Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 31 to 40 of 40

Thread: Sniper EFI Learn

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Middle River, MD
    Posts
    249

    Default

    The part number/link is for the COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR, not the thermostat. Sorry for any confusion.

  2. #32

    Default

    Thanks, edited my post to coolant temp sensor.
    Last edited by Willyspu; 01-11-2017 at 01:34 AM.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    19,264

    Default

    FYI: The Standard Motor Products TX3T is the CTS economy version. If you Sniper EFI users are having such major CTS problems, consider purchasing the Standard Motor Products TX3.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Middle River, MD
    Posts
    249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    FYI: The Standard Motor Products TX3T is the CTS economy version. If you Sniper EFI users are having such major CTS problems, consider purchasing the Standard Motor Products TX3.
    Or, maybe Holley could source one that reads accurately? Maybe they simply got a bad batch?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    19,264

    Default

    I use the Holley 534-10 coolant temperature sensor with my Holley Dominator EFI system, and it's accurate. This is the first I've heard of this CTS problem.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Middle River, MD
    Posts
    249

    Default

    I wasn't too concerned, because it was a $10 fix. The FiTech EFI is very well known to have this same issue, which is how I knew to just swap it out and be done. Like I said, maybe it was just a bad batch.

  7. #37

    Default

    Since I originally posted this, I've learned a few things. Now it's Learning and running better every day. Roughly 4000 miles with Sniper EFI now. I've learned that Coolant Temperature Enrichment has to be at 100% to Learn. I went in adjusted my Learned Compensation Limits, raise them to 130%. Hopefully this helps somebody.

  8. #38

    Default

    My Holley Sniper provided CTS was 10° less than my aftermarket dash gauge. Just replaced it with the Standard Motor Products TX3, and now my it's 15° MORE than my dash, LOL.

  9. #39

    Default

    Coolant temp sensors all seem to read differently. We just ran an engine on the dyno and the CTS said the engine was 155°F, while the cooling tower said 180°F. I believe the cooling tower gauge, since it's been verified multiple times. The CTS in my car seems to be accurate at temp, but it's way off when the engine is cold. It will be 20 or 30°F off when I first start the engine. Most of the CTS issues seem to be with them reading low. If the read too low then the Sniper stays rich. I ran into this problem recently when I was helping tune an engine for a customer. We had been driving the car for awhile and the CTS was still at 150°F and adding fuel. The engine temp was actually at 180°F, and it didn't need the extra fuel. I highly recommend keeping a second temp gauge in the car until you find a CTS that's accurate. There is probably a simple CTS testing fixture available. The CTS is just a resistor, so all you need is a voltmeter, some ice water and some boiling water to find out if it's accurate.

  10. #40

    Default

    I did some CTS testing recently and found that there is a lot of variance from sensor to sensor. I made up a short pigtail that plugs into the sensor and gives me two leads that plug into a voltmeter. With that pigtail, it's easy to check the resistance of the sensor. I tested five different sensors and they varied by more than 10%.

    I knew something was up when I started my car the other day and the MAT was 70°F while the CTS said 90°F. Sure enough when I checked with the voltmeter my CTS was off. The sensors seem to be more accurate when hot than cold. Some of the sensors that were way off on the cold temp were pretty close on the hot test. Cold test is easy, just use a bowl of ice water. It's a little harder to do the hot test.

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us