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Thread: SD Card Tuning versus Handheld Tuning. Problems, Issues, Advice, Tips?

  1. #21

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    I think there's a better way to do a drag race timing map. I would build a street timing map to make sure you don't have any detonation issues that you can't hear. Jimmy

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadget View Post
    I think there's a better way to do a drag race timing map. I would build a street timing map to make sure you don't have any detonation issues that you can't hear. Jimmy
    I cannot really see the attachment you posted. If I blow it up, it's pretty much too distorted to read, for me.
    Best I could tell was 34° everywhere from 2700 RPM or so? My car would be much slower with that as my target, especially in a low load situation.
    Heck, it picked up 1/2 second and 2-3 MPH, going from 36° (where everyone said it SHOULD be), to 44°.
    That was done on a whim, when my buddy suggested it, due to it being a 427 based combo.
    427s seem to love timing, from everything I have seen, heard, and read. Mine is no exception.

    I'm sorry you feel that it's too high, but after hundreds of passes, lots of drag racing logbook viewing, spark plug checking, and a pretty
    good amount of street driving over the last 5 years, I have done a lot of experimenting, and a lot of testing. This is what works, for me.

  3. #23
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    Just for the record, I'm not stating that 44° is a problem. It is what it is. I'm just stating the Base Timing Table should be restructured.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  4. #24
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    I thought I successfully modified & saved a "smoother" AFR/Timing tune, but now seem to be having issues saving it to Google Drive, LOL.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...WVFVktaR1FaRzg
    Last edited by rel3rd; 04-24-2017 at 11:58 AM.

  5. #25

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    I had a chance to look at you Base Timing Table, and you really need to do some reading on timing curves and how to program cruise timing. With what you have your timing jumps to 44° at the hit of the throttle right off idle and stays there. You have 50° of total timing at most MAP kPa pressures, and not just at higher cruise vacuum. If you keep running it on that much timing you're going to hurt it. Jimmy

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadget View Post
    I had a chance to look at you Base Timing Table, and you really need to do some reading on timing curves and how to program cruise timing. With what you have your timing jumps to 44° at the hit of the throttle right off idle and stays there. You have 50° of total timing at most MAP kPa pressures, and not just at higher cruise vacuum. If you keep running it on that much timing you're going to hurt it. Jimmy
    I don't need to do any reading. The car has been running the same quick mechanical curve for 5 years, and a brief time with mechanical timing locked at 44°, with 10° of ported vacuum advance timing.

    Any current JUMPS are there by default from HOLLEY SNIPER WIZARD's BASE TUNE.
    It's not my base tune. It is Holley's.
    Holley's BASE TUNE makes the timing JUMP, immediately, off idle, to 50°, which is why I tried to smooth it, and blend & push that 50° spot up to about 2500 RPM or so.

    I absolutely want the timing at 44° at WOT, from any RPM, period. The modified tune is simply me trying to do some "smoothing" of what was there.
    My Idle Timing is normally 33°
    My Cruise Timing is 50°
    My WOT Timing is 44°

    The QUESTION was, and still is, why does the modified tune NOT RUN the car?
    What is different, besides the smoothing of AFR & Timing graphs?

    I've never asked what timing specs anyone thinks the engine that I built, and have several hundred passes on, "should" have.
    It WORKS for ME, always has, and always will. Thanks. End of timing opinion discussion.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    The QUESTION was, and still is, why does the modified tune NOT RUN the car?
    What is different, besides the smoothing of AFR & Timing graphs?
    In Engine Parameters (System ICF), look at your Ignition/Magnetic "Filtering" ("Low" as opposed to "High") & "Inductive Delay" (140 usec as opposed to 160 usec).

    I've never asked what timing specs anyone thinks the engine that I built, and have several hundred passes on, "should" have.
    It WORKS for ME, always has, and always will. Thanks. End of timing opinion discussion.
    Yes, I agree...please!
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  8. #28
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    Danny, what I have finally figured out, as far as how to make it load, was to open the SD card, make copy the default tune (so I didn't lose it), then IMPORT CONFIG to the opened Sniper software. Then modify and SAVE CONFIG AS (use a new name). Then I just made sure it saved to SD card under SAVED GCF. One thing I still cannot do, is simply open a Base Config directly from the software, modify it, and save it...but at least I can save it now, it seems.

    Took the card out and put it back in the handheld, uploaded to ECU and car fired right up, and sounded fine.
    Unfortunately, transmission is out again, so can't drive it yet to see, but it seems to have saved the minor changes I made, and runs the car, so will know soon if it's working right.

    I keep forgetting to ask.
    Will the car run without the SD CARD? Without hurting anything?
    I assume that it would, and be OK, but want to hear it from you, LOL.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    I keep forgetting to ask.
    Will the car run without the SD CARD? Without hurting anything?
    I assume that it would, and be OK, but want to hear it from you, LOL.
    Yes, it will run without the SD card in the touchscreen.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  10. #30

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    The reason I bring up the timing is it's not anywhere close to the timing curves you have talked about running before you went to the EFI. Where you had 44° total with the distributor, you now have 50° in most places on the map except wide open throttle. This is in a lot of areas where you will not hear it spark knock, but it will be hitting it hard. You can make this map replicate what you have been running for years, but what you have is not it. Was just trying to keep the ring lands in it, but it's up to you. I'm done. Jimmy

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