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Thread: Weird datalog, care to help me figure it out?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    You're right to question it. It is exactly what it's called (a chassis ground, not a clean ECU ground), and it's not the preferred ground for crank/cam sensors. That's why I wrote the tips below:

    Crank & Cam Sensor Wiring Tips:
    The 10-pin Ignition Connector has one "Chassis Ground" (loose black wire ground) and two "IPU Grounds" (clean ECU ground).
    Don't use "Chassis Ground" to ground an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors). It's quick & easy to move the ignition
    module ground wire from (cavity) pin D "Chassis Ground" to pin C or G "IPU Ground", where it should be.

    If you don't have the actual Metri-Pack terminal release tool, a "safety pin" will work.
    It just needs to be a stiff wire between .030"-.035" in diameter to release the terminal tab.
    Then reopen (bend) the terminal tab before reinsertion, so it will clip (lock) into the cavity.
    http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-6 Micro Terminal Release Pick Tool)

    Also, don't use (cavity) pin E "Switched +12V" from the 10-pin Ignition Connector, to power an ignition module
    (or crank & cam sensors), unless you've modified the wiring source to connect from pin B20 - EST 12V Output
    (P1B ECU Connector). This LINK explains why & how to do it.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Sections 2.1 "Pin-Outs" & 13.0 "Wiring Appendix")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    306

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    Everything is wired as it would have came from Holley at this point, and I'm still having the same issue. Everything worked flawlessly with the old TFI setup, MSD coil & Digital 6 ignition. What I find odd is how intermittent the problem is. I can go for a drive and roll into the gas with no hiccups, and other times I'm lucky if I can get it out of my driveway. It doesn't appear to be RPM related. Sometimes at idle it will just die all of a sudden, and other times I can rev it in the driveway to make it fail, like in this System Log.
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9tifia2cy...QSp668gMa?dl=0
    93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400

  3. #13
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    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    Let's start with the answers to the questions in post #2.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
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    It's the 60-2 wheel with the Hall-Effect sensor for a ferrous target. It's currently gapped at .042". 1/8" thick wheel with .006" end play at the crankshaft. I don't know what the run-out on the wheel is, but I did check the gap at multiple rotations and found no noticeable variance in the air gap. TDC is the 10th tooth, set to Digital Falling with a 5° Timing Offset because my sensor mount is in a fixed position. The cam sync is Single Pulse, also set to Digital Falling. Both sensors are now powered from the pin B20 in the P1B connector, and both grounds are to the IPU grounds as well as the shields being unterminated at the sensor end, and tied to the shield pins in the harness.

    After looking over the instructions again, I found that they recommend Digital Rising for the crank sensor. For some reason, I thought Digital Falling was preferred. Either way when it's not acting up the signal looks good, so I don't think that could be the issue.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10800rev2.pdf

    I've never performed an AC ripple test, but I'll look into it. I'm also going to do some voltage drops on the system and see what I find.
    93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400

  5. #15
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    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick90lx View Post
    After looking over the instructions again, I found that they recommend Digital Rising for the crank sensor. For some reason, I thought Digital Falling was preferred.
    This is exactly where I was going next. Since the sensor manufacturer suggests Digital Rising, you better try it.
    FYI: This will require resyncing the crank sensor with a timing light & Timing Offset (EFI software).
    Also, ensure the ignition timing is fully synchronized at idle & higher RPM (Inductive Delay - LINK).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
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    Guys, after many hours of chasing all sorts of different avenues, the fix ended up being a new Hall-Effect sensor. I purchased the Cherry GS100102 sensor that Danny uses on his own truck. After finding the gap it wanted (.020") the car is running and not skipping a beat. I put 20+ miles on it this evening in all sorts of throttle, RPM & levels of boost, and it was golden. Hopefully this will help someone else out in the future!
    93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400

  7. #17
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    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    That's good news! I use a .025" sensor gap. That Cherry GS100102 Hall-Effect sensor is absolutely best sensor I've ever used. I can't even imagine my Cherry Hall-Effect crank sensor giving me even a hint of trouble. Yes, it's been that reliable!
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  8. #18

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    Hey Rick. Yeah, it did help me. I hope now this issue is solved for me today. I just installed my new crank sensor and yet to fire it up and drive it still. I'm using factory crank sensor and trigger wheels unless this still isn't resolved. Then I'll go to the damper mounted trigger & sensor setup. Great thread and thanks.

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