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Thread: Transbrake Wiring

  1. #1

    Question Transbrake Wiring

    Is this the best way to wire a transbrake?
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  2. #2
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    Follow these instructions:
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10871.pdf (Holley 554-128 Transbrake Input Protection Module)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....9883#post79883 (Transbrake Input Protection Module Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  3. #3

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    What is the issue with my above way to wire the transbrake?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Savage View Post
    What is the issue with my above way to wire the transbrake?
    We can't tell what you are doing in your drawing.
    It looks like chicken scratch with no labels telling us what is what.
    We don't know if you have relays, we don't know how you're wiring power & ground to everything.
    We don't know which wire is the button to enable the transbrake. All we see is lines & scribbles.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  5. #5

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    That was drawn for me by a Holley tech guy on how to wire my transbrake.

  6. #6
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    Wow, really??? I would ask for a different guy. Should be something like below.
    Optionally, you could take any switch wired to ground, and use it in place of the ECU in this drawing.

    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  7. #7

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    The problem I ran into when I wired it like the drawing, was the wire going into the ECU (for rev limiter) would backfeed the black/yellow and activate the relay.
    When I shut the car off you would hear the transbrake activate. I was thinking of just putting a diode in the wire from transbrake switch to ECU.
    Like stated, that was drawn by a tech guy and did not show a diode. I walked away with the impression "this is how you do it, it's that easy". But, it's not. Thank you.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tier 2 Holley EFI Fuel Injection Training Manual (Pages 128 & 129)
    Outputs: They can transition through an indeterminate state during power up of
    the ECU. This usually lasts on the order of milliseconds if it happens at all, but it can result in very short
    inadvertent activation of devices on power up. Also, it is possible for some outputs to transition through
    indeterminate states upon power down or when the main power is disconnected from the ECU. Because
    of this, an additional layer of protection to gate safety critical outputs is highly recommended. For
    instance, if you're using a high current nitrous driver that receives power even when the ECU doesn’t, it
    would be a good idea to have your nitrous enable switch energize relays that connect the Nitrous
    driver’s signal input to the ECU’s output. That way nitrous activation would not happen during these
    transitional periods (since the nitrous enable switch should not be activated.) The relays don’t have to
    break the solenoid’s high current path, just the driver’s signal path.

    Driver Types. Although no distinction is made in the software, there are four basic types of output
    drivers‐ two types for high side outputs and two types for low side outputs. Since a load can behave
    considerably differently depending on the type of output driver that is used, it is useful to be familiar
    with the differences.

    The two types of high side output drivers we will call the “half‐bridge” and the “intelligent HS drive.” The
    biggest difference in the way that these two outputs behave is in the inactive state. When the “half-bridge”
    output goes to the inactive state it doesn’t just “let go,” it forcibly drives the output pin to
    ground. This can lead to some unexpected results.

    Foremost, it makes it abundantly clear when you have it wired wrong. If you have one side of a solenoid
    connected to a half bridge output and the other side to erroneously connected to battery voltage, the
    device will turn on when the output tries to turn it off. This does not happen with the other high side
    output type.

    Secondly, the low voltage drop on the recirculation path in the output’s inactive state can lead to longer
    solenoid deactivation times. Solenoids that turn all the way on and all the way off are just a little more
    sluggish. That is why half‐bridge outputs are not recommended for boost solenoids. For solenoids that
    operate in continuous current mode (like some IAC motors) this longer current decay time can be an
    advantage.

    Both high side drives have some level of overcurrent protection, but the behavior can be different. The
    half bridge outputs should not drive more than about 3A average, but some loads can have higher
    instantaneous currents. Even with short spikes of 11A the device will shut down. You do not get any kind
    of warning: the drive just seems like it doesn’t work. You must key‐off and back on to get this type of
    output to recover from an overcurrent shutdown. There are two outputs per half bridge chip. If one hits
    the current limit they both go down. Incandescent lights have a substantially higher inrush current than
    operating current. There are some large shift lights that will actually hit the 11A current limit and
    shutdown the output. The intelligent HS drive outputs do not shutdown in the same way, but will limit
    current to lower levels. This is good and bad, but at the end of the day you do not want to be activating
    the current limiters because it can quickly overheat the drive components.

    The two types of low side drivers are more similar to each other than the high side outputs. They have
    roughly similar flyback voltage clamping and they are both “relaxed” when they are deactivated. They
    are effectively interchangeable. The two “intelligent LS drive” outputs (3 and 4) have a slightly lower
    voltage drop when active.

    J1 B12 Output 01 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J1 B11 Output 02 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J1 B10 Output 03 G, P‐ Intelligent LS drive
    J1 B03 Output 04 G, P‐ Intelligent LS drive
    J2 B12 Output 05 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B06 Output 06 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B08 Output 07 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B21 Output 08 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B05 Output 09 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B11 Output 10 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B03 Output 11 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B09 Output 12 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J2 B24 Output 13 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J2 B25 Output 14 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J2 B02 Output 15 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J2 B01 Output 16 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J2 B04 Output 17 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J2 B10 Output 18 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J2 B22 Output 19 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J2 B23 Output 20 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive
    J3 B13 Output 21 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J3 B12 Output 22 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J3 B11 Output 23 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J3 B10 Output 24 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J3 B19 Output 25 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J3 B26 Output 26 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J4 B13 Output 27 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J4 B07 Output 28 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J4 B02 Output 29 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J4 B01 Output 30 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive
    J4 B11 Output 31 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J4 B05 Output 32 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J4 B12 Output 33 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J4 B06 Output 34 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J4 B04 Output 35 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    J4 B03 Output 36 H, P+ Half‐Bridge
    Tier 1 Holley EFI Fuel Injection Training Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5y...ew?usp=sharing
    Tier 2 Holley EFI Fuel Injection Training Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5y...ew?usp=sharing
    The Tier 3 Training Manual isn't necessary, because it just contains three instructions manuals (2 Boost & 1 NOS Fogger) that are already available on Holley's website.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Holley EFI Tier 2 Training Manual
    "For instance, if you're using a high current nitrous driver that receives power even when the ECU doesn’t, it would be a good
    idea to have your nitrous enable switch energize relays that connect the Nitrous driver’s signal input to the ECU’s output."
    Thank you both Danny & S2H. Insider tip, buy stock in Tylenol today. That post got my head pounding. LOL!

    I guess I don't know the difference between a driver and a relay.
    I'm using the 554-111 "driver" as/like a relay.
    So, as stated above from Holley in simple English, relay your relay
    Based off of what Danny posted, the diagram by S2H would give me the same results as I have now.
    Sending ground to driver when you kill the car???

    How about I diode my rev limiter input.
    See below. Any reason this is a bad idea?
    I can't think of a reason but, wanted a second opinion.
    Sorry you have to deal with a dummy. Thank you.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Savage; 03-29-2017 at 12:58 PM.

  10. #10
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    Yes, I'd try a simple diode before installing another relay. I use these TVS diodes (LINK) on a few of my ECU controlled devices.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

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