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Thread: Very stiff pedal with Sniper EFI

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zmann View Post
    He mentioned that they're "directly connected". Can you adjust the primaries down separately from the secondaries being adjusted up?
    If you were to turn the "idle speed screw" counter-clockwise a ways (aka loosen it), then the connecting "link" will naturally take tension off of the secondary shaft. I used two pairs of small pliers to "adjust" mine. See pic above.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zmann View Post
    He mentioned that they're "directly connected". Can you adjust the primaries down separately from the secondaries being adjusted up?
    Yes, of course. The secondary shaft linkage is slotted (free travel) before actual movement.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  3. #23

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    He's trying to keep the secondaries open a tiny bit to keep them from sticking.
    If you close the primaries as suggested then the secondaries will shut first and stick won't they?
    I guess tweaking the linkage is a work around, but I wonder why they stick? Plates too sharp?

  4. #24
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    I read somewhere that people have loosened the throttle shaft screws and recentered the blade, and that eliminates the sticking. Mine is fine now, so I guess it had to break in/wear in a bit?

  5. #25
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    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  6. #26

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    I seemed to have fix the pedal feel. I bent my throttle cable positioning bracket further back so there's more tension on the cable, and I also adjusted the idler screw until it turned the throttle linkage open the tiniest bit. That seemed to have gotten rid of the "dead stiff" zone. However, obviously as a result of tightening that screw back in my idle RPM is now higher at 1K. (But note even with the idler screw all the way out, my idle RPM was at 900, not sure if that means it's still Learning.)

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by schweigert View Post
    (But note even with the idler screw all the way out, my idle RPM was at 900, not sure if that means it's still Learning.)
    No, that doesn't mean it's still Learning.

    Sniper EFI Idle Setting/Throttle Blade Setting (Holley Sniper EFI Quick Start Manual):
    Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard.
    To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. With the vehicle in neutral,
    adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 & 10%. While adjusting the idle speed screw, if the
    TPS Position begins to read higher than 0%, cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero.
    NOTE: Do not attempt to set the Target Idle Speed and IAC Position until the engine is above 160°F!
    http://documents.holley.com/199r11193.pdf (Holley Sniper EFI Quick Start Manual - "Idle Setting/Throttle Plate Setting", Page 12)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...-Idle-Solution! (Sniper EFI High Idle Thread)

    * Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting *
    Sometimes the throttle blades are so far off adjustment, turning the idle speed screw triggers the IAC Hold Position.
    If this happens, the throttle blades will require a baseline setting without the IAC valve altering this adjustment.
    This must be accomplished with the engine at hot idle. Be careful of dangerous fan and belt driven components.
    With the air filter previously removed, block off the IAC air inlet port with your finger or a strong piece of tape.
    While temporarily ignoring the IAC Position, adjust the idle speed screw to the Target Idle Speed RPM (in Idle ICF).
    Turn engine off (remove tape). With the key-on/engine-off, perform a TPS Autoset. Cycle key off & restart engine.
    Now only a minute adjustment will be required to achieve an IAC Position of about 5%. Perform a final TPS Autoset.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

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