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Thread: Crankcase Pressure Problem After Install

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Middle River, MD


    Quote Originally Posted by fireblade_rr View Post
    I went for a test drive around the block less than a mile.
    Highly unlikely it has even Learned anything, since in a mile it more than likely never went over 160°F to get to that point to even start the process.

    Like someone else said, it'd take a whole lot of fuel to wash out the rings, a LOT! Enough that the car would barely be able to even run, if at all. I had an oxygen sensor fail, giving the Sniper a bogus reading of 34.5:1 AFR, so it was dumping fuel badly, and I had no choice but to drive it back to the garage. Other than a much needed oil change from being contaminated, it didn't seem to hurt a thing. If the throttle body dumped enough fuel to ruin your rings, I'd bet money the car would barely even run and would be belching black smoke out. I know mine was, and it's still running great after a WBO2 sensor replacement.

  2. #12


    Update: Did a compression test, cylinders #1 & #7 - 60 psi with oil. Pulled motor apart and found broken ring lands on the two cylinders. All bearing, main & connecting rods were in great shape. Cylinder walls still had cross hatching in each, no ridges, no scratches, no signs of piston slap, they are in great shape. What causes lands to break? Detonation and over fueling can from what I've read. No way to pin this occurrence on the Sniper except for the fact the motor had no issues right before the swap. The motor was freshened up with all new bearings, pistons, rings & cam and is installed and ready to go. So with that all said, as I’m very green to the EFI stuff for tuning & knowing my situation with the first go around, what should I be concentrating on with initial startup and going forward?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Chicago IL


    Detonation is really the only thing that would cause that.
    You didn't "Over Fuel It" and quit trying to blame it on the fuel.
    If someone tells you that you can "Over Fuel" the ring lands away, they have no clue what they're talking about,
    and you should probably never let them give you any automotive advice ever.

    You should start by looking at your timing.
    Is timing being controlled by the Holley system? Or is it being controlled by something else?
    How much timing do you have at part throttle and at wide open throttle?
    Make sure our timing is synchronized properly with what the Holley says it is commanding. This is the most common problem for most users.
    Last edited by S2H; 04-02-2017 at 03:11 PM.
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009


    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    This is the most common problem for most users.
    You're absolutely right! Read Step #4:! (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read This!)

    I've said it before, and I'll say it again: I'm astonished at how often I read of people actually driving their vehicles with unsynchronized timing, or not setting the timing at all!
    I connected my timing light (ready to view/adjust), before I even started my EFI engine for the first time. The mere thought of unsynchronized ignition timing upon startup concerned me.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

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