Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Self-Tuning Questions

  1. #1

    Question Self-Tuning Questions

    So I've got a car that came with a Holley Sniper EFI. After messing around with some stuff I opted to re-run the Wizard and now the car's being "stock". I'm curious about how long would it take for the EFI to self-tune back to better performance.

    First question is: When I start the car (cold start) it'll die out a couple times. I keep restarting it and eventually it stays and keeps running. After a couple starts it'll start, try to die, save itself and then after the car gets to about 90°F on the CTS it starts to stay running and eventually settles into a nice smooth idle. Is this something I need to adjust myself, can I? Or should I just be patient and let the car tune itself?

    Second question: When driving it feels pretty good most the time. But I can feel it "surge" every now and then. Keeping the throttle pretty steady I can feel the car feel like it lurches. I'm thinking this again is more of a result of the EFI self tuning.
    I guess my main question is: "How long should the self-tuner" take to settle itself. Also any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    25,658

    Default

    When the Learn Table values stop making significant changes, the ECU is finished self-tuning. The purpose of the Learn Table is not to achieve similar values, high/low values (0% or 100%), or any value in particular. It's simply indicating the amount of tuning applied to the Base Fuel Table. Read this thread (LINK), that's what it's all about.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Danny, you’re everywhere! I really appreciate your knowledge of the content of these forums. It’s a bit overwhelming how much content there is. And sometimes on not even sure how to phrase my question properly. About how long does the self-tuning take approximately? 1 hour of driving? 3? 10?

    If I understand how the Learn Table is adjusted, the ECU sees that at a given set of parameters (RPM, temp, etc.) the AFR is either too high or too low. The Learn Table is then adjusted by a fixed amount. So if this is a correct understanding, then that means if my AFR at a given set of parameters is WAY off the ECU will adjust by the fixed amount. And the next time it sees those parameters it’ll adjust by the same fixed amount. This could lead to A LONG wait of self-tuning while the tune adjusts by that fixed amount.

    Let’s pick some numbers. If my AFR when the engine is 60°F CTS is trying to be around 14.1, but it keeps dying. The ECU will adjust the Learn Table by .05%. But it actually needs to be adjusted around 10% to fix the dying idle. That could means hours of idle time. (At that temp). Am I thinking about this the wrong way? Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    25,658

    Default

    Please read this: http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7370#post47370 (Closed Loop & Learn Table - Especially posts #2, #6 & #11.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Honestly, the self-tuning feature can only do so much. I have a hunch you should open your throttle blade a bit.

  6. #6

    Default

    The Sniper does not "self-tune". What the Sniper does is auto corrects back to the Target A/F Ratio table. When you program a Sniper you load an AFR table which tells the Sniper what the AFR should be for each RPM & MAP cell on the table. That is it.

    The Sniper cannot fix the tune if you make a programming error. If you tell the Sniper that you want it to run at 16:1 AFR then it will do that. The Sniper isn't smart enough to say "oh, that is a bad tune, I'll fix it". The Sniper just does what it is told.

    In regards to low idle speed, cold starts, hot starts, etc., the Sniper needs to be manually adjusted. The Sniper cannot self adjust the idle speed, it can't open up the throttle blades, it can't fix a vacuum leak, it can't fix exhaust leaks, it doesn't know how much extra fuel you need for a cold start at 30°F, etc. All of those things need to be manually figured out, adjusted and loaded into the program.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us