I dunno, I'm confused now. I tried to do a System Log of waiving a piece of steel on the sensor. I did it for 30 seconds, at all different types of spacing up to and including touching the sensor while moving. Nothing on the System Log. :( I just don't understand how this could be, if my harness is good. Seems like only thing that could be is maybe bad ECU. Unless we have some more ideas. :(
No RPM signal. Problem with crank sensor?
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You first have to rule out the sensor gap issue.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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Well yeah, I hear that. But why would I get nothing on the datalog from waving something in front of it? That seems like the bigger issue to me. If that is solved, then I can look at how to do the sensor. Maybe I even measured it wrong, and it will work, if I can figure out this issue.
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Well, the LS 24x crank sensor reads two reluctor rings as one; it's a weird setup. So maybe the datalog won't read you waving something against it.
EDIT: You may need to temporarily change the Custom Ignition Parameters to "1 Pulse/Fire" Crank Sensor, click "Save" and cycle the ignition switch off/on.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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Just a small quick update. I brought my Dominator ECU over to a buddy's house, and threw it in his working car. He started his car successfully, so I can now check that off of the list of a possible fault. My ECU checks out good. Now I can get down to an electronics technician perspective of what's going on with the crank signal issue. I will update again when I have more news.
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Originally posted by Danny Cabral View PostWell, the LS 24x crank sensor reads two reluctor rings as one; it's a weird setup. So maybe the datalog won't read you waving something against it.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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And you might as well select Cam Sensor Type "Not Used", to eliminate it from the troubleshooting diagnostics.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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OK, have a new update! So, the more & more I kept measuring, the more I was getting values anywhere between 70 & 110 thousands. So a lot more than I needed. I tested with the crank sensor plugged in, but not on the engine, and measured voltage on the correct wire, and waved some metal in front of it, etc. So that will give me some variation in the voltage, so I got to thinking, it absolutely has to be this air gap thing. So since I had three crank sensors at my disposal, I decided to cut one down a little bit, and then put it in. I did this, and then I hooked up the laptop, and prepared to do a SL. I go to crank and start logging, and much to my surprise (it scared the crap out of me) the car started for the first time. I quickly turned it off, as I was not really ready to start the car.
So in summary, I have a question. If the crank centerline is a constant, and the all reluctor wheels should be within probably 5 thousands max of each other in diameter, and the engine blocks are some of the best tolerance control on the market, what in the world could possibly cause my crank sensor to be too far away from the reluctor? This is a brand new engine from an engine builder, so there is no dirt or gunk anywhere to speak of.
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Originally posted by Masnart View PostSo in summary, I have a question. If the crank centerline is a constant, and the all reluctor wheels should be within probably 5 thousands max of each other in diameter, and the engine blocks are some of the best tolerance control on the market, what in the world could possibly cause my crank sensor to be too far away from the reluctor? This is a brand new engine from an engine builder, so there is no dirt or gunk anywhere to speak of.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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The crank is a K1 brand 3.622" crankshaft. I guess I didn't think about that being a problem, as it should still hold the reluctor wheel the same way/the reluctor wheel does not change sizes. So unless there was some horrible radial run-out like you suggested, I still am confused. And even then, I don't think the car would start with that bad of run-out.
Meanwhile while I try to remedy my confusion, I still need to find out a way to securely mount this sensor. Because without a base all the way around the sensor to seat against the block, I don't really feel that comfortable with this crank sensor. I'll have to figure something out.
I just got to thinking about something. The block that my builder used was a newer style block, from what I understand. It is possible that this block MAY have originally been a 58x motor? With that being said, and the fact that mine has a 24x in it now, I wonder if this dimension is different between the two blocks? Measured from crank centerline to the mating surface where the crank sensor would sit against.
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Some users have dealt with reluctor radial run-out problems (LINK), others with sensor air gap problems (LINK), and others with improperly installed/positioned crank reluctors (LINK). Again, this is more prevalent on aftermarket crankshafts & camshafts. I've only dealt with these problems with aftermarket engine parts.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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