hoping not to use. Oh well, you live & learn.

    I'm going to use a relay anyway. "Once bitten twice shy" except in my case, it's now "thrice bitten". There is simply no other thing that could be causing this that I or the Holley support techs can think of. Blue wire is to a fan relay, ground side. Brown wire is to tach signal wire (new Auto Meter tach). Purple wire to MSD box output. And the thing still fried, I can only think, because of the pink wire connecting to the brake light warning circuit.

    I've checked, double checked, and triple checked. And this was the THIRD ECU that I installed, new WBO2 sensors each time. The engine has not run at all, since the carburetor came off and the wires are all new. No shorts. I guess we'll know for sure once I get the next one from Holley. Let's hope it was the brake light warning circuit and not some other mystery.

    God's blessings to you and your family this Christmas.

    Quote Originally Posted by BITE_ME View Post
    Your fender mounted starter relay is missing, wired wrong, or the wrong one. Your crank signal comes from that relay. It connects with the ignition wire from the key switch. Then you have both of those wires connected to the coil's positive. Ford has done this for many years.
    Thanks, but it's not the solenoid wiring. There has never been any starting problem. It works just fine and had done so for quite some time when the engine was carbureted. Matter of fact, I disconnected the latest unresponsive ECU/TBI, sent it back to Holley, and put a carb back on with a 12S fuel pump, so I could back the truck in & out of the garage so I can maintain our other vehicles.

    I really think I blew it when I connected to the brake light warning circuit not to the ignition circuit (red/green wire). But I'm going to hang a small relay and power the pink wire directly through the relay, and actuate the relay with the ignition circuit, to try to isolate that pink wire even more.
    I sure hope this works, the Sniper EFI seems like the best modification possible for my truck. Can't wait to hear that FE really perform.

    Blessings to you and yours this Christmas! Joy to the world!

  5. #25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by supertruck View Post
    Thanks, but it's not the solenoid wiring. There has never been any starting problem. It works just fine and had done so for quite some time when the engine was carbureted. Matter of fact, I disconnected the latest unresponsive ECU/TBI, sent it back to Holley, and put a carb back on with a 12S fuel pump, so I could back the truck in & out of the garage so I can maintain our other vehicles.
    Long education post to follow (it's just a post for everyone):
    Let's start with the cranking connection first.
    The correct fender mounted Ford starter solenoid is a 5 connection device.
    1. Metal case goes to the metal fender, this is it's ground connection.
    2. Battery + connection. Usually a copper stud. Or has the letters BAT.
    3. Starter + connection.
    4. + Crank connection from key. This is generally marked with a S.
    5. + Crank "signal" out to ignition system (coil + in). This gives the ignition system "full" battery voltage for easy starting.
    Note #1: Most non-Ford systems have the solenoid on the starter. But they basically have the same connections.
    Note #2: This (the Ford way) makes for easy starter replacement. Only one wire goes to the starter.
    Now for the "defect" that "can happen sometimes" with starter solenoids.
    The solenoids make two simultaneous connections at once. One feeds power to the gear to kick out. Two feeds power to turn the starter motor.
    These two connections are supposed to "release" at the same time. If they don't, the
    stater motor could send a high voltage spike back through the still connected crank connection.
    The fix for this is to use a isolated relay to turn on "any" electronic device. Like a EFI system.

    Now the key switch:
    The ignition switch uses sliding brass contacts. Because they "slide" they are considered "self-cleaning". But they can wear out.
    Their "defect" is the heater motor blower. It draws a lot of current when wired to the ignition switch.
    This produces a lot of heat that can melt the plastic mount holding the brass slide contacts.
    This could cause intermittent connections to any electronics connected to the switch.
    You should always replace the ignition switch, and use a relay to feed the heater motor circuit on any old vehicle.

    Now the ignition wire from the ignition switch:
    Most older vehicles used a points type of ignition system. They generally used some type of current limiting device to keep the voltage going to the points to about 10 Volts.
    Sometimes, the limiting device was a resistance wire. Combine resistance wire, and a worn ignition switch and you end up with a bad "ignition signal" to sensitive electronics.
    The best fix is to bypass the resistance wire, and to feed the electronics with a relay.

    In conclusion, the best practice with dealing with older vehicles is:
    1. Replace the ignition switch.
    2. Use a relay to feed the heater motor.
    3. Use a relay to feed the EFI system.
    4. Bypass any resistance wires.
    5. Use two ground cables on the motor.

  6. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BITE_ME View Post
    Long education post to follow (it's just a post for everyone):
    Hey, I learned something, the blower motor should be isolated via a relay. I couldn't agree more. Well, I'll be hanging a small headlight style relay and wiring the Sniper EFI pink wire to it, tapping power off the battery red wire for the Sniper EFI, and using a positive signal from the ignition wire to the relay, since I can't use a ground trigger on it (except if I put in a toggle switch or some such thing). My unit is currently on a truck somewhere in the US on its way to Holley on the 26th.
    All the best to everyone this Christmas and New Year. Peace & Blessings to all!

  7. #27

    Default

    I would suggest reading & searching http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...mustang-forum/. They discuss Pertronix issues quite often as well as the ignition switch vs the solenoid vs a relay. On old Fords the starter solenoid almost never works directly unless the wiring has been modified. The ignition switch wire always works. Extra wires and another relay really aren't necessary.

  8. #28

    Default

    Well I got my repaired ECU back from Holley, and connected the pink wire to a relay controlled by the ignition key. Works perfectly!! All that trouble for want of a five dollar part! Oh well, all’s well that ends well. Thanks to Lordco Parts & Holley for bearing with me and for the two exchanges they gave me for free, while I was figuring things out. Great support!

  9. #29

    Default

    I’m using a Pertronix distributor. My touchscreen lights up, however, I can't get it to program. Any help would be appreciated.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us