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Thread: Very stiff pedal with Sniper EFI

  1. #11

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    I have this exact problem too, but mine was caused by the TV cable on my 700R4. I built an extension, but I too am not getting full throttle. At least it's easier to test drive as trying to ease into that tip-in point was impossible, and I ended up just roasting the tires. I think I'll have to end up with a custom throttle cable.

  2. #12

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    Pull the TV cable off the stud and see how the pedal feels (motor off) or not in drive.
    My Sniper has a stiff pedal all because the Sniper has dual springs and they are wound too tight, IMO.
    And if you add an extension, the geometry for the TV cable changes, so that might need to be addressed.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Middle River, MD
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    249

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    Just to add my 2 cents, mine was very hard to drive as far as taking off from a stop, normally. Now that I have a 4" cowl hood, I was able to use a different air cleaner base and a small extension on the throttle linkage, it helped a LOT.

  4. #14

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    I have the same problem. '69 Mustang 302 with stock throttle cable. It's basically 20% "foot force" on the pedal doesn't do much, then BAM it cracks open. I'm not running any extra springs on mine (I've tried and it didn't help.) So basically, it's all about the throttle cable geometry?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by schweigert View Post
    I'm not running any extra springs on mine (I've tried and it didn't help.)
    Of course it didn't help, adding spring tension will just make it tighter. Ensure your throttle cable is moving freely.

    So basically, it's all about the throttle cable geometry?
    Throttle linkage geometry. A simple throttle lever extension allows greater leverage, so there's less effort exerted.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  6. #16
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    Middle River, MD
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    You might also check the secondary butterflies, mine were sticking in the throttle bores.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    You might also check the secondary butterflies, mine were sticking in the throttle bores.
    So the the throttle is directly connected to the forward butterflies, and there's like 1mm of play before the rear butterflies open up. My idle is already 200 RPM higher than I set it at (with the idler screw all the way out). How did you adjust the rears, without it bringing up your idle even more?

  8. #18
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    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by schweigert View Post
    How did you adjust the rears, without it bringing up your idle even more?
    You'd then slightly close the front throttle blades to compensate.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  9. #19

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    He mentioned that they're "directly connected". Can you adjust the primaries down separately from the secondaries being adjusted up?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Middle River, MD
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    249

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    I'd try to verify that's what's happening first. You should be able to work the secondary shaft by hand, and you'll feel it if it's binding.
    I could barely take off from a stop "normally", but if I was cruising at highway speed, pedal was fine, since there was no bind off idle.
    I had to very slightly bend the tang so that it contacted the stop (built into the throttle body), and the primary to secondary link for the secondaries not to stick in the secondary bores. Then like Danny said, adjust via the primary idle screw. See pic:
    Click image for larger version. 

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