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Thread: Sniper EFI - Fuel Pump Placement

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Australia - Sydney
    Posts
    2

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    Qbrown, I'm sure I have a very early Tank version (fabricate not stamped) like the image below (image found on the web and not my car).

    My tank is in an assembled car and fully painted registered & running car.
    I have the pickup, fuel sender and then a vent port - exactly as shown in the photo.
    I'm thinking of getting a AN bulk head fitting and drill a hole next to the sender, and use the sender hole to get access to be able to fit the bulk head fitting.
    This can then be used for the return. I'm not sure if I could put a fitting direct into the sender, which may be an option.
    I was going to run an inline pump to a Corvette C5 Filter Regulator so I could have a short return line run.
    Again the car is complete, and is a highboy and also add the complications it is Right Hand drive, so we have the brake and steering to get around. I can use the exiting line around that crowed part of the car.

    I'm not to worried about the existing tank not being baffled, as really it is just a cruiser and the I beam front suspension and white wall cross ply tires don't really like being thrown into corners or sideways action!

    My other option was to get a new Tank Inc unit which has the GPA drop in fuel pump assemblies.
    This though would add approx. $800 (landed in Australia) and then pain of painting to match the car.
    Interested to hear your thoughts.


  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Palm Bay, FL
    Posts
    162

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    Quote Originally Posted by 351C Sniper View Post
    The Quick Start Manual has a view of the Main Harness on page 6: http://documents.holley.com/199r11193.pdf. The fuel pump power wire is labeled as "optional".
    I would respectfully disagree with "Optional". A fuel pump must have a way to shut off in the event a fuel line is cut. That's why EFI fuel systems operate the way they do. At Key-On, the ECU sends a short (10 seconds or so) power to the fuel pump, enough to pressurize the fuel system. Then it doesn't restart the fuel pump until the engine is turning. And if the engine quits for any reason, the ECU turns the fuel pump off.

    The reason for all of this is so if you are in an accident that cuts your fuel line then your engine will shut off from lack of fuel. At that point, the ECU will shut the fuel pump off. Compare that to someone who wires their fuel pump relay directly to key-on. Line gets cut and the fuel pump just keeps pumping fuel. Bad things happen.

    So, bottom line, it's great that the Sniper EFI lets you power your fuel pump without requiring you to wire up a relay. Use it. :-)
    Chris Myer
    800-880-0960 x654
    chris@EFISystemPro.com

    Check our www.EFISystemPro.com website for live stock status on
    all Holley items, including the full line of Holley HyperSpark Distributors!

  3. #13

    Default

    Thanks for the post. It sounds like you're familiar with the Sniper EFI. The relay on the harness also has the pink wire looped through it, and another loop of pink wire is in the harness. It's more than just a relay for the fuel pump. It operates the whole system. If someone wants to use a separate fuel pump relay, they can trigger it with the 12 gauge blue wire. So the system is safe because it will shut off power to the fuel pump. Do you think anything is needed beyond this? For instance an inertia switch?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    18,669

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    Quote Originally Posted by 351C Sniper View Post
    It's more than just a relay for the fuel pump. It operates the whole system.
    Yes, Chris understands that. Hence his reasoning for using the Sniper's fuel pump control wire.

    If someone wants to use a separate fuel pump relay, they can trigger it with the 12 gauge blue wire. So the system is safe because it will shut off power to the fuel pump.
    Yes, it's fine to install an additional relay if you have a high amperage fuel pump (post #4). It's still under ECU control.
    The warning Chris mentioned is in reference to installing an additional fuel pump relay that is not under ECU control.

    Do you think anything is needed beyond this?
    No.

    For instance an inertia switch?
    No.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  5. #15

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    Well, I finally made a decision on this. I have decided to go ahead a convert my tank to hold an in-tank fuel pump. I took the tank off the car today and removed my fuel pickup. My tank is a Vintique Inc. reproduction tank. Luckily it has a removable fuel pickup with a vent, a return line built in as well as a removable fuel sender as well. I took my fuel pickup to my local hot rod shop (417 Motorsports) for Blake to help me convert the pickup to hold the pump. We are going to be using a Walbro 190 pump, and more than likely the small HydraMat to help prevent captivation. The car has a small block Chevy that has your very basic stuff done to it, so 350 HP or under as far as power. The 190 is rated to 500 HP NA, so this pump should more than enough. I will post pictures of the converted pickup once I get it back from Blake. Should be Friday or early next week. Let me know if you have any questions and I will try and get them answered.

    Fuel tank off of car:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I forgot to take a before picture of the fuel pickup, but luckily I was able to find a picture of it online.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Palm Bay, FL
    Posts
    162

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    It is noteworthy that the Walbro/TI Automotive fuel pump that comes in the Sniper Master Kit can be installed in-tank. If you visit the link below, you'll see that WalbroFuelPumps.Com even offers a special sock filter to allow their inline pump to be used inside the tank:
    http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gs...5lph-pump.html

    If you do install the inline pump in the tank, you will need to either already have fuel pump voltage source wires run into the tank or else will need to add a bulkhead wiring kit:
    http://www.efisystempro.com/2-wire-f...?search=26-152

    That price seems a little high, until you start considering the nightmares that could be involved in trying a do-it-yourself solution.
    Chris Myer
    800-880-0960 x654
    chris@EFISystemPro.com

    Check our www.EFISystemPro.com website for live stock status on
    all Holley items, including the full line of Holley HyperSpark Distributors!

  7. #17

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    I did a Tanks Inc. tank and it's very nice. I would recommend it. Also, I did research and found that you can buy some DynaMat type material for $17 at Lowes. They say it's the same stuff, but meant for roofing. I put it on my tank, doubled up the matting and still have half a roll left. I'll try to post a picture of it this weekend. I have to go find the picture.

  8. #18

    Default

    Thanks everyone for the input. I have my design figured out, now to start ordering.

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