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Thread: Clarity on 24x/1x sensors with a Holley Dominator.

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlacasse1 View Post
    Did the info I provided in post #14 seem to be correct, especially the portion about the MAP?
    Yes, as long as the Base Fuel Table is populated with 1 bar MAP sensor values, and the MAP kPa load scale is configured to 105 kPa (which you stated it is).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Yes, as long as the Base Fuel Table is populated with 1 bar MAP sensor values, and the MAP kPa load scale is configured to 105 kPa (which you stated it is).
    This is my current Base Fuel Table. Additional question is, will turning down the additional fuel on startup help with keeping this from fouling out so bad?

    Last edited by rlacasse1; 06-18-2017 at 06:58 AM.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlacasse1 View Post
    This is my current Base Fuel Table.
    Yes, that's a 1 bar Base Fuel Table.

    Additional question is, will turning down the additional fuel on startup help with keeping this from fouling out so bad?
    Only if it's fouling out on startup (Cranking Fuel and/or After Start Enrichment). I need a break from this forum thread, so I'll answer this in more detail later.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....6254#post36254 (Good Starting Advice Thread - Especially posts #2, #4 & #6.)

    EFI Software Help Information/Instructions:
    ‒ On the top Toolbar, click "Help" & "Contents". This opens all Help topics.
    ‒ When navigating the software, click "Help ?", drag it to any parameter and click again.
    ..This automatically opens the definitions for that specific parameter.
    ‒ Tuning information can be read by clicking the F1 key, when you're viewing any screen.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #24

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    Fair enough. I do appreciate all the help. It's good to hear confirmation of what I've been working on, and guidance on what to do.

    UPDATE: Good news is it runs. I've been using the "Step-By-Step Beginner's Guide" in the EFI software and she's finally up & running. Crappy, but hey, it's better than nothing I suppose, as long as nothing breaks. I had to add quite a bit of fuel in the "Crank Fuel" table. The idle is fairly sporadic right now, constantly between 700-1200 RPM. AFR is anywhere between 11.6-26.0, so I'm going to be working on smoothing out the idle now.
    Last edited by rlacasse1; 06-18-2017 at 08:47 AM.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlacasse1 View Post
    Fair enough. I do appreciate all the help. It's good to hear confirmation of what I've been working on, and guidance on what to do.
    You're welcome.

    The idle is fairly sporadic right now, constantly between 700-1200 RPM. AFR is anywhere between 11.6-26.0, so I'm going to be working on smoothing out the idle now.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....e-Tuning-Notes (EFI Idle Tuning Notes)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Thank you for the link. I had actually started reading that thread a while back, but lost it.

  7. #27
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    Since you like that one, here's another one I get a lot of positive feedback on:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....2523#post62523 (Holley EFI Tuning Tips & Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #28

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    Hey Danny, I know you've helped me tons here, but is there anyways you could look at this tune & datalog and see if there is anything glaringly wrong? I've been using the tuning guide in the EFI software to get the car running, which it does. Just runs like crap. But it's been difficult with the owner messing with things as well. Looks like I'll get back with the datalog. I think I remember reading how to email a datalog in the Holley manual. Attachment 2566

  9. #29

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    And I have more questions on the setup/tune in this car. If anyone would has any knowledge in the area, please feel free to chime in. I'm having two issues right now, at least what I assume are issues. The first is the crank/cam sensor setup, and the second is the IAC.

    Issue 1: I initially tried setting up the cam/crank sensor using the GM LSx 24x tooth option as the Ignition Type. When done this way, the car had huge issues with backfiring, sputtering, rough idle, and you couldn't even touch the gas pedal or the car would die. This is with new sensors and the corrected wiring I wrote about in a previous post on this thread (LS2 harness, modified for the LS1 cam/crank sensors). Next move was to set the EFI up to run with no cam sensor. I set up a custom Ignition Type using only the 24x crank sensor, selected no Cam sensor, and DIS Coil On Plug (LS2 coil packs). I also set dwell times based on the Holley Tuning Guide embedded software, though different values are provided depending on chapter, which is confusing. Regardless, that improved the idle quality dramatically and the car can actually move under it's own power at this point, which is great; however, it leads to some questions.

    1. When setting up the ignition this way, it is not possible to run sequential injection, which is understandable and the EFI defaulted the injection to "Bank by Bank" injection. Is this an acceptable way to run a heavily modified street car? Or is this mostly a race setup option?

    2. Is this less than ideal? I feel it is a band-aid and I'd like to have the cam sensor functioning, but it's causing issues and I'm unsure why. Below is a screen shot of a datalog showing the cam/crank sensor during operation, I did this based on the Tuning Guide's diagnostic section. However, I'm slightly at a loss as the text of the diagnostic section is somewhat confusing. It is as follows: "Review these parameters on the log. Once the engine is running, neither of these should increment (change). If either of these increment, it means that there is either a missing, or extra/false crank or cam signal. An easy way to quickly check is to simply put the cursor at the beginning of the datalog (after the engine is running), note the values, and then put it at the end of the log before the engine is shut off. If the values don’t change, there is an issue, if they do, move the cursor though the log to find the point of the issue (where the values increment)."

    My confusing lies in the contradictory statements. "Neither of these should (change)" yet "if the values don't change, there is an issue" and furthermore "if they do, find the point of the issue". If anyone can shed some light on what's being said there, that'd be dandy.

    In the end, I'd like to have the cam sensor functioning and the sequential injection back. That's end goal.

    3. LS firing order is 18726543. In the Holley Tuning Guide, in the "Crank/Cam Sensor Installation and Setup" and looking specifically at "Case 4" (the very end of the section), the guide states a 1x pattern should be 72654318. I understand that when looking at a these series as a pattern, they are identical, but they begin with a different cylinder. Which is appropriate when setting up the firing order in the Ignition Parameters? Or am I wrong to be looking at that in the first place since the car has an OEM 1x sensor?

    4. Will running no Cam sensor and a "Bank-To-Bank" Injection Strategy prevent the ECU from every going into Closed Loop or into Learning? I've not seen this mentioned at all, but wanted to double check.

    Issue 2: Despite the misfiring being sorted out, the idle is still sporadic and varies. Typically between 800-2200 RPM. I've tried adjusting the throttle body to allow the IAC valve to take over air control at idle; however, when doing this, the car will not idle and it will die. If I open the throttle body up enough by adjusting it to the point where the IAC valve only operations between 0-4% (roughly), the car will stay running but the IAC valve will stay at 0% for the most part. If I try to close the throttle plate to the point that the IAC valve is operating around the 5-10% range, the car will inevitably die. Usually this happens when the RPM dip real low and the car can't comeback.

    Final & last question for this round. How many lbs of fuel is normal to pull out or add when idle tuning manually? I removed or added around 20% in some areas without too drastic of a change in idle quality. RPM still fluctuated heavily and AFR was all over the place as well. I'll try to get a screenshot of a datalog and a fuel table tomorrow.

  10. #30

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    OK, for some reason I lost my ability to datalog cam/crank signals. Or I'm doing something wrong. I followed the process outlined in the tuning guide for displaying the cam/crank sensor signals (Diag #6/#7); however, I'm no longer getting a signal like I was before. But the car is starting and running better than it ever had, so I'm assuming there's an issue in the EFI software. I just haven't been able to track it down. Has anyone experienced that?

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