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Thread: '68 Chevelle Terminator/Stealth - Fuel Line Questions

  1. #1

    Default '68 Chevelle Terminator/Stealth - Fuel Line Questions

    I'm new to EFI. I have a '68 Chevelle that has 4 year old 3/8 metal fuel line. I would like to know if I can keep in place, and plumb my new 12-130 in-tank retro fit fuel pump to? The return line from the Terminator that I will build, is going to have an in-line 12-886 regulator. Since I've never used any of the NPT/AN fittings on fuel before, I was wondering if anyone has done a similar build, and if they remember which fittings/part numbers they used? I'm having trouble navigating Earl's site to determine which sizes I will need from metal to rubber etc. The Terminator instructions have diagrams, but do not address the fittings from the retro fit pump, rubber to metal tubing & such. These are the specific questions I have:
    - From the in-tank 1/4" NPT fuel pump fittings, which fitting should I use from there to go to rubber hose that would then connect to the metal fuel line?
    - Which fitting would best connect from that rubber hose fitting to the 3/8" metal tubing?
    - I see there are "kits" to build with rubber hose, not sure if that's better than just buying fittings to plumb into the metal line?
    Thanks! -Lew

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycalew View Post
    - From the in-tank 1/4" NPT fuel pump fittings, which fitting should I use from there to go to rubber hose that would then connect to the metal fuel line?
    https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ts/AT984006ERL (Earl's AT984006ERL - 1/4" Male NPT To 3/8" Hose Barb)
    https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/781606ERL (Earl's 781606ERL - 1/4" Male NPT To 3/8" Hose Barb)

    - Which fitting would best connect from that rubber hose fitting to the 3/8" metal tubing?
    • Procedure for creating a barbed end on a cut-to-length steel tube:
    (Hose doesn't slip over a double-flared end. A barbed end is the proper means of attachment.)
    Cut and deburr the steel tube using a tubing cutter.
    Assemble line in double-flaring tool, the same way you would if creating a double-flared end.
    Compress the double-flare die about ˝ way down and stop and inspect the result.
    It's important not to let the die tilt on its way down, because we're not going all the way down.
    Compress more if necessary to create the desired barb shape. It's visible in the tool.
    The end result is a perfect barbed line, ready for slipping on and clamping a hose.

    • If you don't need to cut (shorten) the steel tube, you can also use an inverted flare/barbed adapter fitting - no cutting, soldering or flaring:
    http://www.plews-edelmann.com/push-on-rigid-female/ (3/8" Female Inverted Flare, 3/8" Barb Fitting - Edelmann 724660)
    http://www.plews-edelmann.com/produc...-style/724560/ (5/16" Female Inverted Flare, 3/8" Barb Fitting - Edelmann 724560)
    http://www.plews-edelmann.com/produc...-style/824550/ (5/16" Female Inverted Flare, 5/16" Barb Fitting - Edelmann 824550)
    http://www.plews-edelmann.com/assets...ings_90078.pdf (Complete Edelmann Catalog)

    - I see there are "kits" to build with rubber hose, not sure if that's better than just buying fittings to plumb into the metal line?
    The metal fuel line is fine.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the quick reply Danny! I think due to the headache of trying to form barbed ends on an in-place fuel line and create multiple connections, I will just piece together a rubber line from tank to Terminator.
    Will the Holley 12-886 regulator work? Should I be looking at a "better" one?
    Should I run -6AN to and from the Terminator?
    Does the rubber hose have to be 30R9?
    Does the hose have to be stainless or nylon wound? Will plain 30R9 hose work?
    For anyone that may follow this thread, I measured approximately 13.5 feet from center of Chevelle tank to center top of engine, following the right frame rail. -Lew
    Last edited by mycalew; 12-28-2016 at 10:58 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycalew View Post
    Will the Holley 12-886 regulator work? Should I be looking at a "better" one?
    It is an EFI fuel pressure regulator. If in doubt of its quality, use the Holley 12-880 or 12-846 FPR.

    Should I run -6AN to and from the Terminator?
    This is your decision.

    Does the rubber hose have to be 30R9?
    Yes. (LINK)

    Does the hose have to be stainless or nylon wound?
    No.

    Will plain 30R9 hose work?
    Yes, but Earl's Super Stock hose (LINK) or Earl's Vapor Guard hose (LINK) is excellent quality. (Hose ends - LINK.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

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